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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 40 Ford clutch shudder

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 40 Ford clutch shudder -- page: 1 2 3 4     bwhitworth 07-28-2013 @ 2:02 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 59 Joined: Nov 2010 1940 Ford When I let the clutch out there is a shudder in low and second gear. Is there an adjustment to correct the problem? Or do I need to replace the disk? Thanks for your help. Bob 42wagon 07-28-2013 @ 4:16 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 584 Joined: Oct 2009 Bob Clutch shudder is a problem that Henry recognized but was never able to successfully correct. The basic problem is the engine shifts back and forth on its mounts as you engage the clutch. Ford provided anti-chatter rods but these really didn't cure the problem. A number of things can be done to minimize the problem. If your clutch disk is relatively new I would not replace it. If it is old replacement may help. What is the condition of the motor mounts? There are two at the front of the engine and one behind the transmission. These should be new and the bolts properly tightened. This will minimize the problem but it will never go completely away. Old Henry 07-28-2013 @ 4:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 738 Joined: Apr 2010 I jumped to this thread with interest as I have brand new clutch in my 47 that chatters worse than the old clutch did. Pretty annoying. Hope it improves as things wear down but after 2600 miles it sure hasn't. New engine mounts plenty tight. Old Henry (The older I get, the better old looks.) kubes40 07-28-2013 @ 4:35 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3374 Joined: Oct 2009 As has been previously stated, numerous things can be done to eliminate shudder. It CAN be eliminated. I have replaced more clutches than I care to recall. NEVER has a vehicle shuddered once the complete and necessary repairs were performed. There are two front engine mounts and TWO rear (transmission) mounts. All four should be of good quality rubber and in good condition. The rods that go from the frame to the engine should be straight and tight. When replacing the clutch, be certain the flywheel is true and not glazed. If it is not true (flat) and / or is glazed, shuddering can occur. Placing a new clutch atop a flywheel that has not been trued can cause more problems than if the old (partially grabbing) clutch had been left in place. Be certain the clutch is not contaminated. Shudder as you describe can also be occurring due to a worn input shaft bearing, a worn pilot bearing and / or worn thrust washers within the transmission. Mike "Kube" Kubarth This message was edited by kubes40 on 7-28-13 @ 4:38 PM bwhitworth 07-29-2013 @ 5:14 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 59 Joined: Nov 2010 The motor mounts and transmission mounts are new and are tight. The bolts along the side of the trans that bolt into the bell housing are also tight. Bob 40 Coupe 07-29-2013 @ 6:07 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1650 Joined: Oct 2009 If you do not have the Anti-chatter rods get a pair and install. Watch what happens to the engine when the clutch is depressed and released if it is moving for and aft the trick is to get it to not move. Also the original pressure plate has a spring plate between the friction linings. The plate slightly separates the linings, this brings the clutch in smoothly and without jerking. If your clutch plate doesn't have the spring plate you may want to change. TomO 07-29-2013 @ 7:56 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7244 Joined: Oct 2009 Another cause of clutch chatter is a warped pressure plate or Mal-adjusted release fingers. Place a straight edge across the pressure plate cover and check the distance to each of the release fingers. The distance should be equal within .005. When replacing the clutch or the pressure plate, put wedges between the release fingers and the cover to relive pressure on the clutch disk. This will help to prevent warping the cover when you tighten the bolts. Old Henry, the rear motor mount on your postwar Ford needs to be made from very firm rubber. If it gets oil soaked, it will cause chatter. If the motor mounts are good, you will have to examine the pressure plate and the flywheel for the cause of your chatter. It will probably never get better on its own. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 7-29-13 @ 8:00 AM supereal 07-29-2013 @ 9:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 It is disappointing to replace the clutch and find that the shudder is still there, or even worse. The above suggestions cover most of the remedies, but the root cause is that the disk facings are now an "organic" material. This was done when asbestos was discovered to be a health hazard. The old time cure for shudder or slipping was to place the front bumper against a tree or other immovable object and burn off the oil or other substances on the disk. If you do that now, is is likely the disk will be ruined. The trick is to engage the clutch as quickly as you can. This takes plenty of practice, particularly since the clutch pedal disappeared from most cars years ago, and clutching became a lost art. carcrazy 07-29-2013 @ 1:22 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1597 Joined: Oct 2009 Here is some information for solving clutch chatter from my Crosley friends. Try a few squirts of white vinegar or Fuller's Earth on clutch plate. Several applications may be required till chatter goes away. fla48 07-29-2013 @ 6:47 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 128 Joined: Nov 2011 I am having the same problem as Old Henry. When I rebuilt my 48, I replaced the disk, pressure plate, bearing , bushing and all three motor mounts. I even pulled the new clutch and pressure plate, and sent them out for a rebuild. No help. Later had the flywheel resurfaced. No help. The only way I have been able to stop the chatter is to keep the engine as close to idle as possible as I rapidly let the clutch out. I also get chatter when I down shift to second. I have been thinking about re-installing the old original unit, that never had one bit of chatter.

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