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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Alternator or generator?

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hotroddoc

03-17-2025 @ 1:13 PM

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Hello,
I am in the process of converting my 36 Coupe from 6 to 12 volt. I have a decision to make. I can have my existing 3 wire generator converted to 12V and keep the stock look OR install a PowerGen one Wire alternator.

What do you think?

Thanks,
Gary

carcrazy

03-17-2025 @ 2:21 PM

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Provided you don't mind having a non-Ford alternator under your hood, the least expensive and possibly the best alternator to use is a General Motors 10SI series alternator. They were standard on all GM cars and trucks built from 1973 through 1985. They feature a built-in solid state voltage regulator, simple two wire connection and 60 amp output.

Because an alternator has a current output at idle and low RPM where the generator did not, the engine may continue to run after the ignition switch is turned off. This output current travels backward through the ignition switch to the ignition coil allowing the engine to keep running.

If you want to keep your original ignition switch, you can install a DA Plug which contains a diode to prevent the backward flow of current through the ignition system. The engine will now shut down when you turn off the original ignition switch.

51woodie

03-19-2025 @ 5:57 AM

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I installed a PowerGen 6V + ground alternator on the 59AB in my '46 Coupe, and have over 9000 miles since it was installed. I've had no problems with "run on" or charging issues.

trjford8

03-19-2025 @ 7:12 AM

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If your stock fan is on the current generator then you need to convert your generator to an alternator. That also maintains the stock mounting.

carcrazy

03-19-2025 @ 2:11 PM

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Once you have installed an alternator, you will be able to install an electric fan on the engine side of the radiator and eliminate your original generator-mounted fan all together. One advantage of the electric fan is that it only draws power when it is needed.

fenbach

03-19-2025 @ 4:40 PM

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I have a PowerGen 6-volt positive ground alternator on my '36. It came with a 2nd pulley with mounting holes for a stock fan. But I seem to remember reading that the alternator bearings might not hold up to the extra force from the fan. I use an electric fan. It's a tight fit behind the radiator, but I also read that it cools more effectively pulling than pushing.
I put in a temperature sensitive Wells SW508 switch in my '36. It grounds the fan when it closes. go to http://www.wellsve.com/parts/ And search for sw508. the M16 x 1.5 Metric threads match the temp gauge hole exactly. It closes at 199ºF, then opens at 181ºF. Normally Open. I put a solenoid in having apparently burnt out a previous temperature sensitive switch. I seem to remember that Autozone sells the SW508.
Check out this thread. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=16437&keywords=

kirkstad

03-19-2025 @ 6:16 PM

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I installed a one wire 6 volt alternator with an internal regulator on my stock 36 many years ago. I was able to modify a fiberglass fan to fit, due to the weight of my stock fan. The system worked great. Later, when they came out with a regulator that looks like a stock cut out for the generator, I put my stock generator back on. When you get it set up properly you will not have to move the third brush to adjust the charge for different driving conditions. I never really liked the look of the alternator. I'm aware now that they have alternators that look like generators, but very costly.

ndnchf

03-20-2025 @ 1:14 PM

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This discussion is timely. Today I finished two 1933-1837 generators. Both are 12 volt negative ground 2-brush conversions. They have "B" circuit field wiring, intended to be used with a 1955-1964 Ford 12v regulator. They cannont match the current output of an alternator. But for someone who wants a 12v system that can stil run the pulley mounted fan, this type of set up is a good choice. BTW, I use a sealed double row, angular contact bearing with custom machined spacers. These are designed to take both thrust and radial loads. Others often just use 2 radial bearings and call it good.

I'll have these and other restored Ford generators at the Charlotte Auto Fair in two weeks.
Steve

Drbrown

03-21-2025 @ 8:31 AM

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My '47 came 12v with the 55 amp 10SI GM alternator mentioned. Always worked fine; no feed-back. As to electric cooling fans: As some who spend any time in first gear with this Tranny's high RPM's probably knows, the stock engine fan makes an annoying amount of noise, at least to my liking. So tried name-brand electric fan and up-graded to an 80 amp GM alternator. That resolved the electrical adequacy issue but regardless of whether installed as a pusher or puller, it was inadequate for cooling the engine in summer time stop and go traffic. I'm back to a stock fan and happy.

With my car I found that the fan edge is too far away from the inside face of the radiator to constantly suck air thru the radiator. If the car is not moving the fan just thrashes the engine compartment air around. The radiator is new, the pumps are fine and use 160 deg stats. Now I avoid stay out of stop-n-go traffic. By the 1970's modern cars addressed that "gap" issue and reduce radiator sizes by have inside bonnets between the radiator and fan. For us, using careful measurements, these can be fabricated by a sheet metal worker (ductwork fabricator) in two pieces to fit one's needs.

This message was edited by Drbrown on 3-21-25 @ 9:06 AM

carcrazy

03-21-2025 @ 2:26 PM

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Here is the fan I will be using on my V8-60 powered Crosley. As you can see the 14" diameter electric fan is mounted near the top of the radiator as a puller to maximize cooling efficiency. Notice the steel brackets used to mount the fan assembly.

This message was edited by carcrazy on 3-21-25 @ 2:32 PM

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