Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1939 Clutch and Brake Assembly Rebuild

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion

<< previous || next >>

Posted By

Discussion Topic: 1939 Clutch and Brake Assembly Rebuild

chask

10-30-2018 @ 3:40 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 48
Joined: Feb 2017

I'm trying to put new bushings in a 1939 Clutch and Brake Pedal assembly and am stuck trying to remove the pin that holds the Clutch Pedal to the shaft that goes through the Brake Pedal. One side of the pin appeared to be knurled on top the other was peened over. I started grinding the peened side and then the knurled side but it won’t budge in either direction. (using hammer and punch)
Is the pin straight or is it tapered, if so, which side to punch?
Should I attempt to drill out the pin?
Any other suggestions on how to disassemble the two pedals.
From what I have read once the pin is out the shaft should be “fairly easy” to slide out to get to the brake bushing.

Thanks,
Charlie

kubes40

10-30-2018 @ 3:52 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 3368
Joined: Oct 2009

It is a straight pin that was swedged in place under extreme pressure. You will need to drill it out. I'd suggest you start with a small diameter drill bit and move up in size incrementally. If I recall correctly, the hole is .250".
I have always drilled to approximately .187 or so and knocked the remaining "sleeve" out with a good cold chisel. This leaves an undamaged hole that allows for a strong installation of the new pin.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth

chask

10-30-2018 @ 4:24 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 48
Joined: Feb 2017

Thanks Mike,
That's the info I needed. I can see the diameter of the pin after grinding and it does appear to be 1/4" . Will give it a go tomorrow.
Thanks again for you help!

Thanks,
Charlie

chask

11-10-2018 @ 6:00 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 48
Joined: Feb 2017

Update on finding parts for rebuilding 1939 brake and clutch assembly. The bushing for the brake pedal is the hard part to find (P/N 91A-7526 1.92L X 1.193ID X 1.254OD) since it is no longer reproduced or stocked in the many old Ford parts stores. I found a bronze bushing on Amazon that had a 1 ¼” OD and 1 1/8” ID and 2” long (Bunting Bearings CB182016 $5.73). I pressed it into the brake pedal and reamed to the correct ID size for the brake assembly bracket. I used an adjustable reamer (1 1/16”to 1 3/16”) and slowly opened up the ID to fit the shaft. After reaming the ID I sanded the end of the bushing flush with the pedal.
I also bought the 1 ¼” drain pipe from Amazon (Keeney 20 gauge sink tail piece $8.00) as recommended in a Dick Spadoro post as a backup if the bushing didn’t work. It fit fine for both the ID and OD but I felt a bushing would be a better choice since the drain pipe is chrome plated not plain brass. If you go with the drain pipe it must be 20 gauge in order to have the right dimensions. There are many gauges of the 1 ¼” pipes from 17 to 22 gauge so make sure it is 20 gauge.
The Clutch shaft bushings are available (P/N B-7508) from Joe’s Antique Auto and fit with just minor sanding of the ID on one side. Depending on wear of the clutch shaft they may need to be reamed but mine were just a little tight so just needed light sanding.
The pedal assembly is like new now so should be able to stop on a dime (as long as the dime is 25 ft in diameter). Hope this helps anyone out there looking to rebuild their 1939 brake/clutch assembly.
Thanks again Mike for the tip on drilling out the pin. It worked out well and I used a grade 8 shoulder bolt to replace the pin when reassembling.

Thanks,
Charlie

<< previous || next >>

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

Merchandise Questions

Membership Questions