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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / All 35mph

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Posted By Discussion Topic: All 35mph

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Labrauer
03-29-2023 @ 8:38 PM
Member
Posts: 1
Joined: Mar 2023
          
Recently purchased a 1936 four door sedan that I have some problems with and need some advice on. Finally got the brake lights to work so I took her for a drive and all I could get with the gas peddle to the floor was 35mph. Checked the brakes and all was well so there is no drag there, put new plugs in and set the carburetor. The car has been switched from 6 volt to 12 volt by the owner of the car before me. The engine is the 221 flathead V8.
Anybody got any suggestions on what might be wrong or have anyone had this happen to them.

Thanks in advance,
Sincerely,
Larry Brauer

carcrazy
03-29-2023 @ 11:59 PM
Senior
Posts: 1567
Joined: Oct 2009
          
There are several things that may be reducing the performance of your engine. Your muffler may be plugged up restricting the flow of exhaust gasses. Your fuel line may have a leak between the tank and the fuel pump causing a loss of the vacuum in the line required to provide enough fuel at higher speeds. There may be dirt in the fuel system somewhere restricting the flow of fuel. Your fuel pump may not be delivering enough fuel for the engine to provide sufficient power to drive the car over 35 MPH.

37RAGTOPMAN
03-30-2023 @ 10:18 AM
Senior
Posts: 1939
Joined: Oct 2009
          

I would check that the carburetor linkage is working,
have some one push the gas pedal all the way down and hold it [ ENGINE OFF
now look under the hood
and see if the throttle linkage is all the way on the carb, depreessed
maybe it is not adjusted correctly, or a rug or something block it,
also check the fuel filter, for blockage,
my 2 cents , hope this helps, 37Ragtopman

51woodie
03-31-2023 @ 10:57 AM
Senior
Posts: 505
Joined: Jan 2017
          
I have found the best tool for troubleshooting a poorly performing engine is a vacuum gauge. (Available at most auto parts store.). Connect an appropriate size and length of hose to a port on the intake manifold (wiper vacuum connection) so you can read the gauge from inside car. Start the engine, and while it is warming up, compare the gauge reading the the attached chart. If all looks normal, go for a short drive to see what readings you get. These tests will save a lot of guess work, and frustration. The gauge panel pics are from my stock (except for gauges) '46 Super Deluxe Coupe.

This message was edited by 51woodie on 3-31-23 @ 11:00 AM

hupdoc
06-01-2023 @ 3:50 PM
Member
Posts: 11
Joined: May 2015
          
I agree The vacuum gauge is without doubt the most useful trouble shooting and tuning tool there is -Karl

MG
06-01-2023 @ 5:36 PM
Senior
Posts: 1244
Joined: Nov 2009
          
I had the same problem with my '37. Found that It was running on just 4 cylinders due to a clogged carburetor - it was running on just one barrel of the Stromberg 97 carburetor. Rebuilt the carb to resolve the problem...

This message was edited by MG on 6-1-23 @ 5:38 PM

carcrazy
06-01-2023 @ 8:27 PM
Senior
Posts: 1567
Joined: Oct 2009
          
When the car was converted from 6V to 12V was the polarity changed from positive to negative ground? If so, the polarity of the coil has to be wired so that the + terminal is connected to the ignition switch without an external resistor and the - terminal is connected to the distributor.

Drbrown
06-15-2023 @ 9:06 AM
Senior
Posts: 559
Joined: Nov 2013
          
Agreed ! Per the "Ignitor" manufacturer, that applies to electronic distributor installations as well.

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