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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1937 front windshield

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Discussion Topic: 1937 front windshield -- page: 1 2

trjford8

06-09-2019 @ 5:24 PM

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Thanks for reporting back to us. Glad you were successful in getting it apart.

TomO

06-09-2019 @ 8:52 AM

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Glad that you were able to get them separated. Patience is not a virtue when restoring a car, it is a necessity.

Tom

srg

06-09-2019 @ 8:23 AM

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I want to report that yesterday (the 8th), after soaking using an Acetone/ATF mix the two pieces separated. I had soaked them for a couple days. The pins were very corroded. The advice from the guys that responded to this post and PATIENCE did it thank you all.

3w2

06-07-2019 @ 6:51 PM

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If you mean the Ford script oval safety glass 'bug', the answer is yes although the lettering beneath the oval differs from that in the side and rear windows.

srg

06-07-2019 @ 8:22 AM

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That was a good one. I measured and it's two pieces of glass laminated , each 1/8" thick. The gap in the frame is 3/8". The material holding it in the frame was a woven thin, brown material which disintegrated on removal. Did original front window glass have the Ford "crab" or just the other windows?

srg

06-07-2019 @ 8:12 AM

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Sorry Tom. I meant to say ATF rather than brake fluid.

TomO

06-07-2019 @ 7:26 AM

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I have not heard many success stories with brake fluid breaking the rust bond, I do know that it can collect enough water to eat away a brake cylinder.

I would try the trans fluid and acetone mixture. Mix enough so that you cn immerse one end of the frame for a couple of days and then the other end.

I have used Evapo-Rust to remove rust and it does a good job, but I don't know if it would creep into the joint and free up the bond between the parts.
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Tom

37 Coupe

06-07-2019 @ 5:33 AM

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If that windshield is 3/8"-1/2" thick I would leave it as it must be the rare Al Capone 1937 Ford.

srg

06-06-2019 @ 4:51 PM

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Thank you, all of you. Patience is order no.1 for this operation. I will continue to apply penetrant and heat and sharp blows. One side was broke (the glass) and I removed it. I found a spot under it at the joint where the two halves meet with an indent to fit a flat chisel. That may help. I have noticed the square stock insert that joins the two halved is not drilled out, as the exterior of the frame is. It appears the four small screws that button the window together just press against the internal square stock, not screw through it. On the penetrant front, I have used Kroil. Sea Foam, W-D, Rust breaker from W-D, Liquid Wrench and tomorrow I am going to try a mixture of Acetone and brake fluid. I read people's testimonies and they swear by it. The old glass is very thick. Looks like almost 3/8" to 1/2" inch.

This message was edited by srg on 6-6-19 @ 5:03 PM

1937sedandelivery

06-06-2019 @ 1:20 PM

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I have gone through this before with three different windshields. They were all difficult to separate. One came apart after soaking and heat applied (it was a standard model so didn't care about the frame discoloring). On the other two, after successfully breaking off at least half the screws (:, the frame halves would not come apart. They were hopelessly rusted together with the internal 1/4" steel stock piece being the catalyst. Desperate situation leads to desperate measures...I hacksawed thru the joint and got a good look at the square stock and how badly it was rusted in place. So, I pulled out the drill and drilled out the stock piece as much as possible, it was several inches long. I couldn't pull out the piece so I pounded it in further, out of the way. Bought some new 1/4" stock from Ace, drilled and tapped four new holes and now have a frame that is ready to assemble, etc.
gregg

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