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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 39 front tube conversion rehash

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Discussion Topic: 39 front tube conversion rehash -- page: 1 2

trjford8

05-31-2010 @ 7:24 AM

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Grade 5 is fine.

parrish

05-26-2010 @ 8:45 PM

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thanks, trjford8! any particular grade or is grade 5 good enough?

trjford8

05-26-2010 @ 7:27 AM

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You shouldn't need a bushing. Just run the bare bolt through it.

parrish

05-25-2010 @ 7:56 PM

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Sounds like a good approach. By the way, if I go conservative and drill out the eyelet as little as possible...say to 1/2 inch (which seems to be the common shock bushing size), can I run a bare mounting bolt through the eyelet? Or will the eyelet require a bushing? Thanks for the help!

supereal

05-24-2010 @ 10:20 AM

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Don't sweat it. Those perch bolts are very tough, and we have seem where the eyes were badly worn, but never broken. I'd go ahead and drill them for the studs. The worst thing that could happen is to have one eventually break, but that isn't fatal, and waiting beats trying to get the perch bolts out any day.

parrish

05-24-2010 @ 9:04 AM

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I looked at kits with a different perch bolt as a possible replacement and thought it looked like a nasty job. So then I then looked at kits with a spring shackle replacement approach and assumed I'd need a spring spreader to do the job, so that went on the back burner too. I think I will drill out the original eyelet as little as possible to accomodate a bushing and shock mounting bolt and see how it goes. I guess I could get buy 39 front Houdailles and remove the old conversion upper bracket (I have some levers that are the '42 or so, but with the 4 1/2 bolt pattern), but holy cow, what a pain!

supereal

05-23-2010 @ 10:25 AM

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If the hole is tapered (likely), the straight stud will eventually work loose. I haven't seen any tapered bushings for that purpose. If you drill out the perch eye. a straight bushing will be required. Replacing the perch bolt opens a whole new set of problems, as most are extremely difficult to remove from the axle.

parrish

05-23-2010 @ 9:44 AM

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thanks trjford8. I found a short 1/2 threaded bolt and I placed in on both sides of the eyelet that doesn't have the bushing (driver). It inserted from the engine side a little easier than the wheel side. This surprised me as I figured the eyelet would be a constant diameter and only the bushing would be tapered? Maybe the eyelet diameter difference (it was very slight...maybe 1/32) was a simple wear result? Anyway, the bolt seemed snug enough once I wiggled it in from the engine side. So if the C&G mounting studs are the same 1/2 inch diameter, is there any reason I would need a bushing? Thanks for your help!

trjford8

05-20-2010 @ 6:46 PM

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I would check with Drake to see if the lower mounting stud is tapered or straight(hopefully you will get someone who can give you an answer).Drilling the pin to 1/2' may weaken the mounting hole.You might call C and G Parts (1-760-740-2400). They sell a tube shock kit for your car and the people who work there can give you a straight answer.

parrish

05-20-2010 @ 1:07 PM

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Thanks guys...if I use the Drake mounting stud, can I simply drill out the original axle/wishbone eyelet to 1/2 inch or would a bushing be required as well?

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