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Discussion Topic:
leaking rear main seal
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supereal |
01-27-2012 @ 10:29 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Many of us use 20-50 weight oil for mostly summer driving. It tends to leak less, and does provide some additional oil pressure at idle or low speeds. Some leakage can be around the main bearing seal carrier, instead of the seal, itself. There are modern lip seals for the front of the crank but, so far, none for the rear. As fixing your leak requires pulling the engine, I'd live with it and see if it slows down as the seal breaks in.
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PeterFord |
01-28-2012 @ 6:29 PM
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New Member
Posts: 125
Joined: Jan 2011
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Allen Thank you. I think you are right. All trucks leak a drip or two. I have just been too particular. You made me feel better. Peter
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PeterFord |
01-28-2012 @ 6:29 PM
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New Member
Posts: 125
Joined: Jan 2011
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Allen Thank you. I think you are right. All trucks leak a drip or two. I have just been too particular. You made me feel better. Peter
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51f1 |
01-29-2012 @ 1:08 PM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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That stuff about synthetic oil leaking more than non-synthetic could be true! I realize that this is anecdotal, but, when I rebuilt my 8RC, I decided to use synthetic for its superior lubricity. My rear seal leaked a little, but not much more that you'd expect. After about 3,500 miles I decided that using synthetic was a waste of money. The leak at the rear seal has slowed considerably to where it is almost non-existent. The front seal never did leak.
Richard
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supereal |
01-29-2012 @ 2:31 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The same quality that makes synthetic oil preferable for newer engines in a problem in old ones. It tends to fill voids in surfaces that conventional oil doesn't, but can escape around primitive seals, such as the ropes used in old Fords. The synthetics are extending drain intervals, some times to 10,000 miles. The viscosity is now as low as 0! We insist that synthetic oils not be used in our rebuilt engines until at least 1,000 miles. Otherwise the rings will not seat before the crosshatch on the cylinder walls is gone. Lightly driven collector cars seldom rack up enough miles in a season to justify the high cost of synthetics. It is considerably less expensive to use conventional oils and change them at least at the beginning and end of the driving season to get rid of condensation and combustion by products.
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