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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1933 ford

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Discussion Topic: 1933 ford -- page: 1 2

Ccaz

01-14-2018 @ 7:07 AM

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If you are not concerned about authenticity of your car you should go with a 1936 engine without Babbit bearings. These bearings you can replace yourself and there should be plenty of 1936 motors out there, more than 33/34 engines. But in reality, Good Babbit bears should last you for the life of your car. So once you get your engine rebuilt the babbit bearings will outlive you.

This message was edited by Ccaz on 1-14-18 @ 7:14 AM

01-13-2018 @ 12:18 PM

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Ideally, you should try to install a '36 'LB' engine as there are few rebuilders who pour Babbitt bearings these days. The original engine in a '33 had Babbitt bearings....

Ccaz

01-13-2018 @ 10:59 AM

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contact.. Joesoldcars in NewYorkState.
Joe knows a good engine rebuilder in the area.
Personally..I think you should purchase a 33/34 engine to be consistent with your car...In the long run..this will keep you car true to the age it was built in and increase the value of your car.

fredsr

12-27-2017 @ 6:21 PM

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Thank you

TomO

12-27-2017 @ 2:15 PM

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I cannot recommend any rebuilders in your area, as I am not familiar with their work. I suggest that you contact the NJ Regional Group and ask them for recommendations. The contact information is in the blue banner on the left side of this web page.

Tom

This message was edited by TomO on 12-28-17 @ 7:08 AM

fredsr

12-26-2017 @ 7:13 PM

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Thank you for your reply

fredsr

12-26-2017 @ 7:11 PM

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Thank you for your reply it was a big help. I live in NJ and I was wondering if you know of any rebuilders in the North East.

fredsr

12-26-2017 @ 7:09 PM

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Thank you for your reply it was a big help. I live in NJ and I was wondering if you know of any rebuilders in the North East.

TomO

12-26-2017 @ 7:41 AM

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The engine shown in your photo, looks like the 46-48 engine with the earlier 1937-1941 distributor. The bell housing is obscured in the photo, so I could not see the 59 cast into the bell housing. The transmission is a side shift from 1940-1948. It is not an engine that I would consider trying to make run, without disassembling and checking for cracks and rust damage.

The easiest engine to install in your 1933 Ford would be one from 1933-1936. That would be a engine with 21 studs to hold the heads on and the water pumps in the heads. The 1936 block with insert bearings are the best of this series.

The next easiest would be the 1939-1948 engine. That would be one that had 24 studs to hold the heads and the water pumps would be mounted to the front of the block. The 1946-1948 59A blocks are the best of this series.

The 8BA series started with the 1948 truck motors and ended in 1953. These have 24 bolts to hold the heads on and have a separate bell housing. The truck engines have the water pumps with the motor mount that will work best with the 1933 frame.

Each of the series has its own faults and desirability. Only the original type engine will not require some modifications to install it.

Just because an engine is the latest design doesn't mean that it is best for your car. You have to make the decision based on what you want for the car. If you are interested in increasing the potential value along with ease of selling, a car with the correct year engine will probably have a higher value to the general market than one with a later engine.

Here is a link to the different engines used from 1932 -1953.

http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_drawings_engines.htm

Tom

juergen

12-25-2017 @ 12:11 PM

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To answer your questions directly. The 59 AB belongs to the pre 49 family of Ford flatheads. The 8BA belongs to the post 48.

The engine has a distributor that is pre WWII (post WWII do not have the coil on the distributor). All flatheads had the distributor on the front (the post 48 look like a modern distributor). The intake manifold is pre WWII (post WWII has the distributor vacuum taken from below the carburetor instead of at a port near the front accessing an intake vacuum). I can't tell from your picture if there is a separate bellhousing in between the engine block and the trans. If so, the block is post 48; if the trans bolts directly to the block, it is pre 49. Since it is a 24 stud engine, it is post 37. The inside could be a mix of years. I doubt if it is an 8BA from a 52 as it should have a conventional looking distributor on the front instead of the helmet distributor. One could use studs or bolts on either block.

As others mentioned, if this is your first flathead, get one that is rebuilt by a knowledgeable shop/person as most shops don't have the experience to work on this antique. And just parts chasing takes knowledge.

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