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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Brake Pedal Free Play

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Brake Pedal Free Play -- page: 1 2     tbirdhandyman 06-21-2011 @ 3:24 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 51 Joined: Oct 2009 This topic was brought up on a discussion from silverchief titled "SLUGGISH" Please read this great discussion. From Tom O and Supereal's great imput, I did some checking on my '41 Mercury. This car had no or very little free play. From the M/F/L Service Bulletin dated 11-18-1938: #1: It is not necessary to remove the clevis pin from the pedal rod in order to adjust the pedal lash on any of these models. Loosen the lock nut (1/2") on the pedal rod #91A-2143. #2: Adjust the length of the pedal rod by turning the back section (11/16") of the rod until the correct amount of clearance exists. I turned the rod toward the front of car to correct my "no free play". In their operation #2140-A on page 4 of subject #2140 they list the measurment to be 1/4" to 1/2". I am embarrassed that I had overlooked this important adjustment. While setting the free play, I noticed that there was NO brake pedal return spring (#99A-7523) attached to the pedal. I looked at my pre-restoration photos and can not find this spring. If someone could post a photo of this spring showing shape and its attaching points, I would be most greatful. Another problem I was having is terrible gas mileage. With 6:50 X 16 tires and a 1:354 rear end, I am only getting 14.6 MPG. I will let you know if this improves along with overall performance. Robert E. Tbirdhandyman supereal 06-21-2011 @ 5:05 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Robert: the way you adjust the pedal free play depends on the model. At least one inch is required to allow the fluid to return to the reservoir. As for gas mileage, fourteen isn't bad. That is about what my '47 does most f the time, overall. I run my tires at 35psi, above the recommended pressure. It doesn't affect handling, but seems to increase mpg a bit . -Almost Fifteen with a 3:54 is actually pretty good. I run a 3:78 and an overdrive, and don't do better. TomO 06-22-2011 @ 8:05 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7386 Joined: Oct 2009 The spring is available from many parts vendors. It attaches to the clevis pin for the master cylinder adjustment rod and goes forward to a small hole in the frame. If you have a parts catalog, a drawing is shown with the brake pedal. There are many things that determine the gas mileage. Speed has the most effect on mileage. If you drive your Mercury at a steady 35 MPH you could get as much as 22 MPG at 70 you could drop to as little as 10 MPG. Tire inflation, brake drag, front end alignment, engine condition, spark timing, carburetor condition, distributor condition, clutch adjustment and the nut behind the steering wheel all affect the mileage. 14 MPG is not bad for general around town driving or driving at highway speeds. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 6-22-11 @ 8:17 AM trjford8 06-22-2011 @ 7:25 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4356 Joined: Oct 2009 Napa Auto Parts has a good strong brake/clutch return spring. You can also find that spring in the "Help" packages of the chain stores that sell auto parts. TomO 06-23-2011 @ 7:19 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7386 Joined: Oct 2009 Robert, I forgot to add that I really like your 41 Merc convertible. You have done a great job in restoring it. Tom tbirdhandyman 06-23-2011 @ 12:39 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 51 Joined: Oct 2009 I adjusted my brake pedal free play to 1" as suggested. I then adjusted all four wheels so they rotated freely. I lowered the car, and drove back and forth in the garage applying the brakes a few times. I could tell that the brakes were dragging again. I raised the front wheels, and the L F would not turn at all. The R F would turn with a lot of pulling on it. I then opened the bleeder valve on each wheel, and nothing came out. I removed the valve and some fluid eased out. Nothing under pressure. The wheel would not rotate with the valve out. I readjusted the front shoes, pressed the brake pedal a few times and tried to rotate the wheels again. They were dragging, but not as bad as before. I must have wheel cylinder problems or something in those units. I am going out of town for a few days, so I will remove the drums next week and let you know what I find. Thanks for your imput. Robert E. Tbirdhandyman supereal 06-23-2011 @ 3:09 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Robert: that is an indication that the holding valve in your master cylinder is faulty. The purpose of this valve is to maintain a bit of pressure so you don't have to pump the brakes each time you us them. Replacement is the "fix" ." trjford8 06-23-2011 @ 7:55 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4356 Joined: Oct 2009 Tbirdhandyman, along with all the other good advice, I read your post and did not see that you replaced or checked the wheel cylinders. If the cylinders are old they have a tendency to corrode fron sitting. This causes the pistons in the wheel cylinders to sieze up. I would also check the wheel cylinders along with the master cylinder. tbirdhandyman 06-30-2011 @ 10:59 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 51 Joined: Oct 2009 ALL brake parts were new 2 years and 1950 miles ago. Front wheels were still locked up after 6 days of vacation. Removed Dr. Ft. w/c and found the rear shoe was very hard to move @ bottom anchor pin, even after loosening attaching nut. I will check for interference at this point. The internal spring was off center on the rear cup (see photo). The bores of both w/c were as new, as was the master cylinder. I could not see any problem inside the m/c, but will install a new kit, as with the w/c. The USA made w/c had steel pistons. The old w/c had Alum. The old Wagner w/c grove for the brake shoes were 0.180" wide on large bore, and 0.168" on the small bore. The replacement groves were much larger, being 0.312" & 0.230" respectfully. In the photo, the two upper pistons are steel & notice the wide opening for the brake shoes. Bottom left is an original alum. piston. Bottom right is an original cup with a metal insert to prevent what happened to the cup in USA made replacement. There was slight leakage from this cup. You can also see how the spring was off-center when I took unit apart. The brake lining also was pretty well worn. Should I use woven or molded lining to rivet onto my Ford shoes? Rober E. Tbirdhandyman supereal 06-30-2011 @ 2:41 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Robert: The brake parts look typical. A critical part of the system is the condition of the bore of the cylinders. Years ago, we use to hone out any signs of pits or corrosion. Now, it is simpler to replace them. If any wheel cylinder is stuck, it is likely that it is aluminum, and some moisture has reached them. You should also check the condition of all three rubber brake hoses. Sometimes the inside collapses, forming a sort of check valve. On full brake rebuilds, we replace the hoses and cylinders, as well as all the brake springs. We prefer riveted linings, rather than bonded, as often the bonded linings are too hard for good braking. They are becoming more difficult to find, and to have them riveted, if they are not furnished on the shoes. If you find any obvious wear inside the drums, have them lightly turned to restore the surface, and be sure the new linings fit the drums for full contact.

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