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Discussion Topic:
Bad starter?
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pauls39coupe |
05-26-2025 @ 5:56 PM
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Member
Posts: 247
Joined: Jul 2014
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Gary, one more point if you are using EI ditch the solid wire spark plug wires. They will fry the EI. Use later carbon core wires, Paul
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hotroddoc |
05-24-2025 @ 1:32 PM
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Member
Posts: 40
Joined: Mar 2019
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Thank you everyone for your hip. I am having my 6V starter converted to. 12V by a local shop. Meanwhile, I am using my spare 6V starter. It is now so easy to start- especially with the new electronic ignition! Best, Gary
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pauls39coupe |
05-23-2025 @ 7:34 AM
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Member
Posts: 247
Joined: Jul 2014
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Glad you solved the problem and thanks for letting us know. Yes I would have your original Ford starter rebuilt for 12v. Beware of some of the foreign made 12v starters. Read the customer comments before spending your $$$.
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carcrazy |
05-22-2025 @ 7:20 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1976
Joined: Oct 2009
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Yes, install a 12V starter to avoid having problems in the future. You can have your 6V starter converted to a 12V unit by having 12V field coils installed by a competent starter repair shop.
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hotroddoc |
05-22-2025 @ 3:04 PM
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Member
Posts: 40
Joined: Mar 2019
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Update: I decided to remove and take apart the floor switch. I cleaned all of the copper surfaces and carefully reassembled the unit. I reconnected the battery and starter cables. It now works like a charm! The 6V starter spins so much faster than before. New question- should I install a 12V starter? Appreciate the help and advice. Gary
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hotroddoc |
05-13-2025 @ 4:53 PM
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Member
Posts: 40
Joined: Mar 2019
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I believe that my wiring is correct. I will double check it. I did receive a starter solenoid as part of the 12 volt conversion kit. I may try to install it to see if that solves the problem. If not, I will order a new floor switch. I think that the inside of the floor switch is made of a non conductive material. I will check on that as well. Thanks for your input
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pauls39coupe |
05-13-2025 @ 7:37 AM
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Member
Posts: 247
Joined: Jul 2014
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I would keep the 36 style switch. It is simple as an anvil and nearly as strong. Changing to a push button opens up a new can of worms, especially going to 12v. Paul
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pauls39coupe |
05-12-2025 @ 8:36 PM
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Member
Posts: 247
Joined: Jul 2014
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Per the 1936 Electric Diagram you should have a yellow wire attached to the battery side of the switch on top of the battery cable. This will run power to the ammeter, then to the fuse block and on to the ignition. The lights have a another wire running from the fused side of the block. The wire leading from the starter side of the switch should only go to the starter. Be sure the cable ends are not touching any part of the switch other than the lugs. If the above is correct I suspect you have a bad starter switch. Is the starter side lug touching the side of the switch? From your photo it looks like the one contact is twisted maybe contacting the inside of the switch housing. Check to be sure there is no continuity between the lug and the case of the switch. If you still have an ammeter you will need to reverse the direction the wire passes through the loupe at the back of the meter to get it to read correctly. Let us know what happens. Paul
This message was edited by pauls39coupe on 5-12-25 @ 8:39 PM
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hotroddoc |
05-12-2025 @ 2:23 PM
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Member
Posts: 40
Joined: Mar 2019
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I am picking up the power for the lights from the battery side of the ignition switch. I disconnected the starter cable from the switch and it still sparks when I depress the starter switch. So, bad switch? Should I just install a starter solenoid and starter button? It would probably be a safer option I just took the starter switch apart. The battery contact is very dirty. Perhaps that is the source of the sparks. I ran the continuity test on both sides of the switch - no contact with the housing everything is insulated
This message was edited by hotroddoc on 5-12-25 @ 2:38 PM
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pauls39coupe |
05-10-2025 @ 6:59 PM
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Member
Posts: 247
Joined: Jul 2014
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Where are you picking up power for the lights and ignition if not from the battery cable side of the starter switch? Paul
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