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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / 1946 Mercury 4-dr. sedan

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Discussion Topic: 1946 Mercury 4-dr. sedan

Peder D

10-02-2009 @ 1:43 PM

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My first question on the new forum...are both running board mouldings identical, in other words, interchangeable?...thanks...Peder

TomO

10-03-2009 @ 9:07 AM

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Peder,

Th right running board molding is P/N 29A-16466-A and the left one is P/N 29A-16467-A. The molding is the same for all 46-48 Mercurys

Tom

supereal

10-03-2009 @ 10:12 AM

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The moldings are different. That is why they have separate part numbers. They have different ends, with the front being closed. The rear fits under the stone guards and lays flat against the fender, but over the welt.

Peder D

10-03-2009 @ 10:20 PM

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Ok, thanks to you both...while waiting for an answer, I detected from pictures that the 2 pieces were different...by the way, how are they properly removed from the running boards?...thanks again...Peder

supereal

10-04-2009 @ 9:11 AM

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The running board trim simply (?) snaps on over the rubber by hooking the top on, then snapping the bottom edge into place with your hand. In practice, it usually is a bit more complicated. Be sure that the rubber edge of the running board is clean, and free of obstructions. Then loosen the lower edge of the rear fender stone guards so the trim can be slipped behind them. Carefully position the trim, and start to snap it under the rubber, with a helper supporting the back end of the trim. If the trim needs some "persuasion", use a pad, such as a folded towel, and gently tap it with a soft faced hammer on the lower, curved edge, not the face. The trim, particularly the repro type, is easily dented. When all is in place, we install a small screw at the head end, usually stainless steel or similar plated kind. This prevents the strip being blown off the car if the front comes loose, something you probably won't find out until you are miles down the road. Don't ask how I know that.

richmv8

10-11-2009 @ 2:51 PM

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Hi Peder,

The Mercury grooved style running board mouldings are same part numbers actually for the 1942 and 1946-1948 (Left and Right sides are of course distinct). The "29A" part prefix tells its origin.

You did not get an answer regarding proper removal. Assuming the running boards are still installed on the car.....It is a good idea to loosen the rear fender rubber boot (stone guard) and pull it out a ways or remove it. Open the doors to work on the moulding area of course. Then using a thin blade putty knife of approx 1" width, run it along the upper and lower edges of the moulding where it meets the running board rubber staying low and almost level to clear any sticking residue or dirt along the metal to rubber joint edges (you could use any good sharp knife to do this edge scoring, but don't cut into the rubber!). What you are trying to do is "break loose" the tight bond of the moulding to the old rubber surfaces. Look for any bogus or non-factory added screws and remove them. Then very carefully (perhaps from bottom side first) insert the edge of the thin blade putty knife under the metal lip of the moulding and slide it along while "coaxing" the lip of the moulding out and away from the running board rubber covering. Be careful not to bend the moulding metal edges if you can. You will usually find a "sweet spot" where the moulding will loosen easily and start to release without having to bend the edge of the moulding. Then slide your putty knife along and move it forward and backward along the full length. You can advance to a very wide blade to ease the process. Don't just use screwdrivers or other prying devices since they will mutilate the moulding edges and perhaps the good rubber edges of your running boards.

By the way, your original mouldings (true Mercury) are not being reproduced to my knowledge. You should try to find N.O.S. or nice used ones if yours are seriously damaged. Even though they might be scuffed or bent or dinged, they can most always be straightend quite well by an experienced stainless steel metal restoration shop. Many chrome replating shops offer the service or can recommend a top quality stainless trim servicing shop. Once they are straigntened, de-dinged and edges all trued up nicely, they must be re-polished. They will glisten like a new when properly done. They should be checked carefully for proper dimensioning of the "snap-on" edges so that they will hold onto the rubber running board covers. Re-installation onto good running boards having good rubber will go easily. They are just a press fit but should snap on snugly. I wouldn't put on any screws and you shouldn't have to if the mouldings are properly reshaped BEFORE you attempt reinstallation. Don't use any rubber mallets or severe blows to install them, you may dent or disfigure them. Slow pressure by hand and make sure you line up front end correctly (fully against front edge or running board)to allow small gap for fender welting to fit along front vertical edge.

If your running board covers are in bad shape and have bad rubber edges, now is the time to strip off the old rubber coverings and have new ones re-valcanized onto them just like the originals. The after market cover kits are not quite like originals and are just glued on with messy contact cement. I don't think they are equal dimension so the stainless might not fit as well as onto properly revulcanized running boards. The running boards must be completely stripped down, de-rusted by blasting and then rustproofed well before applying new covers (either glue on or vulcanized). Hunley Acuff here in the U.S. "is the man" for proper revulcanizing of all makes and type of running boards with proper rubber and patterns. He knows the old Fords and Mercs very well. He is in Rossville, Georgia. Ph. (706) 866-4875. He can offer advice, quote you work and shipping and what services he offers. Good work like his does not come cheap, but is superior and worth it if you are doing a concourse quality restoration.

I hope your running boards are in good condition. They must be removed from the car for rebuilding and frequently they are very difficult to remove without breaking off the retaining bolts that go into the blind cage nuts inside the rocker panels under the body. Many guys wind up with great difficulty in this area when it comes time to properly reattach the running boards if the old bolts cannot be extracted properly and the blind cage nut threads salvaged.

Best of luck and hope all goes very well for you.

Rich

This message was edited by richmv8 on 10-11-09 @ 4:58 PM

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