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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1932 Ford Discussion / starter grounding and dont know where to go

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ford38v8
03-20-2021 @ 5:42 PM
Senior
Posts: 2472
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Don, the Bendix is mechanical, actuated by centrifugal force, nothing electrical. The only electrical connection is the negative charged cable from the solenoid, and the positive charged mounting plate the starter bolts onto, which must not have been painted. Back to the jamming problem, the forward end of the starter should have a clip from the mounting bolt to the nearest pan bolt to prevent torqueing out of position. The grounding of the cable as you connect it to the starter indicates a solenoid issue, as it should not be hot until you hit the starter button.
As fir getting a new starter, do not buy a cr*ppy new one, there are plenty of good original starters available
Alan

This message was edited by ford38v8 on 3-20-21 @ 5:46 PM

ford38v8
03-20-2021 @ 6:01 PM
Senior
Posts: 2472
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Don, your dropping voltage low while cranking is to be expected, as the starter takes so much, but perhaps not that low, so maybe you did fail to clean off the paint from the mounting surface?

Alan

materguru
03-21-2021 @ 11:20 AM
Member
Posts: 21
Joined: May 2017
          
no Alan, paint is clean as a whistle around the mounting area and the area on the oil pan and the bracket. basically why would or what would make the stud on the starter cable mount to be positive ground when I bolt the starter to the motor. the cable is negative before it goes on the starter. i have tested the starter stud to see polarity and its negative or grounded when starter is mounted. If you know where i can get a good original starter let me know please
thanks

carcrazy
03-21-2021 @ 12:47 PM
Senior
Posts: 913
Joined: Oct 2009
          
You can take your starter to a good local motor or generator rebuilder and have it rebuilt. This will probably be more expensive than buying a new starter but you will be staying with the original Ford part.

Rockfla
03-23-2021 @ 6:58 AM
Member
Posts: 12
Joined: Mar 2019
          
To start with you never responded to the previous question about battery cable size as you must remember that yes its only 6 volts BUT 6 volt systems use TWICE the amps SO you need a "O" size wire to handle the amps of your system. Common mistake is "most" people install 12V battery cables. SECOND IS have you "tested your 6V battery with a hydrometer and tested each cell of your battery??? It is possible to test them with a V/O meter and still read 6.3 Volts and have a dead or "almost" dead cell THUS cause the "slow" to "no" starter issue you are having!!! Third have you checked and cleaned ALL of your ground straps???? These would be the "FIRST" three things on your checkoff list!!!!

TomO
03-24-2021 @ 8:59 AM
Senior
Posts: 6579
Joined: Oct 2009
          
To find the cause of the slow cranking, try this:

Remove all spark plug to reduce the load.

Connect your voltmeter across the battery terminals and crank the engine with the starter and the ignition off. Meter should read 5.5 Volts or higher. A lower reading indicates a battery not at full charge.

Reading OK: Connect your COM lead to the Neg battery terminal and the + lead to the starter terminal. Crank the engine with the starter and the ignition off. Meter should read 0.3 Volts. A higher reading indicates high resistance in the circuit from the battery.

Reading OK : Connect the COM lead of the meter to the case of the starter and the + lead to the POS post of the battery. Repeat cranking test. Meter should read 0.1 or lower. A higher reading indicates high resistance in the grounding circuit.

Reading OK: remove starter and have it checked for rear bushing side play, worn brushes, shorted armature, shorted or incorrect field coils (12 volt field instead of 6 volt)

To fix the failure to disengage from the fly wheel:
Check that you have the correct Bendix drive, that the spring is in good condition, that the spiral track is clean and dry from grease and dirt and that the starter shaft is not bent from trying to start with 12 volts.

Tom

40 Coupe
03-26-2021 @ 5:00 AM
Senior
Posts: 1301
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I suspect your battery is bad and unable to put out enough current to turn a 6V starter. Charge the battery fully and then take it to an auto parts store to have it's output checked. You can not do this at home by checking just the voltage. The amount of amperage the battery can supply is also important that is why the battery is rated by CCA (Cold Cranking Amps)

37RAGTOPMAN
04-26-2021 @ 8:04 AM
Senior
Posts: 1589
Joined: Oct 2009
          
IF you get it running, have everything ready to have it run for a while ,gas~ oil~ water
maybe a hour or more,
if it starts to overheat shut it off let it cool, when cool do it over again, till it starts easier,
monitor the temp and oil pressure,
it sounds like it needs to be broke in,
if you want to do the break in with out moving the car, used a house cooling fan on the radiator
and be sure to do it with a exhaust hose on it if in the garage,
FORD used electric motors to break in the motors, in a stationary engine stand,
when the electric draw on the motors went down to a certain point, the motor was broke in,
if you need the starter rebuilt, I used CERTIFIED AUTO ELECTRIC, 6vto12v@gmail.com 440 439 1100
new old stock USA made STARTER DRIVES, just like originals and also have high torque field coils,
my 2 cents 37Ragtopman

This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 4-26-21 @ 1:15 PM

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