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Discussion Topic:
coil adapter
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fenbach |
01-28-2016 @ 10:22 AM
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Member
Posts: 235
Joined: Dec 2009
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can I use a '53 coil on a '36 with a coil adapter? and would I need to use or remove the inline resistor? NAPA Part Number: MPE IC7SB
This message was edited by fenbach on 1-28-16 @ 10:27 AM
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carcrazy |
01-28-2016 @ 8:14 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1980
Joined: Oct 2009
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Yes, you can use the '53 Ford 6V coil with the 1936 coil adapter. Do not use the original resistor. The '53 coil does not need one.
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40 Coupe |
01-29-2016 @ 4:42 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1801
Joined: Oct 2009
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You can have the 36 coil rebuilt so it operates better than new. no need for an adaptor or another coil to mount.
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supereal |
02-13-2016 @ 3:29 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The adapters have a habit if causing problems related to poor contact with the rotor. Skip Haney does an excellent job of rebuilding coils with modern insulation.
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drkbp |
02-15-2016 @ 4:42 AM
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New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Aug 2010
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Do you have the early or late '36 distributor? I didn't know there was an adaptor for the two hole coil. Ken
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fenbach |
02-17-2016 @ 8:20 PM
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Member
Posts: 235
Joined: Dec 2009
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ken, I have a "late" 2-hole distributor with a flattop coil and haven't found an adapter for it, nor do I know of one either. I was contemplating an "upgrade" to a '37 distributor with an adapter and a separate coil. i'm putting a transistor between the points and the coil. an easy matter with the adapter. for now, I mounted an empty coil body between the distributor and the coil to separate the pigtail spring from the points. my skip haney flattop rebuild works fine. but so does my original coil. i'd still like to know how it compares to skip's. maybe skip's just withstands the heat better?? bob
This message was edited by fenbach on 2-18-16 @ 2:36 PM
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drkbp |
02-19-2016 @ 6:37 AM
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New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Aug 2010
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Bob, I've been driving my '35 Cabriolet for 42 years and coils are just not a major concern when you have one and a spare like you already have. I do carry one spare coil and condenser. They were in the glove box yesterday when I drove to the office. I have a fine late '36 flat top distributor/coil setup which runs great but it sits on the shelf. Years ago I bought a 3-hole adaptor and it worked fine too. If your plain old round auto parts coil has an internal resistor, wire to batt side of the resistor. Otherwise, to the red wire from the resistor. Adaptor style or extra coil, the road-side fix is in my glove box. Unless you already have the '37, I suggest the 3-hole biscuit distributor, early '36, and coil. Looks correct, if you are concerned about that, and the coils are easier to get than the flat tops. Even last year I bought both NOS on ebay for a rather nominal amount. I have no excuse for doing that but nobody else would buy them so I did. Mr. Haney rebuilds the coils and water pumps and all the folks that go that way seem to be very satisfied. The 160 thermostats for '33-'36 is the item that is the really hard run/cool item to find. Found a carton of those NIB three years ago. Just keep an eye out and NOS stuff comes up even nowadays. Ken in Texas
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TomO |
02-20-2016 @ 5:14 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7386
Joined: Oct 2009
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Bob, Why do you want to add a transistor to your ignition system? The Ford dual point system ensures full coil saturation at all rpms on a stock engine and the points are more reliable than any electronic system.
Tom
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fenbach |
02-20-2016 @ 8:10 PM
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Member
Posts: 235
Joined: Dec 2009
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tom, why the transistor? too much free time on my hands! and i'm curious to see if the car runs better with the transistor. my car [with a stock engine] runs just fine with ford dual points. with a transistor doing the switching, the points won't arc and will never pit, not that i drive enough miles for that to matter. of course, I know that "points will always get you home." which is why I am using little connectors on the wires to the transistor. I can unplug it and reconnect the original configuration in a matter of seconds. bob
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