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Posted By Discussion Topic: Electronic Distributors -- page: 1 2     StewyQ 02-07-2012 @ 11:48 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 16 Joined: Jun 2010 Thanks Stroker you have told me what I wanted to hear. A good Mallory coil with the crab distributor is what I will use on this motor. Thanks for all the replys. Stewart NZ trjford8 02-06-2012 @ 7:31 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4355 Joined: Oct 2009 In addition to all the other comments the electronic distributor can fail if you have an electrical spike from the generator or alternator.I built a 32 roadster(fiberglass) with Buick V-6 motor. One day the alternator failed and sent a "spike" through the electical system and the motor died. The "spike" cooked the module in the distributor. With a point style distributor this would not have happened. Stay with the point style distributor,you'll be happy you did. Stroker 02-06-2012 @ 5:39 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 Stewart: I built a 281 inch motor (4-inch stroke) in the late 50's with Edelbrock heads, Edelbrock 3 carb w/3-97 Strombergs and an Isky 404 cam. I used the "crab" with a Mallory coil and never had ignition problems. The distributor is very well made, so I'd guess a high quality coil should meet your requirements. For a while, I ran a Spalding converted Lincoln Zephyr dual-coil set-up, but couldn't see any improvement over the crab/Mallory combination. Have your distributor set-up by someone qualified on a Sun machine, and I don't think you'll have any problems. StewyQ 02-06-2012 @ 5:16 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 16 Joined: Jun 2010 Thanks for the replys , I am just building the motor for my 39 coupe , it has a 4 inch crank ,the new Edelbrock heads, twin carbs and Isky max 1 cam , so it is quite a mild road motor ,I am keen to keep the stock crab Distributor If I can get enough spark from it, as I have the timing gear to set them up , also I am running 12v. I had heard the the electronic distributors can give trouble so I thought I would ask you guys.As there is no substitute for experience. thanks for your help . Stewart . Stroker 02-06-2012 @ 2:23 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1460 Joined: Oct 2009 The advent of high performance ignitions (both aftermarket and OEM) came as a result of greater demands imposed by higher compression ratios (it takes more amperage to overcome higher cylinder pressures), higher rpm's giving less coil saturation time. With the progress being made in engine design pushing the envelope, the coil and mechanical points gave way to higher energy systems. Since we are essentially a group dedicated to preservation, our flatheads remain frozen in time, and in its' time, the Ford dual point ignition was the best there was. Today it is still more than adequate for a stock engine. Since we are not hot-rodding these engines, it is pointless (pun intended) to provide more spark energy than the engine requires. A really "hot" CDI ignition will fire a dangerously lean mixture that the stock ignition would balk at, thereby masking a potentially expensive condition that could result in burned valves. If everything is as it should be (cam timing, ignition timing & fuel mixture), the stock ignition works fine. supereal 02-06-2012 @ 9:31 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 That is a common problem. Old cars have a poorly regulated electrical system which interferes with the solid state devices. Newer vehicles use a direct connection between the alternator's built in regulator and the battery that senses the need for charging independently of the electrical system as a whole. It was made necessary to allow the ECM (computer control) to function properly. The only advantage of an electronic conversion is the lack of mechanical points. Given that stock points last for thousands of miles if properly set and maintained, most lightly driven collector cars go for years without distributor attention. deluxe40 02-06-2012 @ 9:22 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 413 Joined: Oct 2009 I recently removed the electronic distributor from my '34 in favor of the older style ('42) distributor. When the car sat for a couple of weeks and the battery was not at full capacity the engine would die if I touched the brake pedal or turned on any other electrical accessory (horn, radio, turn indicators, head lights.) A newly rebuilt alternator and a new battery did not solve the problem, but changing coil and the distributor did. (I had to change the coil because the electronic distributor used a 12v coil without the dash resistor (6v car) -- and yes, the coil could have been the problem.) supereal 02-06-2012 @ 7:33 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Electronic distributors are a solution in search of a problem. supereal 02-06-2012 @ 7:33 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Electronic distributors are a solution in search of a problem. TomO 02-06-2012 @ 6:32 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7385 Joined: Oct 2009 I don't know of any electronic distributor that will give the reliability of the stock distributor. The dual point Ford distributor is one of the best there is. Tom

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