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Posted By Discussion Topic: Horn wiring #2 -- page: 1 2     Barney 10-19-2021 @ 5:09 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 107 Joined: Nov 2015 Hello again, Sorry to be a pain in the neck - again. Yesterday, I whined about not being able to thread the horn button wiring down the steering tube. Tom O. was so nice to explain the method with which to thread the wire. However, I ran into a bit of an issue today. I could not get the wire but a 1/2" up the hollow steering shaft from the bottom. I removed the steering box lower plate and found what you see in the attached pictures. I see no reason for the visible "crimping" on the brass tube. They appear to be 'factory' as they are quite precise and neatly formed, but there's no way a wire can be fed through the tube. I can even see light through it. Anyone else experience this alleged deformation? Anyone know the real story here? I could drill a hole through the crimping to accommodate a wire, but very reluctant to do that before hopefully receiving advise from the experts out there. Thank you for reading this long explanation. Regards, Barney 37RAGTOPMAN 10-20-2021 @ 6:12 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1941 Joined: Oct 2009 Hi Barney I never saw a tube like you have, it looks like it was damaged, but how ? I would get another one, with no crimps. my 2 cents 37Ragtopman kubes40 10-20-2021 @ 6:31 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3370 Joined: Oct 2009 Barney, That's not a factory crimp... You can replace that tube easy enough if you can silver solder. Mike "Kube" Kubarth Barney 10-20-2021 @ 8:20 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 107 Joined: Nov 2015 Thank you Ragtopman and Kube for your input. I doubt I should simply shorten the tube by cutting out the crimped portion and reattaching the tube. The total tube length is 6 3/8". If I removed the crimped portion and installed the remaining portion, the length would be 4". I'm guessing this would cause something to not be supported, or allow oil where it should not be. Finding a replacement brass tube would probably be a challenge as it's diameter is .419", or about 27/64". I don't know if the material is important or if the diameter is critical. If I weren't so lazy, I would remove the whole gearbox, disassemble it, and scrutinize it's guts. I had it apart about four years ago, but can't remember diddly about it. I have two manuals, but they don't have a schematic of the guts. Any advise would be very much welcomed. Thank you. Barney 37RAGTOPMAN 10-20-2021 @ 10:57 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1941 Joined: Oct 2009 hi BARNEY you should keep the same length., this is what keeps the box from leaking,!!! either solder a new tube in place or replace it, how does the steering work , ? My 2 cents 37Ragtopman Barney 10-21-2021 @ 11:24 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 107 Joined: Nov 2015 Thank you again for your advise, Ragtopman, I understand the length of the tube is so that the end is higher than the oil level in the box. Since finding a replacement would probably be monumental. I doubt anyone will be willing to cannibalize a gearbox for this reason; can't blame 'em. I think I may attempt the following: Drill a hole through the 'crimping' to allow a wire to pass through. Then form a piece of brass or copper to cover the damaged area without exceeding the current diameter of the tube. Solder the piece of brass or copper in place. Test for leaks. Barney 37RAGTOPMAN 10-21-2021 @ 12:46 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1941 Joined: Oct 2009 hi Barney I would give Fred Willner at SOUTHSIDE OBSOLETE A call, 1 507 332 6789 he has a very large FORD COLLECTION of GENUINE FORD PARTS, he most likely has what you need, its worth a shot hope this helps 37 Ragtopman his web site fred@southsideobsolete.com Barney 10-23-2021 @ 5:19 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 107 Joined: Nov 2015 Mornin' Ragtopman, Thanks for the contact info. I will plan to give him a buzz - thanks so much. Barney TomO 10-23-2021 @ 7:55 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 You might want to try opening up the crimp by inserting a rod in the tube and tapping on it until it comes out the bottom. Tom Barney 10-25-2021 @ 5:19 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 107 Joined: Nov 2015 Hi Tom O. Thank you. I thought of using a tapered punch as you recommended, but I think the crimp radii are too small (too strong). But what do I have to loose? The opening doesn't need to be any larger than a 12 gauge wire. I'm thinking maybe drilling it out, then soldering a piece of brass or copper to seal the probable leak. Enjoy the week. Barney

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