LOGIN
  • Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!



(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?
REGISTER NOW!

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

    http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Charging on 1942 ford 6 volt

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: Charging on 1942 ford 6 volt -- page: 1 2

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts first

Parkopup1218
02-16-2019 @ 5:21 PM
Member
Posts: 20
Joined: Dec 2018
          
Hi Tom

You what it was? It ended up the starter(positive ground)was not grounded correct. The ground went to the firewall and had a smaller batt cable that ended up having some rust under the paint. I replaced the batt cable with a 1 guage size cable that is red sheathed and attached it to the block. I also had the starter out and had it bench tested just to make certain and it is aok. The battery is new. After everything was put back together, I put the key in her and she started right up. This was yesterday.

Today I went out and pressed the started button like 1/2 time and she fired right up.

Thanks for your help and now on to other things.

TomO
01-29-2019 @ 8:25 AM
Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I would not mess with the connections until you have done the tests that I described. You may introduce new problems to the electrical system. The tests that I gave you should help to isolate the problem and lead to a quality fix.

Tom

Parkopup1218
01-28-2019 @ 1:25 PM
Member
Posts: 20
Joined: Dec 2018
          
Hi Tom

I have not been able to get back to the car until now due to some illness.

The car has been on the battery tender since Sept.

Since it had not been started, and thinking that maybe the ground from the battery to the firewall was not good, I ran a batt cable to one of the studs on the motor thinking this might help isolate the ground. Although it seemed to crank over a little more, it did not start and the battery has signs it is dead. It is brand new in July. I am going to take it back where I got it to have them put it on the bench to see if that is an issue.

I am going to roll my sleeves up and check all the connections. The solenoid or gen might be issue? I will jump start this to get it going and check some diagnostics.

Stay tuned.

37RAGTOPMAN
01-10-2019 @ 8:57 AM
Senior
Posts: 1941
Joined: Oct 2009
          
the battery should be a positive ground, I am sure it is, but just wanted to be sure,
on your headlights, use a test lead and run a ground wire to a good connection,from the bulb and to ground, and if the lights get brighter, you have bad grounds,
on charging.,
Test 1 if you take off the belts off the generator, take a 10 gauge test jumper wire and make contact on the ARM connection for a second or 2,
the generator should turn quite rapidly ,it is a electric motor,
if it runs your generator should be working,
the reg should have been polarized by just touching the field connection on the reg, for a split second,with a hot lead from the battery,
I would run a ground wire from the generator to battery and see if it charges then, it might not getting a connection from the engine to the frame,
also disconnect battery, disconnect the arm wire on the battery,
charge the battery, wait over night see if it is still charge, there might be a drain in the generator,
I am sure there will be more input on this problem.

hope this helps,
1937 RAGTOPMAN

42oink
01-07-2019 @ 10:59 AM
New Member
Posts: 119
Joined: Nov 2010
          
Here's a thought. Polaraizing is a good idea to try. I used to do that many moons ago with old cars. Chilton tells you which post to ground for a second. With the engine running, disconnect the battery. Does it run? That will eliminate one possibility. Ain't old cars fun? 42oink

supereal
01-01-2019 @ 1:58 PM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I'd suspect a battery drain caused by an electricly wound clock, or a switch, such as for a tail or stop light that isn't completely shutting off. Put a voltmeter between the battery cable and the battery post. Any meter reading indicates a drain. Recently we had an almost new Cadillac in our shop that had been to two dealers because the battery would go down. It turned out to be a dome light door switch that opened enough to shut off the lamp, but still drew a small current. One dealer installed a new battery, another an alternator. For all old vehicles we recommend installing a master battery cutoff switch. It will prevent these problems and protect your vehicle and garage from fire caused by old wire insulation.

TomO
12-18-2018 @ 7:23 AM
Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Here is a short list to get you started on determining what the problem is;

Disconnect the grounding cable from the battery and let the battery charge on the trickle charger for a few days.
Then :
Disconnect the charger,
Connect the ground cable,
Turn on the headlights for about 30 seconds,
Then check the voltage across the battery. The voltmeter should read about 6.5 volts if the battery is fully charged. If it is not fully charged, disconnect the ground cable and connect the charger for at least another 24 hours and repeat the test. If you cannot get the 6.5 volts, you either need a new battery or charger.

When you get the battery fully charged,
Connect you voltmeter across the battery and have an assistant press the starter button for 15 seconds with the ignition switch OFF, while you read the voltage. The meter should read above 5.5 volts while the engine is cranking and return to at least 6 volts when the engine is not cranking.
If the voltage drops below 5.0 volts when cranking and returns to above 6 volts, you have a problem with the starter drawing excessive current.

If your car passes the above test, leave the battery ground cable connected and the charger disconnected for a day. Then read the battery voltage again with the headlights on and the engine not running. The meter should read 5.8 volts or more. If it does not, you may have a short.

Post the results of the tests and I can give you further checks to make. If you have to wait fo March to make the tests, do a search for your user name and update this post.

Take care of your health and when you are ready, we will be here to help.

Happy holidays to you.


Tom

Parkopup1218
12-17-2018 @ 9:46 AM
Member
Posts: 20
Joined: Dec 2018
          
Thanks Alan and I agree that doing the inspection and repairs myself is the only way to learn. I have picked up an original repair manual for the year of the car to help.


Parkopup1218
12-17-2018 @ 9:40 AM
Member
Posts: 20
Joined: Dec 2018
          
Hi Tom. I do have an ammeter yet have not checked it yet. I have it on a trickle charger now which the takes little time to recharge but once I begin to start, the batt does not last long. It is new and I had it rechecked and the batt they say is good. I am keeping a charge on it as I have just gotten out of surgery and not able to pay attention to it until March or so.

In reading some of the great responses from everyone, I need to check the wiring to make certain all are clean and paint free.

This site is great and I am very appreciative for all the responses and experience.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL!

TomO
12-17-2018 @ 6:54 AM
Senior
Posts: 7243
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Do you have a voltmeter and know how to use it?

Do you have a 6 volt battery charger?

Does the battery go dead when the car is sitting?

You have a generator charging problem and it could be the voltage regulator, generator or wiring. The easiest way to determine what is wrong is to use a voltmeter to check things out.

Pleas answer my questions and I can then give you some suggestions on how to isolate the problem without replacing parts that are in good working order.

Tom

<< previous || next >> 
PAGE: 1 2


NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.


EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1