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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / '34 Distributor Questions

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Posted By Discussion Topic: '34 Distributor Questions -- page: 1 2     carguy 11-15-2010 @ 3:48 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks Supereal for the suggestions. In my past frustration with my problems I installed a new tank from Drake fearing that my original tank was contributing to my problems. I now do run an inline filter prior to the pump and a glass bowl type filter between the pump and the carb. And I'm a big believer in fuel stabilizer, particularly with today's fuels supereal 11-15-2010 @ 2:03 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Most of the deposits found in carbs consist of varnish produced by the evaporation of fuel, and rust/dirt from an aging fuel tank. "Minerals" suggest something else to me. We haven't seen a completely clogged carb such as described unless the car sat for a period of years and the casting deteriorated. In any case, I'd install a good in-line filter to catch any crud in the tank, and a dose of a fuel storage protector to reduce deposit formation. carguy 11-15-2010 @ 1:24 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Keystone, Max told me that one of the high speed air-bleeds and both of the emulsion tubes, along with one idle jet were clogged solid, as well as a lot of mineral buildup in the enrichment circuits. I hope this means something to you. It's way above my pay grade. {:^) I will say that the rebuilt carb looks almost like new and performs flawlessly. Keystone 34 3w 11-14-2010 @ 9:40 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 23 Joined: Aug 2010 Carguy, Its nice to see that your car runs fine now. Having driven three seperate 34s over the last 23 years gives an owner a hint of little issues that can arise. Did you ask the rebuilder what was found as cause for being too rich on one side (like loose jet or emultion tube)? I have seen this before and am just curious about your cause. carguy 11-12-2010 @ 6:44 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Here's a follow-up on this. Those who suspected the carb to be the problem were right. I checked the spark and had a strong 1/2" arc with every wire when put close to a head bolt. Skip suggested that I send my carb to uncle Max for a rebuild. I did this and also purchased a new '97 so I would be sure to have a good carb and a good backup. My '34 now runs like it should. Thanks to all who responded. 40 Coupe 10-17-2010 @ 8:13 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1801 Joined: Oct 2009 I sincerely doubt your car would start on only 4 cyl. so you must be getting some spark to all of the plugs. I too suspect the carb has a problem. With the car running at idle pull one plug wire at a time and place it close to the block to see if you can get an even spark to jump on every plug wire. then place the spark plugs in 1 into 2 and see if this makes a difference or the problem is still on #1 do this with every cyl with a problem, and you can eliminate the spark plugs. If the problems stay put then turn your attention to the carb. 40 Coupe 10-17-2010 @ 8:12 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1801 Joined: Oct 2009 I sincerely doubt your car would start on only 4 cyl. so you must be getting some spark to all of the plugs. I too suspect the carb has a problem. With the car running at idle pull one plug wire at a time and place it close to the block to see if you can get an even spark to jump on every plug wire. then place the spark plugs in 1 into 2 and see if this makes a difference or the problem is still on #1 do this with every cyl with a problem, and you can eliminate the spark plugs. If the problems stay put then turn your attention to the carb. Keystone 34 3w 10-16-2010 @ 2:45 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 23 Joined: Aug 2010 Carguy, don`t overlook the possibility that the carb on the rh. barrel side could be too rich and fouling the four plugs. The 34 intake is a dual plane design and each of the two barrels feed four cylinders. If the main jet is loose on the right side, this would allow too much fuel to feed the cylinders you describe. If you say it idles fine I would think that you have spark on all eight. Also the leaner the mixture the more power you get. supereal 10-16-2010 @ 9:23 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I was referring to the sides of the distributor, not the engine. Ill fitting caps are becoming common. The clearance of the rotor tips to the cap terminals is critical for proper operation. drkbp 10-15-2010 @ 6:04 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: Aug 2010 carguy, 1, 4, 6 and 7 run off the back tab of the rotor as others have already said. There is a small slot in the distributor housing that the caps should fit down into. I would undo the bail and be sure the caps are down in the slot properly. If not, they will be lifted away from the rotor on the back side contact points and the cap covers will also be lifted away. The caps are the same for both sides and have the numbers for both banks on them. If that doesn't get it, I would drop the distributor out and be sure the rotor is very clean at the rear tab. Hope this helps, Ken

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