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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 34 spark Confusion

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Discussion Topic: 34 spark Confusion

34FordFordor

11-02-2025 @ 8:07 AM

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Posts: 1
Joined: Nov 2025

I tinker on my 34 when I have time can’t get it to fire forget it’s there for a little then get back on it. Recently I started at my spark issue again, I have about 3 of the condensers for the dome coil I tired all those and they’re all bad. Everyone knows those are ordered online and a 50/50 shot that they ever work for me. So, and don’t shoot me when I say this, I tired a 6volt coil adapter plate from Third Gen Auto. This worked….for 1 day. It had a good spark, I flooded it gave it time to sit and tried again and nothing! So I tested the coil and condenser, coil was good and I got a brand new condenser from oreilys, and still no spark. So I started looking around and noticed the “power pig tail” was not sitting on the points contact body correctly.(Pic included in video below) Now I’m not exactly sure that it’s an issue or not but It didn’t look right. So I took it off and put the original coil back on and “MacGyver’d” my new condenser using a screw through the contact point on the coil and hooking the condenser lead onto it. Tried for spark with very little hope and surprise to me it worked! (Also included these videos in the video) issue now is that the spark is not consistent. In the video link you’ll see that I don’t have spark I mess with the ignition witch and the spark comes back. I’m sure the first thing will be get a new ignition switch and this is in the work. But other than this any ideas and comments for me? Also I will add that I have the resistor by passed at the moment so I have roughly 6 volts at the coil and when I do have spark the car does not sounds as if it wants to start. Any help is appreciated and sorry again for another post on the same topics!
Thank you all so much. Also posted this on the ford barn.
Here is the video with pictures and videos:

https://youtu.be/4wTCak-Y0f4?si=Tq6BhDGM5cP4OCXi

carcrazy

11-02-2025 @ 4:44 PM

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Posts: 1975
Joined: Oct 2009

You should include the resister under the dashboard when using original type of coils that bolt onto the distributor. The cylindrical, remote mounted coils do not need that resister as they have a built in resister. If you bypass the original resister with an original type of coil, you will burn out the coil within a brief period of time.

The little power pig tail on the bottom of the coil or coil adaptor must make good contact with point cup and the carbon brush must make good contact with the metal conductor ring on the rotor. If you don't have good contact between the carbon brush and the rotor, you can either slightly stretch the spring that pushes the brush out of the coil or obtain a new spring or brush as required.

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