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Posted By Discussion Topic: Tool recommendation sought -- page: 1 2 3     flatcreeker 09-11-2021 @ 3:00 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Feb 2021 Oh, any knowledge about this particular rebuild (presumably) tag? flatcreeker 09-11-2021 @ 2:56 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Feb 2021 Again Tom, thank you for your patient counsel. I fried the regulator cause it wasn’t grounded. New regulator in hand and will go on when I return from Savannah next week. I’m learning, albeit the hard way. On a lighter note, I need a robe rail complete with hardware. Got a lead? This is the only thing missing on the Mercury. Even have the tools with original pouch. Stay well. Doug TomO 09-05-2021 @ 8:24 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7385 Joined: Oct 2009 8.5V charging should send the needle on the BATT gauge past the "N" block. It is too high for your generator and your battery. Make sure that your generator and regulator are both well grounded. Clean all paint from the front of the intakes generator mounting surface and the back of the generator mount. Use a toothed washer under one of the regulator mounting bolts and make sure that your ground straps are in good condition. You can connect a jumper wire from the generator case to a mounting bolt of the regulator when you read the 8.5V to see if it brings the charging voltage below 7.5V. The optimal range is 7.2V-7.5V when the regulator and engine are at operating temperatures. The voltage will be slightly higher at cooler regulator temps. Checks should be made with an analog meter after the car has been driven at least 5 minutes. Tom flatcreeker 09-05-2021 @ 7:36 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Feb 2021 Thanks again for your patient counsel. Gonna make this short and sweet. When the Merc wouldn't crank, b2attery ck'd 5.2V. Put on charger. Meanwhile, studied youTube videos on generators, charging and voltage regulator/control boxes. Found the Moss Motors videos most instructive (my original classic car passion is Triumph TR3s. I was looking for one when I found the '39 Merc and was hooked). Cut out wasn't working. Took generator and regulator to and old school battery and ignition shop 20 miles away recommended by a buddy who has rebuilt vintage wooden boats for a living for 40 years. He took me into the shop and tested all explaining step by step what was going on. WOW! What an experience. Generator good. Voltage regulator was super hinky, voltage all over the place. He set up new regulator and I installed generator and new regulator. Showing 7.7 volts at battery at 1000 rpm. Test drove 4 miles and tested-test drove 30 miles and tested. All good. It did a tiny cough a time or two accelerating up grade. I may be hyper sensitive. Hot air heater blower motor is now working. Never put the two issues together. I guess the Merc doesn't like anything much below 6 volts. Subsequent cks at battery have shown as high as 8.5 volts at 1000 rpm. Not sure that's o.k.. I'll drive the merc to his shop next week and let him ck it. I am a stranger in a strange land. But, I'm loving the learning process. TomO 08-31-2021 @ 5:46 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7385 Joined: Oct 2009 I would eliminate all filters. The screen in the sediment bowl does a good job of removing the larger pieces of debris. If your tank is clean and the fuel line is not rusted internally, there should be very little debris in the fuel. Carbureted engines can stand a lot more debris than the fuel injected ones common today. If the engine turns over after cooling down. I would suggest that your starter be checked out. This means crawling under the car again to remove the starter. The reason for using the stock type hose is that the spring clamps may allow a vacuum leak causing the pump to be inefficient. I don't use or recommend using any thing on the fuel lines. The compression fittings seal very good. Your last test where you got "some stumble" on flat or hills accelerating from 20MPH sound like your carburetor needs service. Do you have to crank the engine for long periods before it starts, when you let the car sit for a couple of days? When you try to accelerate the accelerator pump squirts fuel into the venturi and the power valve opens under the low vacuum conditions to increase the flow of fuel. The low vacuum also causes the distributor vacuum brake to activate keeping the spark slightly retarded for more power. If any of those parts malfunction, you would notice a lag in acceleration. You can check the accelerator pump by looking down the throat of the carburetor and operating the accelerator. You should see 2 jets of fuel. You can check the vacuum brake by removing the 1 1/16" plug on the left (drivers) side of the distributor. There should be a washer on the inside attached to the adjustment screw that presses on the spring. Use your finger to remove the spring and plunger. There should be a leather pad on the plunger that presses against the advance wheel. If either of these is missing, they must be replaced. Tighten the plug to prevent vacuum leaks. The power valve can only be checked by removing the carburetor and disassembling it to remove the power valve. Tom flatcreeker 08-31-2021 @ 8:11 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Feb 2021 Took Merc for a 17 mile test drive, mixed terrain of steep, mild, flat, speed between 20-50 and it did the same stumble/stutter with mild acceleration but didn't matter if on flat or uphill. Could influence some with application of 1/4 choke but would then flood and improve when choke removed. Upon arrival home, shut down. Then thought I'd ck spark with engine at high end of normal temp range. It wouldn't turn over. Tried at solenoid, same thing. Would engage, move fan a few degrees but not turn over. Ck'd batt voltage: 5.2V. It did this stunt once before right after the stumble/stutter business began a month ago. It has a new Optima red top and takes a charge from charger fine. Just dammit. flatcreeker 08-30-2021 @ 11:10 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Feb 2021 I checked the line from the firewall to tank.. What I thought was rubber fuel line inside the frame rail was actually two vacuum lines running to the Columbia OD unit. Behind it was a copper coated steel (confirmed with magnet) fuel line. Getting under the Merc is a challenge at my home (a cabin in the woods). Getting back out from under even a greater challenge. I have ordered the correct rubber fuel line with crimped fittings Third Gen. It is 10" long and I'm not sure it will fit (length wise); it will be close so we shall see. Other than being "correct", what it the advantage of "crimped" fittings? I would assume they would be less prone to leaking. I assume one end has a swivel fitting? Should I be applying anything on the threads of fuel line connections? I never have and assume the answer is a resounding no. I have considered eliminating the paper fuel filter just to eliminate a restriction. The old filter was cut open and not a spec of anything found. There was the strong smell of gasoline. I followed your counsel re searching "fuel delivery" in the forums and spent and hour or more reading. I learned a lot. I continue to be in your debt for the time you are giving this new flathead traveler. TomO 08-30-2021 @ 8:49 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7385 Joined: Oct 2009 The line from the tank should be a steel line that is copper coated to prevent rust. Rubber lines can collapse under vacuum and reduce the fuel flow. Copper lines can work harden and crack. The line from the steel line to the fuel pump should be an Ethanol resistant flexible line with crimped on connections. These are available from https://thirdgenauto.com/ I don't know where to get the proper line any more. I used to suggest Roy Nacewicz, but he is deceased. The last line that I purchased from Macs, started rusting before I installed it. Try sending a private message to Ford38v8. He posted a source on here several years ago. Tom flatcreeker 08-29-2021 @ 4:30 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Feb 2021 Warmed up the engine. Test drove about 5 miles, no problems. Continued on down the mountain and began to feel a bit of the stumble, then full stumble. Turned around and headed home. At the point at which I have experienced the stumble/stutter previously, I added about 1/4 +/- choke, 1/2 mile up an avg. 4% grade and drove back to the cabin with no stumble/stutter. Ck'd the vented cap: all good there. Tomorrow, I plan to apply about 2-3 lb. air pressure, blowing from the pump connection back to the tank. Shall see what that yields. I'm not sure if I have copper or rubber most of the way back to the tank. Copper runs from the engine compartment down to the frame rail. I think somewhere about there it changes to rubber. I'm pretty sure it's received a new or cleaned tank in its' recent past. I'll be checking the records to clarify that. flatcreeker 08-29-2021 @ 10:20 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Feb 2021 -Warm engine at idle- steady blue arc 1/2" + -Ran 4 minutes at RPM simulating 30MPH road speed in high gear yielded steady run, no skip, stumble, or miss. Warm engine, cyl head temp 188F. fuel in bowl steady, no bubbles-same with filter. -After run, re-check spark at idle- steady blue arc 1/2 + - After run, engine accepted acceleration from idle with minimal hesitation. Ambient: temp 80F, humidity 74%, elevation 1,800.

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