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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1937 horn relay

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1937 horn relay

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Newms
05-02-2019 @ 5:32 PM
Member
Posts: 8
Joined: Sep 2010
          
Does anyone have any experience adding a relay to the horn(s) on a 37?
If so, good add or not worth?
Thanks

MG
05-02-2019 @ 8:12 PM
Senior
Posts: 1302
Joined: Nov 2009
          

'37's are notorious for horn problems. A horn relay might resolve some of the horn problems you have in your '37 but might it not be necessary if you do as I did below.

I once considered wiring in a horn relay to resolve the chronic problems I had with the horns not sounding or barely sounding in my '37. Before doing so, I decided to dedicate an entire day in trouble shooting the factory horn circuit as I wasn't too keen on drilling holes in the firewall to mount a relay. After all, the car came from the factory with no horn relay and the horns must have worked fine back then. Long story short, I got out my multimeter and found that there were very high resistance connections at the bullet connectors to the female connectors in the horn circuit. I was able to resolve the problem by soldering the all the bullet connectors to the wiring - I ended up doing this to all the bullet connectors in all the various circuits in the car. While I was at it, I decided to solder the wire connections inside the light switch housing as well as my lights were dim. The horns never sounded better when I was finished and my lights were brighter too. Again, finding the problem saved me from drilling holes in the firewall to mount a relay....

1937sedandelivery
05-02-2019 @ 9:33 PM
Senior
Posts: 501
Joined: Jul 2014
          
Thanks MG.
Good to know and very helpful. My horns seem like they struggle to make a "honk", kinda muffled. I will get out my soldering iron...
gregg

TomO
05-03-2019 @ 7:26 AM
Senior
Posts: 7386
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I use a product that Eastwood used to sell called Copper Shield. They do not list it on their website any more, but Lowe's has a similar product.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/gardner-bender-1-oz-ox-gard-anti-oxidant-compound/4514334?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-rpe-_-google-_-lia-_-106-_-electricalaccessories-_-4514334-_-0&kpid&store_code=2529&k_clickID=go_625853472_34614745150_111134523790_pla-74096940012_c_1016751&gclid=CjwKCAjwza_mBRBTEiwASDWVvoDdsLWvQIuk8eOoSl6hUKVsAnhfbXsOAMqKnYOlQVTLS0LYzftq2RoCm9YQAvD_BwE

This grease prevents corrosion in the connections and reduces resistance. When I first used the Copper Shield the voltage drop from my battery to the right head light was 0.8 volts, using the grease on all of the bullet connectors reduced the drop to 0.5 Volts, cleaning the dimmer switch brought the drop to 0.3 Volts.

Soldering all of the connections can be a problem when you are trouble shooting a short.

I do check that all of the bullet connectors are soldered rather than just crimped. Crimped connectors can corrode between the wire and the connector.

Tom

Newms
05-03-2019 @ 7:37 AM
Member
Posts: 8
Joined: Sep 2010
          
Everything you both have said makes sense to me. I will try these first.
Thanks MG an TomO.
Gotta love the '37
Bob

37RAGTOPMAN
05-03-2019 @ 11:22 AM
Senior
Posts: 1992
Joined: Oct 2009
          
hi
how old is the wiring ? try cleaning all connection,
disconnect the light switch bulb from under the car, and see if the light switch is dirty,greasy
check the horn connections,
ON BOTTOM OF THE LIGHT SWITCH ROD, if so clean
did you try using jumper leads to activate the 2 HORNS, ? to see if the horns are at fault ?
this helps locating the problem, by eliminating the car wiring, go direct
maybe they need cleaning ? contacts clean ?
it also may be the light switch rod wire running down the inside of the rod, check for continuity
get back to us with what you found,

I have a 37 and the horns never failed me, from 1980 ,
but I did replace the wiring, all of it RHODE ISLAND WIRING is what I used, not cheap but I consider them the best,
well worth the money,
my 2 cents 37RAGTOPMAN

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