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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / Convertible Window Regulator Re-Install to Window

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Convertible Window Regulator Re-Install to Window -- page: 1 2     pech33 06-15-2021 @ 6:34 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 84 Joined: Mar 2011 Just took the passenger door apart to replace the window channel. Channel is in place and as I was moving the window and regulator to put in the front vent window assembly, the regulator “rolls” out of the window frame. I now have two pieces to “marry” together and not much room to do it. What is the trick? Everything I have reinstalled is loose in case I need to take it out again. Some previous owner greased the h*ll out of the window runners so this is a real mess to deal with. Any window reinstall experts out there? TomO 06-16-2021 @ 8:50 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 Here is a link to the door window install section of the shop manual: http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_glassinstall-40-46_pg6.htm Here is a link to Van Pelts flathead information source. I am sure that you will find it a good place to go for answers and if you can't find them there, they can be answered on the Forum. http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_partsdrawings_links.htm Good luck. Tom pech33 06-16-2021 @ 9:17 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 84 Joined: Mar 2011 Thanks for the info on glass install, very helpful for the future. I figured out how the "wheels" work in the window runner. They are spring loaded and you use a screwdriver to retract them both and push them into the "runner" and the spring snaps back and keeps them in place. I think you could push them in without the screwdriver but either way works. Not such a big deal now that I thought about it all night and how I was going to get it back together. The new window channel was not that difficult to install. I had to redrill a hole for the new "rivet" in the channel, but other than that, it looks great, will post a picture when I am finished. Taking off the door panel was the worst, those clips don't like to pinch down and come right out. Pat’s 40 Ragtop trjford8 06-17-2021 @ 7:10 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4202 Joined: Oct 2009 There's an inexpensive tool to help remove the door panels. The "forked" tool captures the panel clip and then they will pop right out. You can find the tool at most automotive parts stores. TomO 06-17-2021 @ 7:27 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 I would clean out the grease that is in the channel and replace it with a thin film of SilGlyde Multi purpose lubricant. The grease shown in your photo will dry out and cake making the widow operation difficult. I did the window channels on my Merc in 2004 and the grease is still soft and doing its job. I used the NAPA SilGlyde. In sliding applications a thin film works much better that gobs of grease. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 6-17-21 @ 7:29 AM pech33 06-24-2021 @ 11:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 84 Joined: Mar 2011 OK, the new window runner is in. The window only goes to within 4" of the top. It will not close. It is not bound up, I am at the end of being able to turn the handle on the regulator. What's the trick? I looked at VanPelt's pages on window regulators, but there is no way (to me) to get the window within 1/8" of the top and still be able to slip the bottom of the glass into the regulator. Any help would be appreciated. Pat’s 40 Ragtop TomO 06-25-2021 @ 7:56 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 Check the length of the screws that hold the regulator to the door. One of them may be too long and hitting the regulator mechanism, preventing you from raising the window. I believe that the correct screws are 1/4" long and require a star washer. My Standard Parts catalog does not have P/N 350313-S2 listed. Tom pech33 06-26-2021 @ 7:09 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 84 Joined: Mar 2011 All five screws are the original ones with the star washer on them. It is not the screws. I may have to go to a glass shop and see if they have any “gray hairs” working there who have done this before. I still need to do the drivers side door. Pat’s 40 Ragtop TomO 06-26-2021 @ 8:51 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 Pat, have you tried to back out the screws to see if it has an effect on your problem? They may be the original screws, but the odds against them being in the the original holes is pretty high. My car spent last year in the body shop to repair damage sustained when a truck backed into me on the was to Auburn in 2019. This Spring, I tried to roll down the passenger side window and it was binding on something. When I tried to roll it up, it stopped just about where yours stopped. After taking off the door panel and checking things out, I determined that the regulator was hitting one of the screws. It was just 1/16" longer than the other screws and when moved to the other end of the regulator had no effect on the window movement. Tom pech33 06-26-2021 @ 2:25 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 84 Joined: Mar 2011 I will do that when I get it back from the shop. It’s in for a look at the transmission, second gear is growling on deceleration and the synchros act like they are 81 YO. It is the original trans, numbers match the frame. It has zero green paint on it so I don’t know the history of it. Side note. I was wondering why I can’t find any Phillips head screws anywhere, so I looked up the history of Phillips screws. Very interesting. Have you heard of Robertson screws? They are square drive. Henry Ford used them on the Model T and liked them so much he tried to become the sole supplier for the world (so the story goes). Mr Robertson’s answer was “screw you”, at least that’s what the author said, then he said he was just kidding but the answer was no! Cadillac was the first car company to go to Phillips head (1937). Pat’s 40 Ragtop This message was edited by pech33 on 6-26-21 @ 2:54 PM

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