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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1937 Ford V8-60

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1937 Ford V8-60

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Jbsf16
06-12-2022 @ 3:21 PM
Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Dec 2021
          
Bought as a gift for my wife. A cool old truck that’s been a work in progress. Any other V8-60 owners out there that I can pick your brain?

carcrazy
06-12-2022 @ 5:00 PM
Senior
Posts: 1975
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Yes!!! I have a V8-60 that is going into a 1947 Crosley CC Sedan.
Ask away.

Jbsf16
06-12-2022 @ 5:47 PM
Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Dec 2021
          
Ok. First standard question. I know they all leak and maybe burn a little oil. Aside from that, what is your standard oil leakage/consumption that you see?

Mine burns very little. Compression is a little weak on one cylinder, otherwise it cranks every time and runs like a top. I’ve had a water pump rebuilt and a front main seal leak repaired, but the engine will easily leak probably a quart every 100-150 miles. The shop says it’s venting normally out the weep hole up front at the bottom of the pan and I’m seeing that also on the cotter pin weep hole. I’m wondering if it’s the rear main seal and if that requires an engine pull….or should I just look at a rebuild? It just seems like an excessive amount.

Is there another oil/vent circulation issue I should consider?

I’ve replaced the oil vent cap with a new one and fill w/4qts.

carcrazy
06-12-2022 @ 9:07 PM
Senior
Posts: 1975
Joined: Oct 2009
          
What year V8-60 engine do you have?

The 1937 to 1939 engines have only a labyrinth "seal" at the rear main bearing. The 1940 engines have a rope seal which is much more effective.

My engine has recently been totally rebuilt and I don't have enough experience with it to tell you about oil leakage or consumption. It has been run on an engine test stand for more than 20 minutes and during that time it burnt or leaked no oil.

The front of the crankshaft has a removable oil slinger which must be installed properly to keep oil from leaking out the front of the engine.

If you are concerned with oil leaking out of the front oil breather hole at the bottom front of the engine, I highly recommend you get a copy of Richard Willim's book, "The V8-60, Ford's Little Powerhouse". Richard published this book in 2006. Unfortunately, he has died since then but his book may still be available through Amazon or other online sources. In the book, he explains different ways to plug off the passage leading to this vent hole.

With the limited running time on my V8-60, coolant leaks are still present at the centers of the water pumps. I am hoping that these leaks will stop once the Bakelite pump impellers have worn-in to provide a better sealing surface with the pump housings.

Jbsf16
06-13-2022 @ 3:35 AM
Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Dec 2021
          
Mine was built in late 1937. It’s not a tinside, those I think had ended pretty early in 1937. My water pump leaked a little too after rebuild, so I bet yours will seal up as well. I’ll look into the book. Did you rebuild yours yourself or have a shop do it. Is there one you’d recommend? I’d like to keep this little piece of history running!

mfirth
06-13-2022 @ 4:47 AM
Member
Posts: 209
Joined: Nov 2017
          
Gift for your wife....that's a good one. Seriously, that is a nice little truck & I like "the 60" !

TomO
06-13-2022 @ 7:38 AM
Senior
Posts: 7385
Joined: Oct 2009
          
That is a sweet ride. Leaking that much oil is not good for the truck or the environment.

I doubt that the oil is coming from the oil pan vent up front. If it is the source of your leak, your oil pan has too much pressure in it. Excessive oil pan pressure is developed if the breather is plugged or worn compression rings allowing blow-by. Remove the oil breather cap and look for oil smoke coming from the breather tube. If you see it, the oil pan has too much pressure.

Another thing to check is make sure that you are not overfilling the oil pan. The capacity for the 60HP engine is 4 quarts.

If the breather is clean and the oil pan pressure are OK, the source of your leak could be the rope seal in the timing gear cover and oil pan. Try one of the newer graphite impregnated seals and install the crank pulley before installing the oil pan and the timing gear cover.


























Tom

JM
06-13-2022 @ 8:50 AM
Senior
Posts: 823
Joined: Oct 2009
          
That's a very nice looking 60hp '37 pickup! I'd love to own one like that. I'm a fan of '35 passenger cars, but when it comes to pickup trucks I definitely prefer the '37 over any other year.
I do own three 60hp flathead engines, two '37-'39 versions and one '40 that was previously used in a hydroplane that was raced on the Delaware River and probably on the Susquehanna River here in Maryland. Very cool little engines that were often pulled and replaced in favor of their more powerful 85hp, bigger brother.
Rich Willam's book on the little 60hp V-8 is very difficult to find a copy of. I was lucky enough to get a autographed copy soon after its printing. His son, Marty Willam has talked about reprinting his dad's book, but so far, unfortunately, that's all it has been is talk. Marty Willam does have a Facebook page that's dedicated to the little 60hp engine, and he does a good job of answering questions that you may have.

John

This message was edited by JM on 6-13-22 @ 9:32 AM

carcrazy
06-13-2022 @ 10:42 AM
Senior
Posts: 1975
Joined: Oct 2009
          
My engine was rebuilt several years ago by an engine rebuilder in Salinas, CA that has since gone out of business. Most of the parts that I used for the rebuild came from Little Dearborn in MN.
My engine was originally manufactured late in March of 1937 so it has the fully cast iron block. It came with the tapered seal 1937 water pumps and front cover which I have replaced with the 1938 and later straight seal water pumps and front cover.
My engine has .030" over pistons and .010" under crank and rod journals.

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