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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Starting system

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08-31-2019 @ 7:59 AM
Posts: 6105
Joined: Oct 2009
4 volt reading from a 6 volt battery means the battery is discharged and will not start the car. You need to read at least 6.0 volts with no load, to start the car. If you had an open circuit in the starter, it would not even try to turn the engine.

Your voltmeter test is showing a drain, your test light may not light up at 4 volts, so it is not showing a drain.

Repeat the voltmeter test and if it still shows voltage, disconnect the wire going the clock and recheck the for a drain with the voltmeter. If you still have a drain, disconnect the stop light switch and recheck. Next I would try the dome light circuit and then all of the other wires one at a time.


08-30-2019 @ 1:03 PM
Posts: 404
Joined: Oct 2009
Thanks MG - a very easy to read schematic.

08-26-2019 @ 12:49 PM
Posts: 1100
Joined: Nov 2009

Schematic > http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_electrical-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wirediagram1946-48car.jpg

This message was edited by MG on 8-26-19 @ 12:51 PM

08-26-2019 @ 12:29 PM
Posts: 404
Joined: Oct 2009

MG - Good thing I didn't send the pictures buddy. You would have seen the battery and starter cables hooked to the same side of the solenoid.

What was I saying about the hookup being easy and straightforward?


08-26-2019 @ 10:58 AM
Posts: 404
Joined: Oct 2009
Disconnected the battery yesterday, with it showing full charge. Checked it this morning and it is still showing a little over 6 volts.

However, when I tried to hook the battery back up, my newly rebuilt starter activates by itself. I pulled the push button from the dash to make sure it was not the reason, and then assumed the solenoid must be bad. Bought a new one and installed it. Same thing . Disconnecting and reconnecting the starter and solenoid is very easy and straight forward. Nothing else was touched, and all those cables and wiring are new. So now I am really lost.

08-25-2019 @ 3:16 PM
Posts: 1425
Joined: Oct 2009
try using a heavy duty battery jumper cables, like you use to jump start a car,
go from pos ground battery . directly to the frame and engine,
check engine grounds, from frame to engine, maybe loose ? clean and tight,!!
is there any difference, I suspect a bad ground, or corroded terminals
also from the starter solenoid on the one terminal pos 10-14 gauge wire should be feeding the ignition switch, light switch and radio,off of your fuse block.,
how are the fuses. check for a loose terminals
someplace there is a loose connection,or a corroded terminals . broken wire,?
go over your wiring, step by step
any photo's ?
hope this helps, 37Ragtopman

08-25-2019 @ 3:08 PM
Posts: 1100
Joined: Nov 2009
Still, pictures would be very helpful....

08-25-2019 @ 2:24 PM
Posts: 404
Joined: Oct 2009
From the time of it's installation a little over one year ago, there has never been any kind of the problem that points to the harness not being correctly wired. It is a Rhode Island harness patiently installed following their blueprint.
If that were the case it would have raised it's ugly head a long time before now.

08-25-2019 @ 1:22 PM
Posts: 1100
Joined: Nov 2009
Show us some pictures of all the wiring under the hood....

08-25-2019 @ 12:30 PM
Posts: 404
Joined: Oct 2009
Battery is fully charged with both cables connected. Everything is dead. Lights, horn, radio.

Test light from negative battery post to batt side of solenoid shows nothing. Touching to ignition side post of solenoid shows nothing. Jumping the solenoid posts with pliers produces no spark whatsoever. No light when touching small terminal.

Test at ignition switch shows no power getting there.

With small terminal grounded, pushing bottom button on solenoid lights test light.

The test light also lights when I touch the solenoid case itself.

What is happening?

This message was edited by silverchief on 8-25-19 @ 1:02 PM

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