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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Shifted Axle/Spring

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Shifted Axle/Spring -- page: 1 2     chask 09-24-2018 @ 5:09 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Feb 2017 Thanks guys for all your help. I feel better about trying to take the old spring apart. Now on to the the next problem. When I got the truck home the last spot weld on the crankshaft pulley let loose and the front broke off. Good timing anyway at least it wasn't on the road! Hopefully can find a replacement or get the old one welded. Thanks, Charlie ford38v8 09-22-2018 @ 2:44 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2883 Joined: Oct 2009 Charlie, good to hear you have your NOS spring now! I also think your idea of a chain is workable, and in fact safer than trying to bump-adjust the leaves sideways to accommodate the all thread while only using the C Clamps. Alan woodiewagon46 09-22-2018 @ 12:35 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 723 Joined: Nov 2012 Charlie, at this point, with the spring out of the car, I would see if you can get the nut off the center bolt. Once the nut is off I would loosen the clamps slowly and the spring leaves should separate. I just replaced the center bolt in a Model A. Once the spring is out, as yours is it's an easy job. chask 09-22-2018 @ 11:36 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Feb 2017 Update to this old thread. I was able to get a NOS spring from Mike Dennis and had it replaced this week at the Truck Spring shop. The ride height did not change much, maybe ½” higher with the new spring but now the axle is centered on the frame. The center bolt on the old spring appears to be either bent or broken but the spring leafs stayed together when it was removed. I put some clamps on just in case it is broken. (See attached picture) I would like to take the old spring apart so was thinking of wrapping a chain around the spring with the c-clamps I have on it, knock out the old center bolt, then install threaded rod to slowing take the leafs apart. Does this sound like it would work? Thanks, Charlie chask 04-10-2018 @ 3:39 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Feb 2017 Thanks Tom and Supereal, I did find a local Truck spring shop, with the help of the NJ chapter President, who is willing to remove and install my spring. Since the current spring has lost it's sprung I might as well replace it. I've contacted Mike Dennis (found him in one of Tom O's posts) and he is checking his stock to see if he has one. Other options are Eaton Detroit Spring or Posies so am looking into those. I will also replace all the hardware per Supereal suggestion. I will update how the work goes and post the results in case someone else from the NJ area is looking for a spring guy. Thanks again for all your help, Thanks, Charlie supereal 04-08-2018 @ 2:06 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The only way to know the center bolt is intact is to lower the spring from the cross member. The U-bolts and the spring clips prevent seeing a broken leaf. Use only the correct center bolt. It is B-5345-R at C&G. We also order new u-bolt nuts, 1147, as they don't always come off undamaged. These parts are not expensive, and good to have "just in case". TomO 04-05-2018 @ 7:31 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7385 Joined: Oct 2009 Most places that do spring work on trucks should be able to handle your spring easily. Tom chask 04-04-2018 @ 11:09 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 48 Joined: Feb 2017 Thank you all for your responses and help. I just tried tightening the 4 U-bolt nuts and I went to 70 ft. lbs. on each nut (I think they should be 90 ft. lbs.). They all turned about two revolutions so I would say quite loose. Although I would like to try and remove the spring I don’t have or know anyone with a spring spreader locally and I don’t have those amazing C-Clamps like JM’s. Also, after reading all the posts on how you can kill yourself it might be better to have an expert do the work if I can find one. My concern there is that if they are not familiar with these old Fords they could be hurt too. I also was able to take a picture of the head of the center bolt and it appears to be in the hole in the cross member so it must be broken and not out of the cross member (see attached). Thank you all again for sharing your knowledge. Thanks, Charlie JM 04-03-2018 @ 2:47 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 823 Joined: Oct 2009 Attached is a picture that shows the clamps I use when taking a 35 rear spring apart or putting it back together. In this picture you can see the square head center bolt and nut on the workmate table. I use a length of all thread in the center hole with nuts on top and bottom of spring, so the leaves can be eased apart as the C clanps are untightened. John This message was edited by JM on 4-3-18 @ 2:49 PM JM 04-03-2018 @ 2:17 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 823 Joined: Oct 2009 Tom is on the money with his instructions. A couple of my thoughts on this: It's possible that the center bolt, that holds the spring pack together, may not be broken. Normally, the head on this bolt is square, and that head should fit into a square hole in center of cross member. This fit-up would keep the spring centered in the cross member unless U bolt nuts are loose enough to allow the spring bars/clips to come down so they are not touching the bottom of lower spring leaf. If this happened, it may explain why you spring has shifted off center. Another thing is you need to be very carefull that the spring pack does not suddenly come apart with enough energy to injure you or someone else near by. This is why Tom mentioned putting clamps on both sides of the spring as you remove those U bolt nuts. I usually use two clamps on each side of the spring, attached on opposite sides. John

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