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Posted By Discussion Topic: '40 Deluxe coupe runs rough warm -- page: 1 2 3     TomO 03-29-2021 @ 10:04 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7385 Joined: Oct 2009 Greg, 44 degrees dwell sound like the rubbing block is worn down on the points. Each set of points is set at 22.5 degrees of dwell and the overlap gives you 35 degrees. There are a couple of ways to set the points on the distributor without a distributor machine, but I only have confidence in the one that use a timing fixture like the KR Wilson or Bear timing wheel. Here is a link that may help you: https://myflatheadford.com/helmets-1932-1941-ignition/ You can get very close by setting both sets of points to .015". Tom Goofyfixer 03-29-2021 @ 6:06 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 9 Joined: Feb 2021 1931 Flamingo- I've checked with temp gun and get breading similar to yours. Kubes40- I flushed cooling system with standard cooling system flush chemical then refilled with vinegar and water and did it again. After thoroughly rinsing, I added 50/50 mix coolant and it seems to maybe run a little cooler...a little. I did discover, however that I have 160 degree thermostats and they look fairly new and are working. TomO- I don't know if there is a different dwell meter for 6v, but when I check with my old dwell meter with fresh batteries, I get 44 degrees dwell. Short of sending the distributor in to have it rebuilt, can I set it myself. I assure you, I am a very competent, experienced, professional mechanic. All- I just spoke with George Haney and posed the question to him about the distributor and overheating. He says he doesn't check dwell because his machine is set up to read different. He said as far as running hot, he had a '39 that always ran at the top of the gauge and never really overheated of boiled over. That's pretty much what mine seems to do. He doesn't seem to think it's a timing of point gap issue. Thanks for all your input! 40s 4ever Greg kubes40 03-24-2021 @ 8:00 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3577 Joined: Oct 2009 Greg, The cooling issue? Do test the temps in various places as has been duly advised. The very first thing I'd do after that is flush the cooling system after "soaking" it with white vinegar. You will be (no doubt) amazed at all the "yech" that comes out. The next thing? Either get the radiator rodded out or re-cored. It is doubtful you'll find a shop that will rod it out. A simply dip in their tanks will NOT do the trick. A new and proper split core is $500 even for me. I get one to two done per year locally. The fellow, a young guy, does the job beautifully. High volume pumps are not necessary unless one is attempting to place a band-aid over an underlying issue. Overflow tanks, 4# caps... not needed. I tend to do things once. Yes, perhaps time consuming and costly. However, how much time does it take to wait for a flatbed tow? What's that cost? I trust your goal is to have a car that you can place a decent amount of confidence in and enjoy. If I'm correct in that assumption, some of the things I've advised, although a bit of work and a bit of money, will go a long way in your future enjoyment. That sour taste comes from "I shoulda..." when you're stalled far from home. Mike "Kube" Kubarth TomO 03-24-2021 @ 7:51 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7385 Joined: Oct 2009 Greg, Do you have a tach dwell meter? If you do, connect it to the condenser terminal of the coil and check the dwell. It should be 34-36 degrees. If it is too long, it will affect the timing and that will lead to overheating. If it only overheats at speeds above 50 mph and your dwell is correct, the vacuum brake or the advance mechanism might not be working correctly. The only way to check this is on a distributor machine or an ignition scope. To check if the vacuum brake is causing the problem, back off the adusting screw all of the way and then turn it in 3 full turns. That should give you enough brake to prevent pinging and allow full advance at speed. You might consider sending your distributor to Cliff Green and have him install a new 11A advance mechanism. He will also check out the performance of your distributor on his distributor machine. He advertises in the V-8 Times classified section. Tom Goofyfixer 03-24-2021 @ 7:31 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 9 Joined: Feb 2021 I do have one of those. Didn't think to try it. Radiator appears original. Don't know much history on vehicle. I'm the 3rd owner. Original owner is dead and 2nd owner infirmed. Bought it from 2nd owner's nephew who doesn't know many particulars, just generalities. 40s 4ever Greg 1931 Flamingo 03-24-2021 @ 7:24 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 396 Joined: Nov 2019 Many recommend t/stats. Get a Temp Gun at Harbor Freight and check the temps on the engine with that (your gauge or sender may be bad), Aim the gun at the water pumps, heads , top of radiator, bottom of radiator. My 40 drops about 25-30* from top of rad to bottom and about 175 at the head(s). No t'stats. What condition is the radiator in?? Paul in CT Goofyfixer 03-24-2021 @ 6:59 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 9 Joined: Feb 2021 Here is the latest report. I ordered a ballast resistor from 3rd Generation Automotive that appeared to be the same style as original. I installed it the day after receiving and had 6v in and 3v out. So far so good. Started the engine and checked while running and had 4v out. Attempted to test drive but just up the street from my house, the clutch equalizer bracket broke and I had to limp home without being able to disengage the clutch. I got the broken part welded and yesterday, took it for a good, long test drive with no loss of power when fully warmed up. I will still install the George Haney coil when I get it and keep the black one for a spare. Next project, it gets very hot, all the way to the "H" on the gage after 15 miles or so at 55mph+ speeds. Don't know if there are thermostats or not but the coolant (yes, coolant, not water) appears to be fairly fresh, clean, full and there are no leaks. Pros and cons with thermostats? I've read that these generally run hot? 40s 4ever Greg 40 Coupe 03-19-2021 @ 4:51 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1801 Joined: Oct 2009 The new ignition components including resistors from Macs do not have a good reputation. The original Ford resistors are best, they measure 0.5 Ohm. The mounting of the resistor can be troublesome due to the brass or steel corroding. Also loose connections on the resistor or the ignition switch can lead to problems. Suggest you go through the ignition wiring looking for problems and correct NAPA has a very good condenser but the appearance is off due to size (smaller) FA49. It mounts to the coil and the distributor mounting bolt to the timing cover where the original condensers mount. IMO remove both of the distributor condensers you have . The condenser with the flat metal strap to one of the coil mounting screws is an improper ignition condenser. The one mounted to the coil mounting screw to the wire feeding voltage to the coil is a radio interference condenser. If it is bad your going to have the same problems as a bad ignition condenser. If you disconnect the radio interference condenser until you resolve the ignition problem it will be one less thing that could be causing the problem. Good Luck JayChicago 03-18-2021 @ 6:35 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 555 Joined: Jan 2016 “Greg, I tend to agree that 4v. would be better, however, 3v. should be fine.“ Yes. With a correct resistor, 3 volts (plus or minus a few tenths) at the coil is all you can expect to see with engine stopped. Later with engine turning, points opening/closing, it will jump up to about 4 volts. BTW, 6 volts at the coil indicates engine happened to stop with points open. Just bump the starter to get points closed. kubes40 03-17-2021 @ 5:29 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3577 Joined: Oct 2009 Greg, I tend to agree that 4v. would be better, however, 3v. should be fine. The fact that the car starts and runs well until warmed up, indicates to me coil and / or condenser. Of course there are always the "odd" little things that frustrate even the most senior of us flathead guys. Worn ignition switch contacts come to mind. I had one car that I swear turned my hair gray seemingly overnight. It would act exactly as if the coil was warming up and shorting out. EXACTLY. Turns out it was one bad spark plug. NEVER in my life had I experienced that. Can't say "never" to that any longer. I tend to go about my diagnosis very methodically. I firmly believe you are going about this as I would. When you get the Haney coil(s) back, install that (that only) with your existing condenser. If that doesn't do the trick, THEN install the new condenser. Mike "Kube" Kubarth

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