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Posted By Discussion Topic: Electric Fuel Pump     bo8109b 08-11-2010 @ 2:11 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 179 Joined: Nov 2009 Would a electric fuel pump mounted on the firewall ahead of the engine fuel pump work satisfactory? Really don't want to splice it into the fuel line in back near the tank. 37RAGTOPMAN 08-11-2010 @ 5:53 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1942 Joined: Oct 2009 what kind of problems are you having ? maybe we can fix them,without a electric pump. Mounting electric pump on the fire wall is a NO NO,TOO DANGEROUS. What will happen if it ever sprung a leak? rebuild the original and see how well it will work, call the ANTIQUE PART CELLAR in MASS,for a modern material diaphram, works with the modern gas, just my 3cents worth, 37 RAGTOPMAN,an KEEP ON TRUCKIN,,,!!!!!!!!!! BEEN DRVING MY 37 since 1980 and only ever used the original FUEL PUMP, This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 8-11-10 @ 5:56 PM TomO 08-11-2010 @ 6:03 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7244 Joined: Oct 2009 Electric fuel pumps work better when they push the gas, that is why they are mounted near the tank. The old impulse type pump would work on the firewall, but the diaphragm is not alcohol resistant and they are very dangerous with the present fuels. I have not found anyone reproducing the diaphragm with modern materials. Tom 35ford 08-11-2010 @ 6:49 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 63 Joined: Oct 2009 I drove to Oregon from Ma and except for rebuilding my fuel pump in Yellowstone when it failed that is all I had and the HILLS and hot weather did not bother it. I removed the electric that was in my 35 Touring Fordor sedan and ran a new line from the tank to the firewall and so far no problems. Sunday was hot mid to high 80s and ran 60 MPH on the highway with no problems. They used to run as made so why change? jmo bo8109b 08-11-2010 @ 7:56 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 179 Joined: Nov 2009 This '48 runs perfectly after starting. Trouble is it takes many cranks to start it hot or cold. This even happens 5 minutes after it was turned off. New fuel pump and fresh points. Accelerator pump squirts fuel. Am an old guy and when I had one of these flatheads at age 20, bragged how fast these Fords would start over the other cars. What gives? alanwoodieman 08-12-2010 @ 5:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 864 Joined: Oct 2009 lousy gas is what gives, the new fuels have a lower vapor point, at least that is what I was told by a Sh*ll petroleum engineer. Most of the problems occur from too much gas getting into the engine, floods them out, even when cold--I found by just pulling the choke out and pushing the starter button seems to work for me with a cold engine and just hitting the starter button works for a warm engine. I also got others to try this with much sucess, try this it might help 51f1 08-12-2010 @ 6:34 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 573 Joined: Oct 2009 Most starting problems occur because the engine is not in tune and/or some part is worn. Get everything up-to-snuff and you'll have no problem starting. I've always started my engine when cold by just pulling out the choke a bit and pushing the starter button. It starts cold in less than a second. If it's hot, I may depress the accelerator peddle slightly (or I may not). If it hasn't been sitting long, it starts instantly. If it has been sitting a while, it may take a couple of seconds to start. It's all stock except for a fuel filter. Richard This message was edited by 51f1 on 8-12-10 @ 6:41 AM 37RAGTOPMAN 08-12-2010 @ 7:15 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1942 Joined: Oct 2009 On hard starting hot,just hit the starer button.DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS PEDAL.see if this works,for you, When cold I just pull the choke and hit the button it should start instantly.push choke back in maybe half way for a few minutes.and see what happens, also check you gas cap and make sure it is vented,I use locking one they make with FORD on them and had no problems in 30 years, The REBUILD KITS FROM ANTIQUE PARTS CELLAR are Meant for the Modern Gas, Fuels. I have Used One for Many Years with NO PROBLEMS, Their phone number is 781-335-8860 MASS. if you want they will rebuild the pump for you, if you think it would be a problem for you to do so, but are pretty easy to do,but they clean them up, and problably will look like new, ask them questions,ALSO BUY their firewall flex fuel line,and the copper washers, for sealing the fuel line for no air leaking in the system,this will help in starting the car after sitting for weeks,,months,and this way you will not have to install a electric pump with extra wiring, switches, maybe some brackets, if you think you need a electric pump, there is something else wrong with the system,and you are JUST masking the problem, also electric pumps should have a accident relay, so it shuts off,GOD FORBID you have a accident,modern car do have these, AND IF you forget to switch the pump off, or the needle and seat sticks or you have another carb problem it might flood the engine and drain gas into the crankcase. this could be dangerous,, and will harm your you engine for sure. ALSO I have heard if you have what they call vapor lock, add I gallon of diesel fuel to a tank of gas, hope this helps. this is just my 3 cents worth,and experience of driving owning a V8 FORD for many years, 37 RAGTOPMAN an KEEP ON TRUCKIN,,,,!!!!!!!!!!! MAINE TomO 08-12-2010 @ 7:57 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7244 Joined: Oct 2009 bo8109b, you said that you see fuel squirting when you press the accelerator. This means that you have gas in the carburetor bowl and an electric fuel pump will not help you. You may have a flooded condition, check all of the plugs for signs of gas after the engine has been stopped for 5 minutes. If they are wet from gas, your power valve gasket is likely leaking. Your spark could also be weak. Check it at idle by holding a plug wire near a head stud. You should have a blue spark at least 1/4 inch long. If you have a good spark at idle, your problem may be too much current draw when trying to start. Check the voltage across the battery when cranking the engine with the ignition off. You should see at least 5 volts. Readings less than 4.5 volts indicate the battery is defective. Tom supereal 08-12-2010 @ 8:44 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Every old Ford I've owned had its own starting routine. My current car, a '47, requires several pumps of the gas pedal before hitting the starter button and, usually, several more as it begins to run. Others have required the choke and avoidance of the gas pedal. Until you determine what is best for your car, starting will often be a challenge. I use an electric pump only to minimize cranking. Today's gas, particularly that with alcohol, has a low "vapor pressure" rating, which is a problem in hot weather in carbureated cars. It evaporates quickly when heated, and will form bubbles in any part of the system exposed to heat. Hot starting will be aided with a bypass switch for the ignition resistor, or a diode circuit, to increase voltage to the coil. This was builtin on cars of pre-injection years, particularly the six volt variety.

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