Post to the EFV-8 Forum
Post Classified Ads
Shop the Online Store

User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 37 Phaeton fuel tank pick up

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion

<< previous || next >>

Posted By

Discussion Topic: 37 Phaeton fuel tank pick up

BRL

01-20-2022 @ 12:00 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2021

Hi Guys:
The fuel gauge on my 37 Phaeton (78-750, all original) doesnt work so I thought I would start investigating the fuel tank. I am pretty sure the tank is the original design as it has the 6 screw attachment for the sending unit. I removed the sending unit and it is rusted solid and the float is plastic and falling apart...so this is at least part of the problem. I decided I would drain the tank since there is a convenient drain plug to inspect what the condition of the bottom of the tank may be since this vehicle is new to me, although I have filled the tank recently and it drives fine. This made me start to wonder what the fuel pick up design is on this car...is there a fuel pick up tube with any type of screen inside the tank? Is the pick up tube integral to the tank? Is there any service operation I can do to make sure the pick up inside the tank is not clogged?
Regards,
BRL

37RAGTOPMAN

01-20-2022 @ 2:00 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1939
Joined: Oct 2009

I would remove the gas tank, and have it boiled out by a radiator repair shop and then
use EASTWOODS gas tank cleaner and sealer
this will seal it
but you can try to do it yourself if tank is not that bad,
I have used water and BOX 5/16 steel nuts,[or similar ] and rocked the tank and back and forth TUMBLE it over and over,
keep rinsing the tank out,
once it looks clean, use a magnet and remove the steel nuts,
set in sun to dry it out, then use the EASTWOOD KIT,
do this out side, and have no flames near by
I have done this several times, with great success
hope this helps, 37Ragtopman Maine 78- 760-A

This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 1-25-22 @ 1:47 PM

BRL

01-20-2022 @ 3:26 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2021

Hi again:
After closer inspection of my sending unit, I think it is the original one to the car as it has a K-S logo on the top and is slightly domed as in the 37 Ford Book. I thought the float was plastic because it was thin walled and bright green but I think it is actually brass or copper and the bright green color is the corrosion from many years.
Regards,
BRL

01-20-2022 @ 4:49 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1247
Joined: Nov 2009

See these threads >

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220451&highlight=gas+tank+sending+unit+operation

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165773&highlight=king+seely

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=223723&highlight=gas+tank+sending+unit

trjford8

01-21-2022 @ 7:49 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 4200
Joined: Oct 2009

The pickup tube lays on the bottom of the tank and is attached to the fitting where your regular gas line goes to the front of the car. There is no screen attached to the line in the tank.

TomO

01-21-2022 @ 8:11 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009

"Sending unit is rusted solid and the float is plastic and falling apart...so this is at least part of the problem."

Try soaking the sending unit in Evapo-Rust to remove the rust and free up the mechanism. Make sure that the diaphragm is not rusted through and then you should be able to use the sending unit. If the diaphragm is rusted through, look for another sending unit. You can use the sending unit from any Ford, Lincoln or Mercury from 1936-1955. You will have to modify the arm on sending units later than 1941.

"I decided I would drain the tank since there is a convenient drain plug to inspect what the condition of the bottom of the tank may be since this vehicle is new to me, although I have filled the tank recently and it drives fine. This made me start to wonder what the fuel pick up design is on this car...is there a fuel pick up tube with any type of screen inside the tank? Is the pick up tube integral to the tank? Is there any service operation I can do to make sure the pick up inside the tank is not clogged? "

The pickup tube is part of the outlet fitting and would be difficult to replace. I just use compressed air through the outlet to make sure that it is open. If you haven't been able to open the drain plug, you can try the method that I use: I use a 10" 0r 12" Crescent type adjustable wrench and close it down to the drain plug size. That ususally gives me enough leverage to remove the plug. If that doesn't work, take it to a radiator shop and have them boil the tank out for you.

I have used Bill Hirsch's tank sealer on both of my cars and I like the way that it flows to seal the inside of the tank and protect it from rust. You don't need a thick coating, but I would follow the directions to put the second coat on.

Tom

BRL

01-21-2022 @ 8:25 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2021

Hi Guys:
Thanks for all the good info. So now I have a good understanding of how the OEM fuel indication system works.

Today I will drain the tank to see if I can determine its condition by what comes out...I have a feeling I will be dropping the tank and taking it to my local radiator shop for cleaning. I will treat it with Hirsch's sealer if I have to have the tank cleaned.

I am soaking the fuel sender in CRL right now...when it gets reasonably clean I will try to pry the top off to gauge the condition of the internals. I have contacted a couple of companies that rebuild these things (Bob's Speedometer, Clocks and Gauges-dot-com, Tri-Starr) so I may see if they can rebuild vs buying one for a later model.

I will also do the advised test of my gauge to see if it is OK.

I will advise on this posting how it all turns out.

Regards,
BRL

40 Coupe

01-21-2022 @ 10:29 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1643
Joined: Oct 2009

Suggest you lube the pivot points with penetrating oil and see if you can get the arm with the float to move again. Liquid toilet bowl cleaner can clean brass very quickly. Since the outside portion of the sender is electrical avoid any liquids in this area. Replacement floats are available. If you get the arm to move you can test operation outside the tank by adding a jumper from a good ground point to the metal case of the sender and a second jumper from the wire to the center top terminal.

TomO

01-22-2022 @ 8:25 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009

CLR is an acid based product and i would not use it on a sending unit. It can damage brass and copper. Evapo-Rust is a water based product that is safe for brass and copper.

Tom

BRL

01-25-2022 @ 10:19 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2021

Hi Tom:
Well, I should have followed your advice about using Evapo-Rust on the sender instead of CRL but I was moving too fast. Anyway, after immersing it for 24 hrs, I cleaned the outside and scr*ped off any crusted rust. I popped off the cover and the insides appeared clean and dry so the rubber seal on the cover and diaphragm on bottom appear to be intact. With a little bit of gentle exercise I got the float arm free and it pivots full travel but is still a bit stiff. Although the inside electrics and mechanisms all appear intact I decided I needed expert evaluation and testing to see if it was restorable. So I sent it yesterday to a company called KM Lifestyle Mfg in MA to work on it and hopefully restore it to proper working order.

More info will come as I progress through this fuel system clean-up and repair.

Regards,
BRL

<< previous || next >>

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

Merchandise Questions

Membership Questions