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Discussion Topic:
Replacing Head Studs
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6lucky13 |
07-09-2011 @ 3:58 PM
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Member
Posts: 57
Joined: Jun 2011
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Hello, I’m new to this forum and this is my first post. However, I have enjoyed the discussions and the wealth of technical information posted here for some time. I am currently replacing the head studs on a 1937 engine and have a couple questions: 1. I plan on using Permatex #2 on the stud threads. Is this a suitable sealant or should I use an alternative such as Lok-Tite Blue? 2. I assume that the studs are inserted to the shoulder with no visible threads showing. Is there a special tool or technique for installing the studs? Thanks for the feedback! Kerry
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ford38v8 |
07-09-2011 @ 5:55 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2883
Joined: Oct 2009
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Lucky, Either product will work for you. If you get coolant stains running down the head from a stud, you'll know you forgot to use thread sealant. Use two nuts tightened against each other to run the stud into the block.
Alan
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supereal |
07-09-2011 @ 6:14 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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In addition to Alan's advice, obtain a thread chasing tap to clear the stud holes. Don't use a common threading tap, as it will enlarge the holes in the fragile cast iron. Don't forget that the studs are three different sizes. It helps to lay them out before you proceed.
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6lucky13 |
07-10-2011 @ 8:20 AM
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Member
Posts: 57
Joined: Jun 2011
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Alan and Supereal...thanks for your comments. I will use a thread chasing, not cutting, die to clean the threads before installation of the studs. My next question might be obvious but...since I will torque the head nuts incrementally to 60 ft-lbs, I suppose I should torque the studs to 60 ft-lbs also. Correct?
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Stroker |
07-10-2011 @ 8:59 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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With a stud, the gasket clamping force is supplied by the fine-threaded stud to nut assembly. The coarse thread stud to block interface is just an anchor for the stud. You want the stud firmly seated, but it doesn't need to be torqued, just installed tight enough that it stays in place during disassembly. Torquing a stud to 60 ft-lbs would run the risk of stripping the fragile threads in your block.
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6lucky13 |
07-10-2011 @ 3:23 PM
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Member
Posts: 57
Joined: Jun 2011
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Stroker...Thanks for the enlightenment and advice!
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Stroker |
07-11-2011 @ 3:39 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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This club has some wonderful resources if you are willing to explore a bit. I was just browsing the RG-1 website, and found a Ford rebuilding manual for 37-41 engines. On the subject of studs, the "Ford bible" says to "install the studs so that no threads are showing". To further elucidate my admonition regarding not torquing the studs, it confirms my long-standing understanding that all you need to do is make sure they are all the way in the block. Thanks to you, I was able to enlighten my 71 year old "narrow" mind. I'd certainly advise anyone pondering questions to visit this site. Just go to Regional Clubs, and visit RG-1 (California, Castro Valley). They have some wonderful stuff available on their site; (Just ask 38fordV8).
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