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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1932 to 1936 Engine seria number ranges.

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1932 to 1936 Engine seria number ranges.     1934 Ford 07-07-2022 @ 8:14 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 568 Joined: Oct 2009 My spare 21 stud engine is a mystery to me. It's not maked LB but I don't know what year it is. The serial # range for 33, 34,35 & 36 is listed in the 1933-34 Book, but the engines didn't have numbers and i didn't get the transmission with it. Where to look to identify the year? I drove it in a 32 Ford 5 Window Coupe but that's not where it began it's life. I know it's 60/1000 over bore, measures 3 1/8, a Montgomery Wards overhaul tag from 10,000 miles ago (When it was in the 32 in 1961.) I think it needs a sleave in #4. Was a nice running V8 when got it 25 years ago.. But it sat to long If I can identify it, I think I'll sell it . This message was edited by 1934 Ford on 7-7-22 @ 8:30 AM 3w2 07-07-2022 @ 11:56 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 824 Joined: Oct 2009 Three things to narrow it down short of pulling engine to remove the oil pan are: the location of the drain cocks on the cylinder block, part numbers on the heads, if any, and the presence or absence of a breather pipe on the right front corner of the oil pan. Share that information and we can pretty much tell you which model year it is from. . 1934 Ford 07-07-2022 @ 1:12 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 568 Joined: Oct 2009 I have not had the oil pan off yet. The heads are after market replacement heads dated 1949, still part numbered with a 40#. None of my cars (1934's) including this engine don't have a down draft tube. If I took the pan off, what would I be looking for? to indicate YOM. 1934 Ford's since 1972 This message was edited by 1934 Ford on 7-7-22 @ 1:34 PM Carcheologist 07-07-2022 @ 6:13 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 128 Joined: Jan 2016 Check out Mac VanPelt's website. It should have the info you need to ID your engine. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/index.htm CharlieStephens 07-07-2022 @ 7:19 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 882 Joined: Oct 2009 The following is what I use to identify the flatheads. If any one has corrections I would sincerely appreciate them. 1) If there are 17 studs it is a V8 60 used in vehicles between 1937 and 1940. This engine was also used in the French built Simca in the sixties but I don’t know what occurred between these two periods. Look for casting numbers and stamped steel water jackets in the side of the block. Post what you find and someone can probably further identify the engine. 2) If there are 21 studs the block was built 1932 to 1938. The transition to 24 studs was late in 1938. Check the water petcocks on the front of the block next to where the lower hose from the radiator enters either an inlet fitting (1936 and earlier) or the water pump (1937 and later). It the petcocks point straight down it is a 1932 block. If the block is not a 1932 next look for a vent from the crankcase area out through the front corner of the oil pan. If there is no vent the block is 1933-34. If there is a vent it is 1935 or later. As a matter of interest, the 1936 engines were the first to use insert bearings. Both insert and babbitt bearings were used throughout 1936. The insert bearing engines can be identified by LB cast at the top of the left front face of the block or by the letters LB stamped into the surface where the intake manifold attaches. Some engines were not stamped and in other cases people tried to inflate the price of their blocks by stamping LB into them when they were sold. Be careful. Now check for the location of the water pumps. If the water pumps mount on the block the engine is 1937 or later. All engines beginning in 1937 were inserts. Frequently you will encounter a 1937 block with factory block off plates held on by two bolts over the water pump passage at the front of the block as it was common for Ford dealers to install this engine as a replacement in the earlier cars. Of course there will be slight transition periods at model change over with the older blocks usually going into the commercial vehicles. There may be subtle differences between the 1933-34 and the 1935-36 engines but I am knowledgeable enough about these years to know what they are. The casting numbers on the flywheel housing will also help identify the exact year of the engine. Post what you find and someone can probably further identify the engine. 3) If there are 24 studs the engine was produced between 1938 and 1953 (1954 in Canada). If the distributor is mounted on the front of the block the engine is late 1938 through 1948 (1947 for trucks). If the distributor comes up at an angle and appears more like a modern distributor it is a 1949 (1948 for truck) through 1953 (1954 in Canada). The casting numbers on the flywheel housing will further identify the exact year of the engine. Post what you find and someone can probably further identify the engine. 4) There are a lot of additional foreign and industrial applications of these engines but the preceding covers the domestic US automobile production. Charlie Stephens 1934 Ford 07-10-2022 @ 7:58 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 568 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks, 29 years ago I drove the 32 5WC with this engine in it. Smooth and quite, a Montgomery Wards Re-built engine in 1961. Same owner for 40 years. I spoke for the engine when he said he was going to put a later flat head in the car. 5 years later he dropped the engine off at my house. I cleaned it & painted it and wrapped it up as a spare for my cars. Occasionally I would turn it over, but mainly it sat on a stand in a plastic bag. 12 years s ago We moved to North Carolina. Before loading the engine for the trip, I tried to turn it over, STUCK, I took the plugs out to oil the cylinders and a big Florida Roach ran out of the #1 hole. I vaccumed the hole an then oiled all the cylinders again, still stuck. Now 12 years later I took the head off and #1 was clean, but #4 was full of rust. I don't know if it can be honed but I think it will probably need to be sleaved in that cylinder. I think I'm to old now to do engine swaps or re-builds, especially when I don't need the engine right now. Suggestions on to do with it ? 1934 Ford's since 1972 This message was edited by 1934 Ford on 7-24-22 @ 3:56 PM

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