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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1933 ford -- page: 1 2     fredsr 12-23-2017 @ 8:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 12 Joined: Aug 2017 I recently purchase a 33 Ford that needs an engine and I don't know much about flatheads. I have someone that wants to sell me an engine that they are saying is an 8BA out of a 1952 truck (please see attached picture) But when I look at the heads on the engine it says what looks like 59A. Could someone please advise if they think the attached picture is an 8BA or a 59A. What is the difference between the two, was one a newer style than the other? Also what year did they move the distributer from the front of the engine. Really confused on the 8ba and 59A thing. Also if this was a 1952 engine wouldn't have cylinder head bolds and not nuts as seen in the picture. Thank you, Fred Algieri CharlieStephens 12-23-2017 @ 8:36 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 880 Joined: Oct 2009 Fred, The first thing you should do is put your general location in your profile, something better may be just around the corner. I agree that the engine looks pre '48 but that is a good thing, they go in easier. If it was my car I would look for a 21 stud but it depends on what you want to do with the car. By the way, what do you intend to do with the car? What is wrong with the engine that is in it now, or did you buy it without an engine? Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 12-23-17 @ 8:38 PM TomO 12-24-2017 @ 11:29 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 You need to make a decision of what you want to do with the car, before you purchase a motor. If all that you want is a good touring car, you could install the 59A engine or the 8BA engine. Either one will fit in your car. If you intend to have the car point judged you will need to find an engine that is correct for your car. Because you are inexperienced, I would suggest that you buy an engine that has been rebuilt, not one that has been sitting long enough to accumulate lots of rust. The advantage of buying a rebuilt engine, is that it will have been checked for cracks and other damage and the rebuilder should stand behind it. If you live in the Midwest, contact Automotive Engineering, John Wolf, 319-361-3424, IA. He has a fairly large collection of rebuildable cores and has a good reputation. Tom fredsr 12-25-2017 @ 9:05 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 12 Joined: Aug 2017 Hi Tom Thank you for your reply, what would be the later model engine the 59A or the 8BA. juergen 12-25-2017 @ 12:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 254 Joined: Jan 2010 To answer your questions directly. The 59 AB belongs to the pre 49 family of Ford flatheads. The 8BA belongs to the post 48. The engine has a distributor that is pre WWII (post WWII do not have the coil on the distributor). All flatheads had the distributor on the front (the post 48 look like a modern distributor). The intake manifold is pre WWII (post WWII has the distributor vacuum taken from below the carburetor instead of at a port near the front accessing an intake vacuum). I can't tell from your picture if there is a separate bellhousing in between the engine block and the trans. If so, the block is post 48; if the trans bolts directly to the block, it is pre 49. Since it is a 24 stud engine, it is post 37. The inside could be a mix of years. I doubt if it is an 8BA from a 52 as it should have a conventional looking distributor on the front instead of the helmet distributor. One could use studs or bolts on either block. As others mentioned, if this is your first flathead, get one that is rebuilt by a knowledgeable shop/person as most shops don't have the experience to work on this antique. And just parts chasing takes knowledge. TomO 12-26-2017 @ 7:41 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 The engine shown in your photo, looks like the 46-48 engine with the earlier 1937-1941 distributor. The bell housing is obscured in the photo, so I could not see the 59 cast into the bell housing. The transmission is a side shift from 1940-1948. It is not an engine that I would consider trying to make run, without disassembling and checking for cracks and rust damage. The easiest engine to install in your 1933 Ford would be one from 1933-1936. That would be a engine with 21 studs to hold the heads on and the water pumps in the heads. The 1936 block with insert bearings are the best of this series. The next easiest would be the 1939-1948 engine. That would be one that had 24 studs to hold the heads and the water pumps would be mounted to the front of the block. The 1946-1948 59A blocks are the best of this series. The 8BA series started with the 1948 truck motors and ended in 1953. These have 24 bolts to hold the heads on and have a separate bell housing. The truck engines have the water pumps with the motor mount that will work best with the 1933 frame. Each of the series has its own faults and desirability. Only the original type engine will not require some modifications to install it. Just because an engine is the latest design doesn't mean that it is best for your car. You have to make the decision based on what you want for the car. If you are interested in increasing the potential value along with ease of selling, a car with the correct year engine will probably have a higher value to the general market than one with a later engine. Here is a link to the different engines used from 1932 -1953. http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_drawings_engines.htm Tom fredsr 12-26-2017 @ 7:09 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 12 Joined: Aug 2017 Thank you for your reply it was a big help. I live in NJ and I was wondering if you know of any rebuilders in the North East. fredsr 12-26-2017 @ 7:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 12 Joined: Aug 2017 Thank you for your reply it was a big help. I live in NJ and I was wondering if you know of any rebuilders in the North East. fredsr 12-26-2017 @ 7:13 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 12 Joined: Aug 2017 Thank you for your reply TomO 12-27-2017 @ 2:15 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 I cannot recommend any rebuilders in your area, as I am not familiar with their work. I suggest that you contact the NJ Regional Group and ask them for recommendations. The contact information is in the blue banner on the left side of this web page. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 12-28-17 @ 7:08 AM

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