| hotroddoc | -- 05-04-2025 @ 3:05 PM |
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Hello, I am almost complete in converting my 36 coupe from 6-12volts. When I try to start the engine, the starter shorts. When I use my voltmeter as a continuity tester, the starter housing tests positive for ground AND the lug ( without the starter cable connected) also tests positive for ground.. Is the starter bad? Did I do something wrong? I welcome your comments. Thanks, Gary This message was edited by hotroddoc on 5-4-25 @ 3:22 PM
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| carcrazy | -- 05-04-2025 @ 4:32 PM |
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Your starter must have an internal short. Take it off of the engine and take it apart to see what is causing the short. It could be something simple like an insulating washer between the starter terminal and the starter case broken or missing.
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| hotroddoc | -- 05-04-2025 @ 5:59 PM |
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Thank you. I’ll look into that
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| JayChicago | -- 05-05-2025 @ 3:02 PM |
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Wouldn’t even good motor, no short, show continuity thru the motor with a continuity tester?
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| DanD32 | -- 05-06-2025 @ 4:56 AM |
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Yes
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| hotroddoc | -- 05-06-2025 @ 7:32 AM |
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How can that be? Isn't the lug insulated from the housing?
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| 40 Coupe | -- 05-07-2025 @ 4:30 AM |
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What your seeing is correct for a good starter. the ground voltage will pass through the windings and appear at the stud. If the windings were open circuit there would be no voltage at the stud.
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| JayChicago | -- 05-07-2025 @ 8:51 AM |
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The lug is insulated from the case but then is connected to the starter's internal components. There has to be an electrical continuity thru the motor to ground in order for the motor to function.
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| jerry_356 | -- 05-07-2025 @ 1:00 PM |
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To test a starter one method is to disassemble and use a growler to determine if the armature is defective or not. The field coils can be tested for continuity and resistance.
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| pauls39coupe | -- 05-08-2025 @ 6:47 PM |
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You may have a bad starter button. As I recall 1936 ford used a floor mounted switch which contains a big copper bar that jumps between the battery power wire (positive in your case) to the wire going to the starter. Try disconnecting the wire from the starter, insulate it then hit the starter button. If you still get sparks that eliminates the starter as the problem. Look for a short in the wire going to the starter, possibly at the clamp that holds it to the engine block or a bad switch. Let us know what you find. Paul
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| hotroddoc | -- 05-09-2025 @ 3:30 PM |
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Hello Paul, I did disconnect the cable from the starter. When I depressed the floor starter button it sparks. So, the problem seems to be with the floor switch. It had been working fine before I made the conversion.. I did change the polarity (now negative ground). Would that cause the short?
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| pauls39coupe | -- 05-09-2025 @ 7:29 PM |
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Polarity should not make any difference. I assume you have the positive wire from the battery going to the starter switch. Are there other wires hooked to that terminal? You should have just the starter wire hooked to the other side. Look at the switch. Is the wire going to the starter touching the housing of the switch? Does that wire have any breaks in the insulation. Disconnect the wire from the switch and if it still sparks the switch is bad. If it does NOT spark look for a problem with the wire.
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| hotroddoc | -- 05-10-2025 @ 5:15 PM |
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Just the starter wire is hooked up to the other side of the switch. The wire is in good condition and had been working fine before. I will disconnect it and test the switch on Monday. Thanks
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| pauls39coupe | -- 05-10-2025 @ 6:59 PM |
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Where are you picking up power for the lights and ignition if not from the battery cable side of the starter switch? Paul
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| hotroddoc | -- 05-12-2025 @ 2:23 PM |
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I am picking up the power for the lights from the battery side of the ignition switch. I disconnected the starter cable from the switch and it still sparks when I depress the starter switch. So, bad switch? Should I just install a starter solenoid and starter button? It would probably be a safer option I just took the starter switch apart. The battery contact is very dirty. Perhaps that is the source of the sparks. I ran the continuity test on both sides of the switch - no contact with the housing everything is insulated This message was edited by hotroddoc on 5-12-25 @ 2:38 PM
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| pauls39coupe | -- 05-12-2025 @ 8:36 PM |
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Per the 1936 Electric Diagram you should have a yellow wire attached to the battery side of the switch on top of the battery cable. This will run power to the ammeter, then to the fuse block and on to the ignition. The lights have a another wire running from the fused side of the block. The wire leading from the starter side of the switch should only go to the starter. Be sure the cable ends are not touching any part of the switch other than the lugs. If the above is correct I suspect you have a bad starter switch. Is the starter side lug touching the side of the switch? From your photo it looks like the one contact is twisted maybe contacting the inside of the switch housing. Check to be sure there is no continuity between the lug and the case of the switch. If you still have an ammeter you will need to reverse the direction the wire passes through the loupe at the back of the meter to get it to read correctly. Let us know what happens. Paul This message was edited by pauls39coupe on 5-12-25 @ 8:39 PM
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| pauls39coupe | -- 05-13-2025 @ 7:37 AM |
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I would keep the 36 style switch. It is simple as an anvil and nearly as strong. Changing to a push button opens up a new can of worms, especially going to 12v. Paul
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| hotroddoc | -- 05-13-2025 @ 4:53 PM |
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I believe that my wiring is correct. I will double check it. I did receive a starter solenoid as part of the 12 volt conversion kit. I may try to install it to see if that solves the problem. If not, I will order a new floor switch. I think that the inside of the floor switch is made of a non conductive material. I will check on that as well. Thanks for your input
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| hotroddoc | -- 05-22-2025 @ 3:04 PM |
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Update: I decided to remove and take apart the floor switch. I cleaned all of the copper surfaces and carefully reassembled the unit. I reconnected the battery and starter cables. It now works like a charm! The 6V starter spins so much faster than before. New question- should I install a 12V starter? Appreciate the help and advice. Gary
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| carcrazy | -- 05-22-2025 @ 7:20 PM |
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Yes, install a 12V starter to avoid having problems in the future. You can have your 6V starter converted to a 12V unit by having 12V field coils installed by a competent starter repair shop.
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| pauls39coupe | -- 05-23-2025 @ 7:34 AM |
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Glad you solved the problem and thanks for letting us know. Yes I would have your original Ford starter rebuilt for 12v. Beware of some of the foreign made 12v starters. Read the customer comments before spending your $$$.
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| hotroddoc | -- 05-24-2025 @ 1:32 PM |
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Thank you everyone for your hip. I am having my 6V starter converted to. 12V by a local shop. Meanwhile, I am using my spare 6V starter. It is now so easy to start- especially with the new electronic ignition! Best, Gary
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| pauls39coupe | -- 05-26-2025 @ 5:56 PM |
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Gary, one more point if you are using EI ditch the solid wire spark plug wires. They will fry the EI. Use later carbon core wires, Paul
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