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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / FUEL PUMP

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Posted By Discussion Topic: FUEL PUMP -- page: 1 2     46fordnut 07-19-2011 @ 7:07 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 332 Joined: Oct 2009 very little fuel gets in to the glass bowl if any. took line off carb side ran 12 oz of fuel very little came into the can i was using . im goin to run some test to see what is going on ill try the vaccum test and go from there. 100 horse running wild supereal 07-19-2011 @ 9:50 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 As the pump partially fills the bowl, then stops, I'd be sure that the gas cap is properly vented. JM 07-19-2011 @ 9:26 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 823 Joined: Oct 2009 Another thing I just thought about for you to check.....this may sound elementary but make sure the little hook on the inner end of the pump arm is properly hooked into the eye of the shaft that's connected to the bottom of the diaphragm. No hooky no pumpy :^) JM TomO 07-19-2011 @ 7:27 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7386 Joined: Oct 2009 46fordnut, Connect your vacuum gauge to the input of the fuel pump and crank the engine. The gauge should rise to 10 inches of vacuum and take more than 60 seconds to leak back down to 0. If you do not develop any vacuum, the glass bowl gasket is leaking or the linkage is worn and not operating the diaphragm. If you get some vacuum and it leaks down fast, the input valve is leaking or the glass bowl gasket is leaking. A new fuel pump can be purchased for less than $40 at Rockauto.com, around $50 from Speedway Motors. I prefer the Speedway Motors pumps as I have had better luck with them. Tom JM 07-19-2011 @ 6:21 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 823 Joined: Oct 2009 The fuel pump rebuild kits from MAC's actually come from Joblot so I was told. I rebuilt several glass bowl pumps with these kits four years ago and have been using one on my '35 driver for four years with no problems. Here are some things to check out on your car/fuel pump: Make sure the two valves inside the pump are installed correctly and have good gaskets between valves and lower casting of pump. Get one of the new hoses (with or without check valve) that are advertised in V8 Times as "Get Hosed". They will hold up well to the new gas. Make sure your push rod is moving up and down a total of 0.200". Make sure there is not too much play between the pump arm and the hardened pin that it pivots on. Check the function of your pump by disconnecting the fuel line where it attaches to the Carb and let it pump gas into a can as you crank engine with ignition switch in off position. Make sure you do not have gasket that is too thick between fuel pump stand and intake manifold. Make sure the cup on the end of FP arm is on top of the push rod. It's also good to put a dab of grease on top of FP push rod to help prevent wear. Make sure all the screws that clamp the diaphragm between the two housing halves are properly torqued. Also, if you buy a new FP from any of the various suppliers, make sure it is not pumping with too much pressure to the Carb. Some of the manufacturers are using a spring under the diaphragm that produces much more pressure than the needle valve in the carburetor can withstand. This will cause flooding and/or increase chances of a fire hazard. JM This message was edited by JM on 7-19-11 @ 11:38 AM 37 Coupe 07-19-2011 @ 5:37 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 366 Joined: Oct 2009 I have had issue after issue with the sediment bowl 59AB fuel pumps since getting my 59AB running late 2007. I used rebuilt pumps from known and supposedly guru pump builders that again supposedly used ethanol proof diaphragms,I have had used ethanol proof kits and had problems,couple times home on a rollback because even after changing to another rubuilt fuel pump some of the rubber from fuel pump was now in carburetor which has now led to constantly running a filter from fuel pump to carb which I hate the look. Two years ago after my last ride home on AAA rollback I finally gave up on running rebuilds and found out NAPA sells a new USA made fuel pump or at least says it is. My thinking was surely if this fuel pump has some hint of a known manufacturer they may have truely kept up with ethanol proof tech. So far so good, 2009-2011 same pump,still have not figured out entire pedigree of pump, think Airtex is mentioned and I was told Carter owns them but not sure,think also Federal Mogul is on label or instructions somewhere. Anyway I agree, go with a new Napa one,keep the rebuild for a spare,and make sure you have a good fuel pump push rod. This message was edited by 37 Coupe on 7-19-11 @ 5:40 AM 46fordnut 07-18-2011 @ 8:24 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 332 Joined: Oct 2009 im planing on change the oil and filter shortly and go over all else . she will be fine . i promise . i change oil at least once a year with the filter regardless how many mile i drove. unless i hit 3,000 thats different. the flathead wont die on my shift! my tank was cleaned just about 2 years ago.lines are newer put them in 2006. 100 horse running wild supereal 07-18-2011 @ 7:49 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 At the risk of repeating myself, I suspect your fuel line is nearly blocked with rust. Since the arrival of "oxygenated" fuel, the problem has become more common. A weak pump simply can't pull hard enough to keep the sediment bowl filled. A blocked line can produce fuel pressure, but not enough quantity to run the vehicle. ford38v8 07-18-2011 @ 7:28 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2883 Joined: Oct 2009 The second cork is for the top cover of the pump. You'd better change your oil before you start the engine again. You're dangerous! Alan 46fordnut 07-18-2011 @ 5:54 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 332 Joined: Oct 2009 ok here we go...i can only run the car off of what is in the carb. fuel pump barly fills up the glass bowl. to line off the carb no fuel comes out when i add to bowl and get engine to run. lines are clear no blockage no leaks at any lines . push rod moves as it should. the only thing i dont understand is when i get the rebuild kits it come with two cork gaskets . they look like they go into the glass bowl .. but the glass bowl only can take one at a time. even ran a different line to a gas can pump never took any fuel from it. there hens i think i have a fuel pump issue. p.s found leaking power valve and leaking main jet seals. using different carb that has no issues like the one that was on the car. do have light smell of gas in oil. 100 horse running wild This message was edited by 46fordnut on 7-18-11 @ 5:57 PM

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