Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / flathead running poorly

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion << previous || next >>

Posted By Discussion Topic: flathead running poorly -- page: 1 2     carcrazy 10-28-2019 @ 10:25 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1582 Joined: Oct 2009 The rod bearings in the pre-1949 passenger car and pre-1948 truck engines rotate. These engines have the full floating rod bearings which are free to turn between the rod journals and the rods. This is a very good setup much like the bearings used in turbochargers which have turbines that spin at incredibly high RPMs. rustedorrotting 10-28-2019 @ 8:22 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 124 Joined: Mar 2010 found the problem, power valve was leaking and diluted the oil. found out when the rods started knocking. I have pulled the motor and put it on a stand and pulled a main and a rod cap. There are no marks on either bearing indicating size. also how do the rod bearings keep from turning? there are no tabs to prevent this. rustedorrotting 09-16-2019 @ 3:37 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 124 Joined: Mar 2010 well, everything just came to an abrupt stop, it has a rod knock. polite conversation won't let me say how i feel. can i get the pan off in the frame? I put a new power valve in and took the tubes off the manifold and ran a wire loom that wont let the wires touch. started it and still back firing, but i had put MMO in the gas tank. When i started it, it would idle fairly good and as it sat there and ran, the backfiring got less and less. Also the fuel pressure stays at 2 pounds even when i shut it off. Any body have a good crank and bearings? 4dFordSC 09-16-2019 @ 8:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 266 Joined: Oct 2009 IMHO, if removing the plug wires from the conduits makes a difference, you need new wires. rustedorrotting 09-16-2019 @ 6:35 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 124 Joined: Mar 2010 I am going to remove the spark plug wires from the metal tubes they run in and try running them in a different way. Also replacing power valve in carb. i want to take it to the Newport hill climb in October. carcrazy 09-15-2019 @ 4:26 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1582 Joined: Oct 2009 As you know the firing order for all Flathead Ford V8's is: 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2. With the crab distributor cap one of the ignition (spark plug) wires for each bank crosses over to the other side of the engine. Looking at the distributor cap from the front, the order of the wires coming out of the cap on the passenger's side are from the top down: #2, #1, #5 & #4; from the top down on the driver's side the order is: Coil, #7, #3, #6 & #8. The rotor mounted on the front of camshaft rotates counter-clockwise. Your electronic ignition may require a larger spark plug gap than the stock system. Hope this helps and that you get your engine running properly. 37RAGTOPMAN 09-15-2019 @ 1:29 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1939 Joined: Oct 2009 hi here is the man you want to contact for CARBURETOR PARTS Contact: ken isidor - igadore@sbcglobal.net EARLY FORD V8 CLUB MEMBER also I saw you were having problems with bad vacuum reading, this is a cheap fix, I would suggest using MARVEL MYSTERY OIL, and see if this has any effect on the vacuum reading, valves sticking from sitting is a common problem with idle engines, disconnect one spark plug wire at a time, and see if it effects the engine, if you remove one wire and it make no difference that most likely is the cylinder with the problem the intake gasket could be also leaking, does the engine wobble when idling ? using a spray carb cleaner along the edge of gasket and intake and see if there is any difference in idle be careful not get to much on the hot engine, a few drops will work, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN rustedorrotting 09-15-2019 @ 12:58 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 124 Joined: Mar 2010 I have not driven the truck yet. Exhaust on passengers side seems to be where the backfire is. I am going to pull carb top to see if it holds fuel. I suspect the power valve might be bad, any suggestions on where to buy reputable replacements? TomO 09-15-2019 @ 8:57 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 Varying 13-15 inches vacuum could be normal with a cam that has lots of overlap. The cam manufacturer may have stamped the model number on the end of the cam with the timing gear. That will enable you to determine the cam specs. The pressure gauge could be going back to 0 because the fuel pump valves are not holding pressure or that the carburetor is leaking fuel or the needle valve in the carburetor is not sealing. Look down the throat of the carburetor, that is operational, when the engine is idling and when you shut it down. You should not see any fuel entering the throat. All fuel for the engine should be coming from the idle ports below the throttle plate. If you see fuel when the engine is idling, the power valve is leaking or the float level is set too high. If the truck engine had a 59 stamped on the bell housing, it would have been a 100 HP post war engine that was shared across all vehicles. It gets a little more difficult with the pre-WWII engines. The bore on the Mercury engine was larger (3 3/16") than the Ford engine (3 1/6"). There were some external differences when they were manufactured, but they may not have survived the years. You never answered the question about where the backfire is, exhaust or intake and when does it occur, accelerating, when you lift your foot from the accelerator pedal or driving at a steady speed. Tom rustedorrotting 09-15-2019 @ 7:56 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 124 Joined: Mar 2010 I am using a crab style distributor with electronic ignition, everything new. Checked the wiring 3x. The wires were put on about 3 years ago, but was only started maybe 4 times since. New internal resistance coil, not hooked up to original resistor. It seems to be coming from the passengers side, dual exhaust.

<< previous || next >>

PAGE: 1 2

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1