LOGIN
  • Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!



(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?
REGISTER NOW!

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

    http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / rear main oil leak

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: rear main oil leak -- page: 1 2

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts last

missouriron
01-25-2022 @ 5:23 AM
Member
Posts: 27
Joined: Jun 2011
          
I recently purchased a 1940 Deluxe. I noticed a larger than expected puddle of oil under the rear of the engine. I waited until it stopped dripping, then drove it 5 miles and place an eight inch pan under the oil pan. It filled the bottom of the pan before the drip stopped. I pulled the engine and tranny to see where the oil was coming from. After removing the pan and checking for a path of oil, I find nothing so far. I also noticed the rear main has no rope seal like my 1951, It only has an oil slinger.

Can someone give me some advice? Where else do I look? How do I solve this problem. I don't want to put everything back together and find I still have the problem.

Thanks Ron

Ron

37RAGTOPMAN
01-25-2022 @ 9:03 AM
Senior
Posts: 1941
Joined: Oct 2009
          
hi rear main oil leak
Seems like you have a major oil leak
how much oil in the engine,? maybe over full !
WHAT is the oil pressure ? if it is low it might be worn bearing, alowing the oil to seep out the rear main

I would remove the rear main cap and plastice guage how much clearance you have,
also check the if there is any dirt in the cap restricting the oil flow, or anywhere
also was there any clogged breathers, causing inside pressure in the engine,
pushing the oil out the rear main,
also check your oil pressure switch for leaking, on back of engine on the LS.
and the oil pump drive gears, there is a cover behind the flywheel, maybe the gasket is bad,?
LET'S HEAR HOW YOU MADE OUT, !!!!
Hope this helps 37Ragtopman, Maine,

This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 1-25-22 @ 1:50 PM

carcrazy
01-25-2022 @ 1:36 PM
Senior
Posts: 1587
Joined: Oct 2009
          
There are several things that will cause an oil leak past the rear main bearing on an early Ford V-8 engine:

1. Too much oil in the engine - over 5 quarts
2. Too much oil pressure - over 50 PSI
3. Too much clearance in the rear main bearing - specified clearance is .000 to .003 inch
4. Too much crankshaft end play - specified is .002 to .006 inch
5. Oil of too thin a viscosity - less than SAE 30 weight
6. Car parked on hill with front facing up
7. Use of high pressure/high volume oil pump - If the engine has been rebuilt and a high volume/80 PSI pump has been installed, remove it and replace it with an original 50 PSI pump

On a 1940 Ford V-8 there is no proper rear seal, only an oil slinger and a labyrinth sealing system to redirect the oil thrown off back down into the oil pan.

This message was edited by carcrazy on 1-25-22 @ 1:39 PM

37RAGTOPMAN
01-26-2022 @ 5:54 AM
Senior
Posts: 1941
Joined: Oct 2009
          
rear main oil leak
I have a 80 lb pump in my 21 stud engine, left the pressure relief valve inplace,
NOT leaking, any more then it ever did. not enough to be concerened,
It is FORD.,
I think if you have worn bearing. the higher pressure pump would cause more leaking past the worn rear main bearing,
this is possible
2 cents 37Ragtopman ,Maine

TomO
01-26-2022 @ 8:19 AM
Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The slinger system works OK in most situations.

There should be a pipe in the rear main bearing cap to direct excess oil into the pan.

I use a non-hardening sealer like Permatex to seal around the outside of the 2 pot metal pieces that the slinger rides in.

I have never found that the weight of the oil used had any effect on oil leakage.

Are you sure that it is engine oil and not a mixture of engine and transmission oil? The main shaft oil seal could be contributing to the problem.



Tom

missouriron
01-26-2022 @ 4:15 PM
Member
Posts: 27
Joined: Jun 2011
          
I will plastiguage the main bearing and let you know what happens with that. The oil gauge is bad but no evidence of leaking. Just turning on the key let the gauge peg to the maximum. This happens without the engine running. I will have to get the engine disconnected from the engine stand before I can get the clutch and flywheel disassembled. Will let you know after I get that done.

Ron

Plastiguage shows main bearing clearance being .002 with 100lbs torque. Seems to be within tolerance.

I have removed the pot metal "horseshoe?" from the block. It appears to be wider than standard. It measures .318 in at the widest part. Another on my parts shelf measures .268 in. Is that enough difference to allow oil clinging to the slinger to let oil get past the block and into the oil pan that houses the flywheel and clutch?

Any advice is appreciated
Ron

This message was edited by missouriron on 1-27-22 @ 7:49 AM

missouriron
01-26-2022 @ 4:41 PM
Member
Posts: 27
Joined: Jun 2011
          
TomO, there is a weap pipe in the main bearing cap.

Where is the pressure relief located? I was unaware of such a thing.

Ron

Ron

TomO
01-27-2022 @ 8:26 AM
Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The "horseshoe" should have a sharp V shape groove. I don't have one available to measure the width.

Did you look for a P/N on the part? Most of the slinger type had the P/N 78-6335 cast into the part. The rope types had the P/N 91A-6335 cast into them also, but there were some aftermarket ones made that did not have the P/N cast into them.

The block has a pressure relief valve at the front of the oil galley under the intake manifold. If you have the short body oil pump, it also has a pressure relief valve on the side. The short body pump is an 80# pump.

You oil pressure dash unit appears to working, but the wire going to the sending unit is either grounded or the sending unit is shorted. If you have an aftermarket sending unit it could be the cause. Look for a good used King-Seeley sending unit or a NOS one. Match the sending unit to the oil pump pressure, 50# sending unit with 50# pump and 80#sending unit with an 80# pump.



Tom

missouriron
01-28-2022 @ 11:55 AM
Member
Posts: 27
Joined: Jun 2011
          
The part number seems to be correct for my engine. The attached photos show that 2 "horseshoes" are different. The wider one has one side plain with no gussets. While the other has gussets on both sides. I included a photo of the oil pump. It reaches to the bottom of the pan with its attached pickup screen. I assume that it is a 50# pump?

Ron

Ron

TomO
01-28-2022 @ 3:06 PM
Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The oil pump is a 50# pump.

If you think that the narrower piece will control the oil better, use it. Every source of a rear engine leak that I know of has been mentioned, did you see any signs of the front seal leaking and the oil traveling back or the drain plug leaking and traveling back to the cotter key?





Tom

<< previous || next >> 
PAGE: 1 2


NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.


EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1