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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Flathead / carb not holding setting?

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Discussion Topic: Flathead / carb not holding setting?

41SuperDeluxe

07-22-2012 @ 12:21 PM

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I have a situation on my stock spec 41 Flathead 221 cid engine with factory intake manifold and a Stromberg 97 2 bbl carb –

I replaced the distributor ( just rebuilt by Bubba’s ) , new coil, new caps, plug wires, plugs ( gapped at .025 ). The car also has a new fuel tank and all lines.

This performance issue started after I added a full tank of fuel.

Prior to the fuel fill up and right after I installed the above items – the car ran strongly with good throttle response.

After the above items were installed onto the engine, I adjusted the single Stromberg 97 carb ( scr*w*d in the idle mix screws, backed out 2 turns, started car – the scr*w*d the mix screws in ¼ turn at a time till it ran rougher – then backed out until smooth idle ) After the carb adjustments, the engine sounded good and had typical flathead performance ( that is it pulled strong and smoothly ) I ran the car about 45 minutes and came home, happy with the engines performance.

Next day I added went for a 45 minute ride then stopped for fuel, adding a full tank of fuel mentioned above - upon starting the car at the gas station, and driving it – the engine seemed to loose some power and response when modulating the throttle pedal. I heard a pop out of the exhaust a few times.

I again tried to readjust the Stromberg 97 carb – same performance as above… initially very good performance then looses power and responsiveness.

*** I ran a vacuum test and found the needle to be at 16/17 (it fluttered between 16 and 17 inches)

The car starts really well every time (even after the strange lose of power / responsiveness)

* One thing I did notice is there was some occasional fuel pulsing into the glass fuel bowl – noticed by small bubbles – this was not constant.

I am wondering if the carb is worn and not holding its settings… any ideas??

Thanks
John

This message was edited by 41SuperDeluxe on 7-22-12 @ 12:22 PM

carcrazy

07-22-2012 @ 1:05 PM

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I suspect you have some sort of an ignition problem. A rule of thumb for spark ignition engines is that one out of ten times the problem will be with the fuel system, the other nine times it is with the ignition system. From your description of the problem which gets worse with time I would suspect either the coil or the condenser is starting to fail. How hot is the engine getting when you notice the problem?

supereal

07-22-2012 @ 1:10 PM

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As your problem started with the most recent gas fill up, I'd suspect you got a bad batch of fuel, not a rare problem. It could be water, diesel, even liquid fertilizer. We have seen them all. Before you start changing things, I'd replace the fuel. Otherwise you run the risk of burying the real cause.

41SuperDeluxe

07-22-2012 @ 2:08 PM

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The ign coil is brand new from Mac VanPelt ( think it is a Skip Haney rebuilt unit ) - as is the resisitor - probably only 60 miles on these. Will change out the fuel and see - will report out.

John

Old Henry

07-22-2012 @ 8:44 PM

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Sounds like the accelerator pump in the carburetor. Look down into the carburetor while deflecting the throttle and see if you get an immediate stream of gas out of the two nozzles. Mine acted like that until I took the pump out and spread the leather out to seal in the tube. (Of course you could replace it but I just tried spreading it back out and it's working fine now.)

Those idle adjustment needles only adjust the fuel mixture at idle and have no effect on any open throttle position so that would not likely be the problem or the cure.

Old Henry
(The older I get, the better old looks.)

This message was edited by Old Henry on 7-22-12 @ 8:46 PM

TomO

07-23-2012 @ 7:44 AM

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A new part is not always a good part.

I would check the spark just to make sure that it is not an ignition problem.

Next, I would do a fuel delivery test.

To check fuel delivery, you need a graduated 16 ounce or larger container to determine the amount of fuel delivered in a measured time. Disconnect the fuel pump line from the carburetor and direct it into a graduated container. Crank the engine long enough to get 2 ounces of gas in the container and then continue cranking for 15 more strokes of the pump. The pump should have delivered 6 more ounces of gas.

If your car fails the fuel delivery test, look for debris in the fuel tank, plugged fuel line from the tank to the firewall, flex line that is collapsing internally or a vacuum leak on the input to the fuel pump.

My guess is that when you filled the tank, debris in the tank was disturbed and is plugging either the pickup or the line. To clear the line, Jack the car up on the left side to allow the fuel line to be disconnected. Disconnect the fuel line at both ends and direct the tank end into a container. Use compressed air to blow from the firewall end of the line and clear it out.

Tom

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