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Discussion Topic:
Plug wire schematic
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Joes35 |
07-05-2022 @ 8:58 AM
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Member
Posts: 7
Joined: May 2022
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Ok I will check into those thanks! They have been hard to match up for sure!
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trjford8 |
07-05-2022 @ 6:56 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4202
Joined: Oct 2009
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Those screws are very short on the the radiator/hood emblem. It's been a long time , but I think they are 10-24 or 12-24 oval head.
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Joes35 |
07-04-2022 @ 7:52 PM
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Member
Posts: 7
Joined: May 2022
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Update, got er running! So these old girls apparently like lots of fuel and a pull start! Running pretty good for sitting since 1953! Thanks for all the tips! I do want to see if anyone knows what size bolts/threads hold down the top of the grill/hood emblem? Cant seem to find a fit?
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Joes35 |
05-30-2022 @ 8:36 AM
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Member
Posts: 7
Joined: May 2022
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Good to know! I will look into that, thank you!
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carcrazy |
05-29-2022 @ 4:16 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1587
Joined: Oct 2009
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Check to see if your distributor rotor rotates when you crank the engine. Judging by the markings on your cylinder head, you have a 1946 to 1948 Flathead V-8 engine. You have a 1937 to 1941 distributor on the engine. If this is the case and the parts inside the engine are stock, you will have to use a distributor to camshaft spacer ("cam button spacer") to allow the camshaft to drive the rotor. The required item is available from several sources, two of them are: MAC's Antique Auto Parts under P.N. 11A-6280 and Speedway Motors under P.N. 910-12710. This adapter takes up the space between the front of the camshaft and the rear of the distributor, it is required to mount a 1932-41 distributor on a 1942-48 Flathead V-8.
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carcrazy |
05-29-2022 @ 9:52 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1587
Joined: Oct 2009
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There is a brush mounted in the bottom of the coil that makes contact with the distributor rotor. If this brush is missing, excessively worn or stuck in a retracted position, the ignition circuit will not be complete and there will be no spark. You can verify that this brush is present and making contact by removing one of the distributor cap assemblies (inner and outer caps) from the side of the distributor and looking inside with the aid of a light and a mirror. If your brush or spring is damaged or missing, you can purchase a new Ignition Coil Contact Brush (P.N. 68-12010-S for 1936-41 - brush & spring) from Yesteryear Ford Parts.
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Joes35 |
05-29-2022 @ 7:32 AM
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Member
Posts: 7
Joined: May 2022
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So yes I have sprayed starting fluid even directly in plug holes just to see if it would pop. The first time it faintly did but nothing since. I have considered something either stuck in the intake or the exhaust I will look into that today. Also the distributor was sent to the "flathead doctor" in Portland and said coil was strong and bolt it on and go. New wires, new plugs gapped at .030 and physical spark at each plug around the compression stroke (thumb over plug hole test). Thanks for the guidance!
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37RAGTOPMAN |
05-29-2022 @ 5:39 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1941
Joined: Oct 2009
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looking at what you are working with, I would make sure the valves are working and not sticking, is there any backfire out the carb or out the exhaust, was the coil rebuilt ? or a used coil, make sure you have a good one, I would also check if mice built a nest in the exhaust system. clogging the exhaust system you might laugh but I see it done, you say you have elect to the coil terminal, and checked the voltage, should be 3-4 volts, you can go directly from the battery to the coil, using 6 volts, but ONLY for a short time, hope this helps, 37Ragtopman,Maine
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40 Coupe |
05-29-2022 @ 4:45 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1647
Joined: Oct 2009
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It is possible the ignition coil or the condenser is bad if there is no spark at the plugs.
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carcrazy |
05-28-2022 @ 10:30 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1587
Joined: Oct 2009
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Spray some starter fluid into the carburetor to see if you can get the engine to try to start. If the engine still does not even try to fire any of the spark plugs, there is no spark. Replace all of the spark plugs with new properly adjusted plugs and the engine should fire right up and run.
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