Topic: 1939 Clutch and Brake Assembly Rebuild


chask    -- 10-30-2018 @ 3:40 PM
  I'm trying to put new bushings in a 1939 Clutch and Brake Pedal assembly and am stuck trying to remove the pin that holds the Clutch Pedal to the shaft that goes through the Brake Pedal. One side of the pin appeared to be knurled on top the other was peened over. I started grinding the peened side and then the knurled side but it won’t budge in either direction. (using hammer and punch)
Is the pin straight or is it tapered, if so, which side to punch?
Should I attempt to drill out the pin?
Any other suggestions on how to disassemble the two pedals.
From what I have read once the pin is out the shaft should be “fairly easy” to slide out to get to the brake bushing.


Thanks,
Charlie


kubes40    -- 10-30-2018 @ 3:52 PM
  It is a straight pin that was swedged in place under extreme pressure. You will need to drill it out. I'd suggest you start with a small diameter drill bit and move up in size incrementally. If I recall correctly, the hole is .250".
I have always drilled to approximately .187 or so and knocked the remaining "sleeve" out with a good cold chisel. This leaves an undamaged hole that allows for a strong installation of the new pin.

Mike "Kube" Kubarth


chask    -- 10-30-2018 @ 4:24 PM
  Thanks Mike,
That's the info I needed. I can see the diameter of the pin after grinding and it does appear to be 1/4" . Will give it a go tomorrow.
Thanks again for you help!

Thanks,
Charlie


chask    -- 11-10-2018 @ 6:00 AM
  Update on finding parts for rebuilding 1939 brake and clutch assembly. The bushing for the brake pedal is the hard part to find (P/N 91A-7526 1.92L X 1.193ID X 1.254OD) since it is no longer reproduced or stocked in the many old Ford parts stores. I found a bronze bushing on Amazon that had a 1 ¼” OD and 1 1/8” ID and 2” long (Bunting Bearings CB182016 $5.73). I pressed it into the brake pedal and reamed to the correct ID size for the brake assembly bracket. I used an adjustable reamer (1 1/16”to 1 3/16”) and slowly opened up the ID to fit the shaft. After reaming the ID I sanded the end of the bushing flush with the pedal.
I also bought the 1 ¼” drain pipe from Amazon (Keeney 20 gauge sink tail piece $8.00) as recommended in a Dick Spadoro post as a backup if the bushing didn’t work. It fit fine for both the ID and OD but I felt a bushing would be a better choice since the drain pipe is chrome plated not plain brass. If you go with the drain pipe it must be 20 gauge in order to have the right dimensions. There are many gauges of the 1 ¼” pipes from 17 to 22 gauge so make sure it is 20 gauge.
The Clutch shaft bushings are available (P/N B-7508) from Joe’s Antique Auto and fit with just minor sanding of the ID on one side. Depending on wear of the clutch shaft they may need to be reamed but mine were just a little tight so just needed light sanding.
The pedal assembly is like new now so should be able to stop on a dime (as long as the dime is 25 ft in diameter). Hope this helps anyone out there looking to rebuild their 1939 brake/clutch assembly.
Thanks again Mike for the tip on drilling out the pin. It worked out well and I used a grade 8 shoulder bolt to replace the pin when reassembling.


Thanks,
Charlie


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