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Discussion Topic:
1939 deluxe wiring problem
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cappy39 |
01-17-2010 @ 6:08 PM
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Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Jan 2010
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Hello Guys I am the proud new owner of a 39 deluxe tudor. I promptly went out and spent a small fortune on it. I am working on putting in the new dash wiring harness, and I need HELP. I replaced the resistor/fuse panel. I replaced the on off switch mechanism, new solenoid, all new cables etc. The motor turns over quite well, but I cannot get power to the coil/distributor. I feel like there is something I need to do on the gauges, but I am not sure. Any advise? Is there a ground on the instruments? Thanks for the help Mark
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ford38v8 |
01-17-2010 @ 9:10 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2883
Joined: Oct 2009
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Mark, Your new ignition switch, or your new resistor may be the cause of your lack of power at the coil. Nothing else is in that circuit. If you have a voltmeter, check for power going into and out of those two units. Sorry to say that imported parts are often, in Henry Ford's words, "spurious".
Alan
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cappy39 |
01-17-2010 @ 9:25 PM
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Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Jan 2010
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Thanks Alan Is there a way to bypass them? Mark
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cappy39 |
01-17-2010 @ 9:26 PM
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Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Jan 2010
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Oh yeh I am also not getting any power to the stater button.
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TomO |
01-18-2010 @ 7:36 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7386
Joined: Oct 2009
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You may have the wiring to the starter solenoid backwards. The battery connection goes on the terminal closest to the drivers side of the car. This terminal also has the feed for the power to the rest of the car. The terminal closest to the passenger side of the solenoid should only have the starter cable attached.
Tom
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deluxe40 |
01-18-2010 @ 9:39 AM
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Cappy39 - You shouldn't expect power to the starter button. It just grounds the wire coming from the solenoid which activates it and the starter. (You did say the motor turns over, so the starter button must be doing its job.) You can hot wire the car by running a wire from the negative pole of the battery directly to the coil, but you risk coil damage in doing so unless you include a resistor. You might try using the resistor you removed from the car in the hot wire - it's probably OK. Better yet, get a volt meter (or just a 6v light bulb with a couple of wires attached). Disconnect the wire at the coil (to protect the points) and turn on the ignition switch. Then check for voltage from ground to: the negative pole of the battery, the solenoid, the input and output of the ignition switch, the input and output of the dash resistor and the input to the coil. Let us know what you find.
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cappy39 |
01-18-2010 @ 9:56 AM
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Member
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Joined: Jan 2010
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Hey guys thanks for the suggestions. I can turn the motor using the button on the bottom of the solenoid. could the new solenoid be defective? should I purchase a toggle switch and bypass the original on off? should I get a three pole switch. I haven't been out there to check with the voltage meter. It is raining here in so cal....we don't know how to handle it since it happens so infrequently.
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supereal |
01-18-2010 @ 10:07 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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As mentioned above, I suspect you have the starter cable and battery cable reversed at the solenoid. If you have a solenoid with only one small terminal that connects to the starter button, the solenoid coil receives battery power internally, and that terminal must "find" ground thru the starter button. If you connect a wire between the small terminal and ground, and the engine doesn't crank, reverse the cables. If you have a "universal" type solenoid with two small terminals, one goes to the button, and the other needs a link to the battery side of the solenoid. Also, be sure you have a starter button with only one terminal. If you have a repro with two terminals, one side connects to the solenoid, the other to ground. The one terminal button gets its ground thru the body of the button to the dash panel.
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admiral1960 |
01-19-2010 @ 10:58 AM
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Joined: Oct 2009
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If you have a cell phone and are willing to go out to the car and check things while on the phone I would be happy to attempt to help you.
Allen E Michler AW1, USNR (10 yrs) LTC, TC, USAR (29 yrs)
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cappy39 |
01-19-2010 @ 3:38 PM
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Member
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Hey thanks. I may take you up on that, but I won't get a chance to work on it until this weekend, weather permitting. Mark
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