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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1936 idles great, misfires at load

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Discussion Topic: 1936 idles great, misfires at load -- page: 1 2

Mr Rogers

07-30-2019 @ 8:21 PM

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My vote is not a gas supply problem. I had a 71 Corvette (don't throw rocks ... I know it's a Chevrolet) and it would back fire & pop. Changed the coil & condenser. Problem went away. Don't know which one was the fix.

maruapo

07-22-2019 @ 10:35 AM

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UPDATE

I had the ignition coil rebuilt by Skip Haney in Puerto Gordo FL (look for his ad in EFV8 Times) and voila problem solved! It no longer misses at load, i.e. driving down road at speed. It used to miss wildly with even the slightest acceleration, but now no issue at all.

So the learning here is if the spark plugs and wires are good, the points ok, and the distributor ok, then it's the coil. Well, there's nothing left but the coil, so sorta obvious at that point. Since the coil was last touched in 1936 when it was installed in Detroit, it makes sense that by 2019 that it would need rebuilding.

Thanks all for your advice.

ken ct.

05-18-2019 @ 12:41 PM

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That cond. mounts on the left coil screw,driverd side. The wire is attached to a 10X32 machine screw from the inside of the old original location.With a nut on the outside of the cond hole you can attach the cond wire with another nut and your good to go. Clear as I can make it. ken ct. 1-203-260-9780 if you don't understand ?? ken ct

lkelton4

05-18-2019 @ 9:16 AM

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I read somewhere that you have to modify the bracket. Do you have to modify the bracket on the Napa IH-200 to make it fit? If so, any pictures?

lkelton4
‘36 Deluxe Coupe

alanwoodieman

05-06-2019 @ 2:44 PM

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take the distributor off and remove the rotor button and look thru it to see if you can see an "electrical" trail of carbon . insulate the shaft which goes thru the rotor button with shrink wrap/electrical tape and try it again.

supereal

05-06-2019 @ 2:36 PM

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I Agree that a weak condenser is a suspect. I keep a condenser with clip leads in my road kit as a precaution. Another place to suspect is the metal conduits between the distributor and the plugs. If your plug wires are original, or very old, it is likely they are cracked where you can't see them inside the conduits, causing shorts. A good grade of metal core plug wires is a desirable investment, in any case. Same is true with old distributor caps. Any cracks will result in carbon paths that produce misfiring.

37RAGTOPMAN

05-06-2019 @ 11:56 AM

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hi
1936
it sounds to me like it is a IGNITION PROBLEM, loose connection, bad ignition resister, check it for getting real hot,
try a jumper lead across the 2 terminals on resister, if it runs better , it is most likely a weak coil,and resister,
also, you can try applying a ICE BAD, on the coil, yes a ICE BAG, I know it sounds stupid, but it does work,by cooling the coil

HOW DOES IT START HOT ? ???

try changing the CONDENSER first,
when it starts dying out, did you try pulling the choke out 1/2 way,? If it make a difference it might be fuel but I doubt it
also just try pulling a few plugs out and see if they are sooty ,
how old is the ignition wires, at night see if you see any cross firing on the metal conduit
Or spray water on the wires, and see if they arc,
my 2 cents 37 RAGTOPMAN

sarahcecelia

05-06-2019 @ 7:58 AM

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I HAVE THAT CAM IN ONE OF MY '50'S, AND 390 HOLLEY 4BBL; AND IT DEMANDS AN ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP TO DELIVER ENOUGH FUEL!! THE STOCK PUMP WON'T PUMP ENOUGH TO FEED IT. I BLOCKED THE PLACE WHERE THE STOCK PUMP GOES, WITH A POLISHED PLATE I MADE.

Regards, Steve Lee

TomO

05-06-2019 @ 6:51 AM

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Based on your post that you had a nice blue spark at all plugs, I feel 99% confident that it is not the coil or condenser causing your problem.

Tom

carcrazy

05-05-2019 @ 7:56 PM

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Suspect inadequate fuel delivery. The fuel pump is not providing the fuel required to run the engine when it is under load.

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