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Discussion Topic:
1936 Ford Gas Tank removal
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Henryat1140 |
09-25-2012 @ 6:12 AM
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New Member
Posts: 110
Joined: Nov 2009
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Two thoughts on this process. 1. I borrowed a special wrench used to adjust Harley Davidson rear shocks. This was a common item because everyone needed it up till about the 70's somewhere. It is a spanner, but very beefy. Any Old Harley Nut in your area will likely have one. 2. I recommend when assembling the filler neck and lead washers you liberally lubricate the threads. We used neverseize, and didn't use a lot, in retrospect I would have used more and really made sure the threads were well coated. The assembly drew up but the last couple of swings on the spanner were tough, so don't be afraid to use lots of lubricant when reassembling. Red Cote is the current favorite for coating. Good Luck Henry
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trjford8 |
09-24-2012 @ 7:49 PM
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Senior
Posts: 4203
Joined: Oct 2009
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Tim, take a look at a sealer called Red Kote. It will apparently work with any type of fuel. If you find another brand be sure it will stand up to ethanol.
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DEAN333 |
09-24-2012 @ 6:03 PM
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Member
Posts: 248
Joined: May 2012
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Do you have a product name/recommendation for the sealer?
TIM CARLIG
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DEAN333 |
09-23-2012 @ 5:10 PM
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Member
Posts: 248
Joined: May 2012
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Everything came apart incredibly easy. I just took the taillamp loose and the neck came right out. Thanks for the tip.
TIM CARLIG
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supereal |
09-23-2012 @ 11:20 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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C&G has the lead seal 48-9031, about five bucks. 800/266-0470. It was used 35-37.
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trjford8 |
09-23-2012 @ 7:34 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4203
Joined: Oct 2009
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You can get the new lead seal from Drake or other V-8 vendors. It is recommended to put the seal in and use a small amount of gas tank sealer to help seal the neck to the lead gasket. You should take off the left rear fender to remove the neck. It makes it much easier and eliminates the chance of slipping off with the wrench and damaging a rear fender.
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DEAN333 |
09-22-2012 @ 5:19 PM
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Member
Posts: 248
Joined: May 2012
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Bought the spanner wrench from Sears that Ken 36 recommended for 12 bucks. Soaked the filler tube for 3 days with daily sprays of PB Blaster penetrant. Used the spanner wrench today with 3 LIGHT taps from a mallet wrench and the lock ring started turning. The tube came right out!! Had the tank out 50 minutes later. Isn't there supposed to be a seal on the filler tube at the tank or does it seal just by tightening? With all the horror stories I read here from guys having to cut the tube off, I feel so blessed.
TIM CARLIG
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Billc |
10-16-2011 @ 5:14 AM
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Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Jan 2010
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I had the same trouble getting my tank out. The trick was one of those vise grips with a chain and a cheater bar. The bar had an angle in it, ell shape, so the vise grip could point down and give it room to turn. Can't say it came right off but it was pulling not banging that did it. Put it back on the same way. Good luck Bill
36 pickup 47 COE
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51f1 |
10-15-2011 @ 12:21 PM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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Don't be afraid of heat if you follow watwasithinking's method. If you fill the tank with water (after flushing),the water in the tank will displace any gas, and, with no gas, there will be no danger. Or you can hire a chemist (a NFPA certified marine chemist will do) to certify that the tank is "gas free." That is standard procedure in industry and in the military. They use a meter with a probe. And they charge for this service.
Richard
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1936TWC |
10-15-2011 @ 11:12 AM
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Member
Posts: 82
Joined: Oct 2009
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After multiple applications of KROIL, i cannot remove the fillier tube from my gas tank. I am very aware of safety hazards of applying heat to the fitting, so I am considering cuttimg the filler tube. Any insights on this would be appreciated. Thanks. When you rotated the filler tube down, was the fender off?
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