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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / flathead oil

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Posted By Discussion Topic: flathead oil -- page: 1 2     36cabriolet 01-30-2019 @ 10:50 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 7 Joined: Dec 2018 Hello ! I'm sure this question has been around a time or two but as a new comer to this site can I get some input to what type and weight of oil is best for a fairly fresh (1000miles) Flathead 8ba ? I was told I should run Rotella 15-40 with a zink additive any suggestions thanks 51woodie 01-30-2019 @ 11:32 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 509 Joined: Jan 2017 36cab. I use Rotella T4 15-40 in my '46 Super Deluxe Coupe. I don't add zinc, and have had no issues. Having said that, I do not run the car in cold weather. Here is a link to the Sh*ll info. https://rotella.sh*ll.com/en_us/products/conventional-motor-oil/rotella-triple-protection.html Drbrown 01-30-2019 @ 6:32 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 563 Joined: Nov 2013 OIL: As alluded-to above, selection of an oil viscosity should be based on the engine's operating environment, internal wearing surface clearances, and cleanliness of the oil circulating system. My 59AB engine has 35,000 on its rebuild and has always used a name brand conventional high detergent 10w-30 viscosity oil in it. The engine has no oil filter, the oil is changed every 1,000 miles, the engine does not leak or burn oil and still has excellent oil pressure. The car lives in mountainous upper NY State two hours south of Montreal Canada and is driven during winter when roads are clear and clean. I do add MMO to my gasoline and a 1/2 quart to the engine at changing time in an effort to reduce/prevent sticky valve guides and piston rings. Zinc Additive: There's noticeable debate about using Zinc additive on both Ford forums. I think the general consensus is that it may be desirable in older engines with hydraulic valve lifters but not necessarily in those with solid tappets. If you were using valve springs of higher than stock compression strength it might be desirable. Regardless, I don't think it would hurt to use it if you wish. This message was edited by Drbrown on 1-30-19 @ 6:47 PM alanwoodieman 01-30-2019 @ 6:50 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 864 Joined: Oct 2009 I use Kendall 20w50 GT oil, according to their lubrication engineer this oil has small amounts of zinc in it. I also change oil ever 1000 miles--my 40 wagon has no filter (30,000 miles), my 41 3/4 ton stake bed has a filter (15,000), my 41 1 1/2 ton, (5000 miles) does not and I really cannot see any difference. I buy 10 case lots of this oil and change a lot of oil in other flathead engines belonging to other people. Drbrown 01-31-2019 @ 8:01 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 563 Joined: Nov 2013 The discussion of "filtering" arises ! I've read a lot of back-n-forth about filtering and personally decided that if the stock filter system is a "partial" one, and if I'm changing oil every 1,000 miles, and it looks reasonably clear, then I'll continue without one. I think another factor is that when I run the car, I always plan on driving for at least 45 minutes, which gives the oil a good chance to heat-up in the cold temp's, and hopefully minimize gunk formation. TomO 01-31-2019 @ 8:07 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 I use 10w-30 oil in both my 1940 Mercury and my 1953 Lincoln. I change oil in both of them every 1,000 miles or sooner if I do not drive 1,000 miles in the summer. I change the filter in the Lincoln at every oil change. After doing some more research, I am going to try Mobile 1 in my cars this year. They have made some significant improvements in the synthetic oils in the past couple of years, so it is time for me to give them a try. Using a quality oil with ZDDP will not hurt your engine, but adding ZDDP can lead to a situation wher the concentration of the chemicals is too strong and that can damage the engine. The amount of anti-wear chemicals in the modern oils is enough protection for our engines. A little Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel tank can help prevent sticky valves in the flathead engines with solid valve guides. Tom 36cabriolet 01-31-2019 @ 8:14 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 7 Joined: Dec 2018 Thanks for the input guys its appreciated !! MG 01-31-2019 @ 12:46 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1248 Joined: Nov 2009 "Using a quality oil with ZDDP will not hurt your engine, but adding ZDDP can lead to a situation wher the concentration of the chemicals is too strong and that can damage the engine." Tom - Can you point to the article where the above info can be read?.... TomO 01-31-2019 @ 5:30 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7243 Joined: Oct 2009 MG, there are too many to provide a link to just one. Google ZDDP and you will find many opinion articles on the subject as well as some articles written by oil companies. Today's oils are a complex mixture of chemicals and adding your own chemical can upset the balance created by the oil company. As an example, in the 1950's we used to add MMO to the oil and drive the car for 1,000 miles to free up stuck lifters and valves. I would reduce the driving time today to 100 miles or less with the MMO mixture in the oil and if that did not solve the problem, tear down the engine and repair it. Tom Drbrown 01-31-2019 @ 9:20 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 563 Joined: Nov 2013 Totally agree re MMO. MMO has been around since the 1950's (or more) and I always thought it was just another additive. When I bought my '47 it had been sitting for a long time and had what I thought sounded like a worn piston pin or bad pump rod. A vacuum gauge suggested it was more likely a sticking valve. Adding the MMO to the gas quickly stopped the sound and all good since. Very happy I wasn't facing an engine tear-down. The car still sometimes sits for some extended times so I continue to use the MMO.

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