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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / How long to radiator failure?

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Discussion Topic: How long to radiator failure? -- page: 1 2

fordmerc

02-11-2018 @ 2:25 PM

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I have 3500 miles on recored radiator. Always filled with antifreeze. Now car is overheating and l am almost out of solutions. How likely is it that my radiator has failed at this time?

cliftford

02-11-2018 @ 4:24 PM

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Not very likely. There is probably another cause.

carcrazy

02-11-2018 @ 11:44 PM

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Other things that can cause overheating are: low coolant level, loose fan or water pump drive belts, and missing seals or shields that allow the airflow to travel around the radiator rather than through it.

GK1918

02-12-2018 @ 4:52 AM

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My bet like my own problem was dumping stop leak in there for 50ys.
Because I bought a radiator and just about needed a chain fall to get
it out weighed as much as me. Now the truck is burping steaming and
I bet the block is all loaded up. All those yrs my father and myself using
all kinds of stop leak. He bought the truck F6 new in 1950 so go figure,

woodiewagon46

02-12-2018 @ 8:25 AM

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You don't mention how much you drive your car, but if it was ok for 3500 miles, then something had to change. Perhaps the fan belts have stretched and are slipping. Does the car overheat while driving or at a standstill?

trjford8

02-12-2018 @ 10:02 AM

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If your car sits for long periods of time you may be the victim of electrolysis. If you have aluminum heads with the cast iron block and add your copper/brass radiator, you have a recipe for electrolysis. It can easily plug the tubes in the radiator. Look in your radiator and see if you can see the tubes. Blocked tubes are easily spotted. Anti freeze may slow it down, but it does not stop it.

CharlieStephens

02-12-2018 @ 11:09 AM

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How do you know it is overheating? If it is because of the gauge you might check it by putting the sender in boiling water. Any chance the thermostat is sticking?
What are the solutions you tried? It sounds too soon to be having radiator problems.

Charlie Stephens

fordmerc

02-13-2018 @ 8:11 AM

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Thanks for responses. I know it is overheating for three reasons: the gauge hits hot, the car gets vapor lock (I have to sit a while to get it going again) and surface infrared temps are 214-220 on the head at the rear (similar but a tad lower at front). The car is driven in the warm weather only, but by 78 deg ambient temp it will overheat at 25 mph – a little longer to vapor lock at higher speeds. Inspection of the cores looks “like new” . I have checked distributor timing, changed coolant, re-tensioned the belt; water pumps were done by Skip at time of rebuild, there are no thermostats and I believe that all seals and shields are correct. This problem began last year which is relatively suddenly, I spent last summer going through things that might be wrong and I couldn’t drive it last summer for that reason. I hope to resolve the problem so I can get back on the road soon.

cliftford

02-13-2018 @ 9:16 AM

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Remove the cap with the engine running [carefully], look down the filler and see if you can see any sigh of circulation. If not there is a restriction somewhere. May be bad hoses? If you can see coolant moving, check temp on top and bottom tanks, to see if there is a difference.
also is there any chance the air flow through the core is plugged?

woodiewagon46

02-13-2018 @ 12:52 PM

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I did read once about the inner part of a radiator hose collapsing and the outer part remained intact, so you couldn't tell. Follow Cliffs suggestion to check circulation.

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