Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Speedometer Cable: What did I do wrong?

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion << previous || next >>

Posted By Discussion Topic: Speedometer Cable: What did I do wrong? -- page: 1 2     Steves46 09-20-2010 @ 5:47 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Yesterday, I finally got around to installing a replacement speedometer cable and sheath in my 46 Ford. After connecting both ends and ensuring there were no sharp kinks, I took it for a drive and after traveling a few feet, I heard a snapping noise. When I looked at the connection point at the transmission area, the sheath had a loop and snapped the cable! Obviously, something caused the cable to bind. When I made the installation, I tightened the screw cap; should I have left it a bit loose so the cable could have movement? I am beginning to think the cable was too long and I forced too much inside the drive mechanism. I would like to find an NOS piece this way I can be pretty sure that the length will be correct. Before I go through this again, is there a correct way to install these? I am thinking next time; I will remove the cable, install the sheath first and then run the cable through. Open to any suggestions. Many thanks! supereal 09-20-2010 @ 9:28 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Most replacement inner speedo cables must be trimmed a bit before installation by matching to the old one. If it is too long, it will kink when in place. The best practice is to replace both the inner cable and sheath at the same time, being sure to lube the inner cable as you insert it into the sheath. The whole assembly is not much more expansive than the inner cable alone, and often the sheath has problems that are not visible that can snag and unwind the inner part. Steves46 09-20-2010 @ 10:27 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks Super. I had a feeling that this was the case. Unfortunately, I do not have the original to measure against. I will be keeping my eyes-out for an NOS one. Can I use a Dermal cutting wheel to trim the cable if necessary? 1932BB 09-20-2010 @ 10:38 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 104 Joined: Oct 2009 Try A.C.I. Engineering, 6728 Lovers Lane, Portage, MI. 49002 (269) 327-1991. They make them and have stats for many applications. They made a new one for my 32BB and it was a bolt-up-fit. supereal 09-20-2010 @ 10:53 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I'd order the cable and sheath assembly. C&G has them for under $20. (B-17260-R). The problem with fitting new inner cables is the forming of the squared end, if necessary. Years ago, every garage had a fixture that made the end when it was smacked with a hammer. Now that speedos are all electronic, only the specialists can do it correctly. ford38v8 09-20-2010 @ 10:15 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2739 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve, The squared end of the cable is usually long enough so that a small adjustment will work for you. A dremel should work. I've used a small file on mine. Better just a tad short than binding up. Lube the whole length of the cable as you feed it into the sheath. This is also your best and easiest opportunity to get some great looking stains on your upholstery. Alan 40 Coupe 09-21-2010 @ 6:24 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1650 Joined: Oct 2009 according to the green parts book p-629 the casing is 68" long and the inner shaft 69" but I would not cut the inner shaft to this length without first fitting it. TomO 09-21-2010 @ 8:12 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7244 Joined: Oct 2009 Dennis Carpenter lists the cable and housing in his online catalog for $15. It should be just a little longer than the stock cable and housing, because he claims that it will fit the 39-40 Mercury. You should not have to shorten a cable that came with the housing. I would return the cable and housing that lasted 0 miles to the vendor. You should be able to take any cable and sheath that is within -0 to +2" of the stock measurements and install it with only normal precautions. The extra length can be taken up by storing part of it under the dash and the rest in the length to the transmission. I would lubricate any new cable with a graphite based cable lube and then install it as an assembly. If you are just replacing the inner cable, you will have to shorten it to match up with the housing that you have and crimp a new end at the speedometer end of the cable. Again, I would lubricate it with a graphite based cable lube. Tom supereal 09-21-2010 @ 10:57 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Another tip: Be sure that the sheath is kept away from any part of the exhaust system, a particular concern with dual exhaust. The heat will cook the lube and result in a noisy or broken cable. Steves46 09-23-2010 @ 11:28 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 167 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks to all for the helpful tips. Since I am running dual exhaust, I need to determine a better routing of the cable. Totally agree that the heat will make short work of the cable.

<< previous || next >>

PAGE: 1 2

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1