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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Pops out of 2 nd

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Pops out of 2 nd -- page: 1 2     bradshari@aol.com 09-24-2021 @ 9:57 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 20 Joined: Sep 2021 It is me again,Brad. In upstate NY. My 1937 Tudor Model 78 that I just got 1 month ago pops out of 2 nd gear when it is in 2 nd gear going down a hill without me pushing on the gas pedal. It is when I am using it to slow the car with no gas pedal applied instead of using the brakes or at least not using the brakes as much. If I hold the shifter up in 2 nd it doesn’t pop out. When I am in 2 nd and have the gas pedal maintaining my speed or accelerating it doesn’t pop out. I drained the gear case and refilled it. I checked the old gear oil with a magnet and did not find any metal filings/pieces. Any thoughts? Thank you. alanwoodieman 09-25-2021 @ 4:52 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 864 Joined: Oct 2009 synchronizer is getting worn, cluster gear has too much clearance for/aft, second hear has too much clearance all of the above plus second/third worn on end of shifter. pull trans and rebuild or you could just use the brakes as they were intended. from my experience it is easier to reline brakes that it is to remove/rebuild trans 40 Coupe 09-25-2021 @ 5:54 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1648 Joined: Oct 2009 Another problem area could be the shift top. The top shift mechanism has rods with detents. There is a spring that assist in snaping the shifter into any gear and somewhat holds it in place when in gear. If the spring or the two end caps for the spring are worn or broken it makes it easy for the shift lever to move. Before removing transmission rebuild the top shift mech and try. therunwaybehind 09-25-2021 @ 7:21 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 180 Joined: May 2019 My experience with a similar top shift transmission with straight cut reduction gears also produced jumping out of second. I broke that transmission so I have no exact fix documentable. Later with a Datsun pickup that the owner had scrambled the linkage on I unscrambled it but he had to replace the shifter forks to get success with staying in gear. 37RAGTOPMAN 09-25-2021 @ 7:55 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1941 Joined: Oct 2009 I think you could try looking at the detent spring, and ball bearing and see if it is weak this a long shot, it is in the shifter tower, or could be a worn shifter fork, ? you can remove the shifter tower and look in the transmission for worn part's hope this helps 37Ragtopman nelsb01 09-25-2021 @ 8:58 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 975 Joined: Oct 2009 Back in the day when I owned a 'thifty sixty' 1937, I had the same problem. Removing the transmission and opening it up showed that one of the thrust washers had broken. Took the transmission apart (really a simple task) and replaced the thrust washer (you probably should replace both of them) and reassembled it, problem never came back. bradshari@aol.com 09-26-2021 @ 4:43 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 20 Joined: Sep 2021 Thank you for the advice. I will start with the upper detent spring idea. I read that removing the transmission in this car with the enclosed drive shaft is difficult. Do you have to really remove the back axle or the engine? 40 Coupe 09-26-2021 @ 5:13 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1648 Joined: Oct 2009 To remove the transmission you do have to remove either the engine or the rear axle and torque tube. nelsb01 09-26-2021 @ 5:32 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 975 Joined: Oct 2009 Removing the rear axle and enclosed torque tube is easier than removing the engine. Jack the car up and put jack stands under the frame a head of the rear axle. Use a floor jack under the rear end. You will have to disconnect the brake cables. Remove the cotter pins from the spring U bolts and then the nuts. Remove the floor pan and then remove the U joint cover. When all is disconnected, lower the floor jack so that the spring drops down out of the rear cross member. Slide the jack and rear end to the rear of the vehicle, just enough to get the U joint out of the way. Now with another jack, I use a bottle jack and 2by4, place it under the rear of the oil pan on the engine. This will support the engine and allow you to remove the transmission. Remove the bolts from the transmission case to the rear of the engine block. Remove the rear transmission mount bolts. The transmission should now be able to be lifted out from the top through the front passenger compartment. These are the basic steps to remove the transmission. Some like to leave the shift lever in place as something to grab and lift with. If and when you remove the shift lever be careful as there is a small pin on the passenger side that holds the lever in place. Once I remove that screw cap I use a small magnet to remove the pin so it doesnt fall into the transmission. Hope this helps some. When I had my 1937 Ford, removing the transmission was the first repair I had to make. And I did it more than once -- not that I did it incorrect, I didnt replace both thrust washers and so I did it twice. Good luck. 51504bat 09-26-2021 @ 8:07 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 233 Joined: Apr 2020 Get this book. Everything you need to know. https://www.vanpeltsalesstore.com/L-1001-The-Ins-and-Outs-of-Early-Ford-Transmissions-Book_p_499.html ______________ No signature

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