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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / Starting Issue - 1941 original flathead

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Discussion Topic: Starting Issue - 1941 original flathead -- page: 1 2

nelsb01

08-20-2025 @ 11:50 AM

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Here is your 'friend' when it comes to non-ethanol gas

https://www.pure-gas.org/

Just click on your state -- find a city near you

Kpyto71

08-20-2025 @ 10:35 AM

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Thanks TomO, 40Coupe, and Kens 36...

We've continued to be abel to start the car and drive it without issues starting... just learning a bit about it as I go. Usually very little choke is needed if it's been sitting for a few days. Tonight will have been about 3-4 days since we last started it, so it'll be sort of a test. (fingers crossed that all goes okay).

With your recommendations (and enlightenments), I'll hold off adding anything to the fuel. I'm down to about 1/4 of a tank of fuel or so, so I'll get it down a bit more... in the meantime I'll look and see if there is somewhere near me that has ethenol free fuel. Not sure of that, but I also appreciate the information the fuel lines. Perhaps my two issues are related then....
- Hard starting after sitting some days (could be a few things including my needing to learn the engine start procedure for my car).
- Unable to start after the engine is at temp.

In looking at the overall condition of the carb (and not knowing the recent history), rebuilding the carb is probably something I should look into. I live in Illinois and I'm quickly approaching a winter lull that I might attempt the carb rebuild on my own in. In the meantime... I've seen knock off 94s available for around $125... I thought about purchasing one to use for the balance of the year, and while I'm taking my sweet time learning and rebuilding my first carb... I've seen mixed reviews on the knock off... any suggestions, or experience?

Okay... that's it for this installment from me. I think I'll look to joining the local chapter... there are some other questions I'll have outside of the engine itself that I'll need some help with, and hopefully that'll help me. I love the car, and I just want to be a good caretaker for the time we own it - and keep it on the road.
Thanks again!
C.

TomO

08-11-2025 @ 11:57 AM

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Chris, if I read your post correctly, you only needed the starting fluid during the period where you could not get it started and now it starts fine.

In looking at the photo of the driver's side of the engine, I noticed that you have hose clamps on the flex line going to the carburetor. If that is still the case, it may be the cause of your hard starting after the car sat for a few days. What I think happened is that the fuel in the carburetor evaporated or leaked out, when you tried to start it, the fuel pump started sucking air through the flex hose connections and could not prime the carburetor. The needle valve at the inlet of the carburetor was also stuck, so the weak fuel delivery could not over come it and the engine ran only while it had starting fluid. Once you have the engine running, the rapid operation of the fuel pump overcomes these deficiencies.

The fuel lines from the tank to the fuel pump should be air tight. The fuel pump has to lift the fuel about 10" and any vacuum leak will make that harder to accomplish.

If it were my car, I would replace the flex hose, spark plugs and flush the inlet of the carburetor with carburetor cleaner, I would also add a can of Sea Foam to the gas tank to clean some of the varnish from the fuel system. Your fuel pump looks like one that has been manufactured in tis century, so it is most likely Ethanol resistant.

When starting my Mercury while warm, I don't give it any gas until it catches. You may want to try that with yours. To clear a flooded engine, press the accelerator pedal to the floor and crank the engine for about 15 seconds.

Tom

Kens 36

08-06-2025 @ 7:40 AM

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Chris,

What a great update! Congratulations on your success.

For fuel, you can forget about lead additives - they are simply not needed for your car. But, until you know more about your fuel pump and some other components, try to find non-ethanoyl fuel. It is simply not available where I live so we have learned to deal with the 10% ethanoyl for decades.

40Coupe gives you good information. A carb rebuild cannot hurt. As Coupe says you can do it yourself, but please get a good kit - Daytona Parts https://daytonaparts.com/ is the go-to place. You can rebuild your fuel pump with an ethanoyl tolerant kit from Then and Now Automotive https://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/. If you would prefer for a pro to rebuild either, Charlie Schwender is certainly the man.

Keep us updated on your progress.

Ken

Kpyto71

08-06-2025 @ 5:28 AM

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An update.... success!

Last night my wife and I tag teamed... she manned the starting fluid, and I manned the choke, starter, and gas pedal. After a little more coaxing we got her started. Looking in the glass filter, the fuel flow looked great and with the choke off after a very short time it idled with no issues. We took the car for a longer drive (longer for us right now was about 7 miles in the 40 - 50 mph range), enjoyed the evening air, and parked the car back in her spot. This morning, I went out pulled the choke a bit (1/4 out perhaps), and she fired right off after a fairly short push on the starter button.

I learned while playing with the choke, only pulling it out between 1/8 and 1/4 of the way was the sweet spot. Any more and the engine was unresponsive. It did take some time with the starting fluid though - nearly a full can of it. Again, a carb rebuild is probably in order. At least I feel I know the engine a bit better now.

The fuel looks much better than in the picture that I provided in my first post - again, that picture was a few years back prior to us becoming care takers of the car.

Thank you for the comments to help... the discussion points on lead additives is something I need to look into... I know the car has been restored, and while I have a LOT of documentation from the original owner (1941 - 1979), owners since did not provide documentation... so I don't know what's been replaced, or if the components of the engine will manage the ethanol or not.

CarCrazy - I believe the engine was last rebuilt in spring of 1972 with about 173,800 miles on it, and probably has only about 26,000 miles on it since... Lots of parts (I have a list) were replaced... original block, but not sure of the components used... I'd have to dig into that a bit more.

Thanks again, it was awesome to get her back out on the road last night!

40 Coupe

08-06-2025 @ 5:08 AM

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Is your ignition system producing good consistent spark to each cylinder. This is a very easy check.
If it is then the carb may be at fault. or fuel pump may be at fault. Charlie Schwindler is the man to rebuild 94 Carbs. Or do it yourself with a rebuilding kit from Daytona parts in Fla.
The Carb model number is embossed on the Carb body such as 91-99.

This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 8-6-25 @ 5:09 AM

nelsb01

08-05-2025 @ 7:14 PM

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BUT................
Make sure that your fuel pump and gas lines (from cowl to pump) are ethanol resistant, or you will have other problems with using ethanol. The older materials are not manufactured for todays fuels.

carcrazy

08-05-2025 @ 12:01 PM

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If you are interested in reading more about modern gasolines, hard starting, overheating and other issues with older cars, Fifth Avenue has some publications that you might find of interest.

https://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/technical_publications.php#modern_gasoline

carcrazy

08-05-2025 @ 11:55 AM

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Kpyto71,

If your 1941 Ford engine is original, it already has hardened intake and exhaust valve seats. The reason lead was in the gasolines of the past was to provide an octane booster. Modern gasolines have other additives included which provide more than enough octane. One side effect of lead was it reduced valve seat wear. Since your engine has hardened valve seats, lead is not required. When lead was used, spark plugs required cleaning every 10K or so miles. Now that our cars run on lead-free fuel, sparkplugs can go for more than 100K miles with no service being required.

Kpyto71

08-05-2025 @ 10:53 AM

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Carcrazy...

So a question... for all I guess. I've heard that you shouldn't run ethanol (or need to prep the systems for it to eliminate the harm it can do), and that you should use a lead additive. I guess i've read the opposite as well... so... what's to believe?

Again, I'm new... prior to this the oldest car I've owned was my 1977 Olds with a 350. I've added the boat to that with the twin 427's, but those have electric choke and electronic ignition.... so having this car in my car is new to me... just want to be sure I'm caring for it the right way while I have it.

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