Post to the EFV-8 Forum
Post Classified Ads
Shop the Online Store

User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Anyone put tube shocks and/or sway bars on stock '

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion

<< previous || next >>

Posted By

Discussion Topic: Anyone put tube shocks and/or sway bars on stock ' -- page: 1 2

kkeyser

11-17-2013 @ 3:52 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Jan 2010

I've got a stock, restored '36 Ford Phaeton. The stock Houdaille shocks are in need of rebuild or replacement. Sending out for rebuilding is not only pricey, but from what I've heard, not necessarily guaranteed to be returned not leaking. Alternative might be converting to tube shocks and sway bars to improve ride and stability. Has anyone done this on a '36? I'd prefer a bolt-on solution so as not to disrupt the integrity of the stock chassis. It looks like Drake, Chassis Engineering, etc. offer a bolt-on solution for the front. Anyone done this?? How about the rear? With the stock '36 rear axle/radius rods/backing plates (juice brakes BTW), it doesn't appear a bolt-on rear shock set up is available. Anyone found a good solution to adapt rear tubes shocks to the stock axle set up? Ultimately, has anyone found the ride improved after installing tube shocks?? How about sway bars??
Thanks!

40 Coupe

11-18-2013 @ 4:55 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1649
Joined: Oct 2009

In my opinion the change over to the tube shock is a major modification to the 36 chassis and the ride. I have used Bill Wzorek to rebuild a couple of shock pairs for me without any problems or leaks. See the fordbarn.com web site for his contact info. The ride is better with the original shocks. Although the initial price of the rebuild is slightly high it will pay off in the resale of the vehicle.
By the way your car is beautiful.

This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 11-18-13 @ 4:56 AM

TomO

11-18-2013 @ 8:45 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7244
Joined: Oct 2009

I agree with 40 Coupe about keeping the original shocks. The tube shocks are not better than the original one, just cheaper.I had the ones on my 40 rebuilt in 1977 and they are still working as designed. Unfortunately the rebuilder that I used in no longer in business.

I don't know of any way to install a sway bar that would not require drilling holes in your frame. The 36 will handle fairly well with the rebuilt shocks.

I also like you car.

Tom

mikecnc

11-18-2013 @ 1:47 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 21
Joined: Mar 2011

I have a '35 Deluxe Tudor Sedan that I installed front and rear tube shocks on during restoration. I wrestled with the same issue, rebuild the Houdaille shocks or install tube shocks, since I had several RG members tell me that rebuilding was expensive and they will leak again anyway. I purchased the fronts from
Chassis Engineering and the towers were easy to install, but required drilling holes in the frame and the lower mounts required replacing the original Ford spring perches with the supplied units. The rears were purchased from Joe Smith in Atlanta, GA. I saw their rear shocks installed on a '35 or '36 coupe owned by Jack Rousch which was entered in the Great Race. The lower mounts are welded to the rear axle housing and are adjustable and the upper mounts are bolts thru the shock eye that attach thru holes drilled in the front side of the cross member. Detailed installation instructions are included by both vendors. My car is a driver that is entered in Touring Class at National Meets. I am very satisfied with the ride and stability of the car on curves and turns; I believe these shocks, especially the rear, eliminate the need for sway bars.

trjford8

11-18-2013 @ 4:36 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 4203
Joined: Oct 2009

Check e-Bay and with C and G Parts. There are some bolt-on rear units that are copies of the rear 48 Ford units. No welding, just bolt-on. c and G will also have the front units.

Stroker

11-18-2013 @ 5:25 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009

Years; (55) ago, I "upgraded" my 38 wagon with tube shocks all around. The only holes I had to drill were in the back side of the rear cross member, as the front brackets mounted up to the frame using the original lever mount bolt holes. I ran really stiff, big-bore 50/50 aftermarket Gabriel "Silver E's" off of a 50's Cadillac on the back, and indeed, it acted like an anti-sway bar. I was happy, and it drove really well.

In later years,(70's) I decided that I wanted to make the car more "original", and at that time, I was able to find NOS levers.

In retrospect, I believe that at least in the rear, the steeply-angled tubes did substantially reduce initial "turn-in" body roll; [realizing that a wagon presents far more "dirty" aerodynamically-speaking]side area than a phaeton). In the front, I believe the only advantage is cost, and ease of replacement. Having said this, I believe they look like cr*p, and in my humble opinion, detract from the vintage "ambiance" of an early Ford chassis.

Unless you live where you are bucking severe cross-winds and you are in a big hurry to "commute", I cannot see any logical, compelling reason to make the switch.

Drbrown

11-18-2013 @ 6:35 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 563
Joined: Nov 2013

I suspect there are probably too many physical differences but if you really wanted tubular shocks, in Mid-1947 Ford started producing cars with tubular shocks on the rear, attached to simple brackets welded to the right and left axle housings. My Ford has such. I understand you would want bolt-on brackets for ease and simplicity but a late '47 would at least offer you a model as to how to construct and attach tubular shocks on the rear.

For whatever reason, at least for that year, Ford retained the traditional arm & hammer shocks on the front, probable because of limited space. Too bad .... as the majoriety of weight up there would probably have been better controlled using tubulars. Maybe my front's are soft but my coupe corners like old ironsides under full sail using a 4 foot diameter steering wheel.

Regardless, bottom line for me .... if you can get good-rebuilds on stock components for an item like this, I would vote to stay with them.

This message was edited by Drbrown on 11-18-13 @ 6:41 PM

wmsteed

11-19-2013 @ 9:28 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 606
Joined: Oct 2009

I changed the front shocks on my '36 to tube shocks in 1952 when I converted the brakes to hydraulic.. reason being availability and cost..
In 1954 I replaced the original engine with a well built 59AB engine. In '55 I replaced the original Columbia with a '47-48 unit, blended into my original center section and drive line..
In 1955 I also changed the front axle to a '41 dropped 2" and changed the steering gears to a '40 unit. I added sway bars and anti roll stabilizer bars..
I have driven the car 94k in the 61 years I have owed it.. Would I go back to stock? I have thought about it from time to time, doubt I'll ever do it.
Would I suggest that kkeyser convert his '36 Phaeton to tube shock... Not in a New York minute.. There are several very good re-builders of stock lever action shocks...

Bill
36 5 win delx cpe

CaliforniaBorn36

11-19-2013 @ 12:58 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 55
Joined: Jan 2013

Over on the FordBarn website, there is a company called Pure Rods
(309) 582-3547 that advertised bolt on rear shock mounts in the Swap section. You may want to take a look if you are set on doing something like that. Let us know the end result, always interested in actual experiences with products and how people solve various issues

CaliforniaBorn36

11-19-2013 @ 1:00 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 55
Joined: Jan 2013

<< previous || next >>

PAGE: 1 2

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

Merchandise Questions

Membership Questions