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Discussion Topic:
Removal of 1938 Deluxe Radiator
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Dream38v8 |
01-22-2021 @ 3:58 AM
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New Member
Posts: 154
Joined: May 2016
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What steps are required to remove the radiator? I can not find any information in the 1938 - 1939 Ford book. The radiator sprung a small leak after I started running with a pressurized system. This need to get fixed before the touring season starts. I'm now driving the car with the radiator cap loose. Thank you. Stay safe!
Ray
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trjford8 |
01-22-2021 @ 6:14 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4202
Joined: Oct 2009
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I would recommend that you pull the grille/hood sides.
This message was edited by trjford8 on 1-22-21 @ 6:14 AM
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37RAGTOPMAN |
01-22-2021 @ 8:35 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1941
Joined: Oct 2009
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HI 38 radiator I remove the top hoses, the radiator support rods, prop up the hood with a broom handle or similar remove the generator ,and fan as a unit, loosen bottom hoses and the radiator mounting bolts, and use card board panel leaning up against the water pumps, so they do not harm the radiator more, you might have to remove the wiring harness cross taps so you do not pull the wires loose, tilt the radiator rearward and remove, have someone help you, to lift it out, hope this helps 1937 Ragtopman
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ford38v8 |
01-22-2021 @ 9:31 AM
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Senior
Posts: 2735
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Ray, Drain the radiator disconnect the original hood prop Prop hood up high with a long pole remove hood sides remove radiator support rods remove generator with fan remove top radiator hoses install corrugated cardboard onto interior side of radiator remove radiator mounting bolts remove lower radiator hoses with a friend, lift radiator up and out radiator should be flow tested, boiled out, rodded out if needed, pressure tested, and a very light coat of radiator paint applied. no more than 4 lb Pressure cap or the radiator will spring another leak
Alan
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Mr Rogers |
01-22-2021 @ 10:16 AM
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New Member
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If $$$$ are of no object you might consider a larger more volume core replacement. It'll run cooler.
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Dream38v8 |
01-22-2021 @ 2:03 PM
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New Member
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This is a group thank you to triford8, 37RAGTOPMAN and ford38v8. Your directions are straightforward and easy to follow. Mr Rodgers, to the best of my knowledge my '38 is close to original. The only aftermarket parts are the electric fuel pump (which I haven't used in 2 years) and Fender header which I love. Hence I want to keep the car as close to original as possible. If the radiator can not be fixed I will have the original recored (if possible) or purchased a new modern radiator. Thanks and stay safe.
Ray
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Dream38v8 |
01-28-2021 @ 7:21 AM
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New Member
Posts: 154
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Another related question to removing the radiator. I understand the water pumps fasten into the front motor mounts. Do I need to prop up the motor when removing the water pumps? No water pump issues, but since the radiator is out I was considering replacing the water pumps. Recommendations on where to purchase please. Thanks,
Ray
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carcrazy |
01-28-2021 @ 8:01 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1587
Joined: Oct 2009
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I purchased a new set of water pumps for a '53 from Dennis Carpenter several years ago that have given no trouble in over 4 years and 10K+ miles.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
01-28-2021 @ 8:21 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1941
Joined: Oct 2009
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38 RADIATOR if you change the water pumps, you will have to raise the engine with a jack and use a piece of wood on the oil pan ALSO REAL IMPORTANT. in the water pumps, there is a bolt inside the pump, water outlet be sure to use a 6 POINT SOCKET, and do NOT BREAK off the bolt, I think it is 9/16 make sure you clean all surfaces , you could replace the bolt with a stainless steel bolt, hope this helps, 1937Ragtopman
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ford38v8 |
01-28-2021 @ 12:20 PM
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Posts: 2735
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ray, Water pumps can last for many years, or go out suddenly without warning. If I were you, I'd not change them, but rather, keep them on hand for when you do need them. With the radiator out however, is a good convenient time to replace the front motor mounts, as they get loose and mushy often, setting up other problems for you.
Alan
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