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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Tool recommendation sought

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Discussion Topic: Tool recommendation sought -- page: 1 2 3

flatcreeker

08-20-2021 @ 5:06 AM

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I need a device for 6 volt electrical work on the '39 merc. I have a Fluke multimeter but it doesn't do current.

Recommendations?

cliftford

08-20-2021 @ 11:16 AM

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I assume your fluke meter is digital. Get an analog meter. The kind that has a needle.

woodiewagon46

08-20-2021 @ 2:59 PM

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I have a Fluke digital but my old standby is my Simpson 260. I purchased it back in the late '60s and it's my go to meter. You can pick them up at garage sales for as little as $20, because everybody wants digital. As for your question, any big box store such as Lowe's of Home Depot has a selection of volt meters. I would suggest something mid range for around $30. As long as it does 6,12V, and continuity it will work for auto use.

ford38v8

08-20-2021 @ 3:30 PM

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Analog is not only cheaper, but is the preferred type for our needs with the old Fords: to be specific, while checking the ignition system while the engine is running, you can see where the analog needle is pointing, but the digital meter will light up all segments and read 88888888 for everything.

Alan

flatcreeker

08-20-2021 @ 4:32 PM

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Thanks to all for the input. Yes, my Fluke is digital and ok for what it is.

I'm a new, or rather a returning, classic car owner (recently accepted custody of a strong running '39 Merc fordor survivor) and only able to do light wrenching from topside. I did, years ago, have all the tools and equip for this game but, not so much now.

I, now, recall having an ancient engine analyzer, of course it was analog. Thinking it was labeled Sears/Penske. Have seen some at swap meets recently. That would do all I need, and more.

I'll be looking around for something analog.

Thanks to all.

TomO

08-21-2021 @ 8:19 AM

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Check the operation manual for any Sears Engine analyzer before you buy it. They have a 12V version that does not work on 6V systems and an electronic model that only works on NEG ground. The units are powered by the car's electrical system. Look for one that uses D cells to power the meter. Make sure that you get guarantee that the tool works and has an operation manual.

Stay away from the vintage Sun equipment. Most of them require a mercury battery in order to be accurate and those batteries are no longer sold in the US.

If you shop at a swap meet, carry a 6 volt lantern battery that you checked with your Fluke and test the accuracy of the voltmeter.

Tom

1931 Flamingo

08-21-2021 @ 10:43 AM

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Harbor Freight is your friend.
Paul in CT

flatcreeker

08-21-2021 @ 3:02 PM

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Tom-
Thanks for the valuable information.

As I recall, the ones which I thought might work for me had a ranges for several voltages including 6 and 12. Some had selector for 4, 6, or 8 cylinders. Do not know that I noticed whether they had the ability to use the power provided by the vehicle being tested. All I saw required a battery but I don't recall which battery. Based on their age, it would have been a C or D cell.

I do know that anything I considered would first get a close inspection of the battery contacts as many of these, if left with battery installed for an extended period, would suffer serious corrosion.

Do you know if these analyzers typically had the capacity to test coils/condensers? Load test batteries?

Thanks again-

Doug

This message was edited by flatcreeker on 8-21-21 @ 3:04 PM

TomO

08-22-2021 @ 8:15 AM

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Doug, I am not familiar with most of the testers available on E-Bay. Typically you need a coil tester to test the coil and condenser. SnapOn made a good one in the 1980's and they show up on E-Bay occasionally. I bought mine at a swap meet back in 1987 for $10. I don't think that you will be able to find one for that price today. Here is a link to one like I bought.

http://www.2040-parts.com/snap-on-coil-tester-vintage-nice-1950-chevy-ford-buick-rat-rod-i8902/

You really don't need the coil tester or a battery load tester.

To test the coil and distributor spark you can just hold a spark plug wire near a head nut and look for a nice blue spark 1/2" long at idle speed. You can also use a tool like this:
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25069-Adjustable-Ignition-Tester/dp/B0014WDFLY

If the engine won't start, try connecting a jumper directly from the battery to the coil input.

To test the battery, I just use my volt meter. Charge the battery fully, connect you meter probes across the battery and crank the engine with the ignition off. You should read about 5.5V or more. If the reading is less take the battery to a shop that will test it. If it tests good, your starter may be going bad or the battery doesn't have enough CCA to handle the load.

Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 8-22-21 @ 9:38 AM

flatcreeker

08-26-2021 @ 7:06 AM

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Tom,

Thanks for the information. I like the tester you identified on Amazon. I hadn't seen one like it with an adjustable gap.

I have a good starting, very strong running, very original 239 cu in which only recently started missing intermittently. It generally occurs after driving 10-15 miles in moderate ambient heat, upon accelerating under load (typically going up a hill in 2nd or 3rd). It is just a quick stutter/stumble which repeats every second or two as long as I'm accelerating.

I have very limited experience with early flatheads (mine is a '39 Merc) but trying to learn as I wish to do whatever I can myself. It'll likely be limited to what I can do from topside as physical limitations and limited shop equipment dictate.

What I read leads me to suspect the coil. It's running a Skip Haney distributor and coil. I'm leaning toward converting to an external coil for cooler temps. I'm located in hilly, some say mountainous, N.E. Georgia and though we've experienced a mild Spring and Summer, it will be warmer.

I do go on.

This is one fine Merc, expertly curated and maintained by another Tom in Washington from whom I recently acquired.

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