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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Pulling rear hub

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Pulling rear hub -- page: 1 2 3     40guy 04-13-2010 @ 1:17 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 270 Joined: Oct 2009 I have the type hub puller with 3 legs that uses the lug nuts and studs to secure it. It is old as the hills but works EVERY time. Long ago I had a machine shop put a centering nipple on the end of it. This is very important that the tool be centered. I have never hit the axle nor ever used a K.R. Wilson tool. supereal 04-13-2010 @ 10:48 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Be aware that many of the "knockoffs" now being sold are not hardened, and the interior threads will collapse when they are first struck. This can damage the threaded end of the axle. If you buy one, check it with a file to see if it is, indeed, hardened. TomO 04-11-2010 @ 8:48 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7385 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve, if you use the method of having the car weight on the wheel that you are trying to pull, you will be surprised at how easy the wheel will come off. I carry an axle knocker in my tool kit for emergency use and have removed a wheel using an 16 ounce hammer, by having the weight on the wheel being pulled. Tom Steve S 04-11-2010 @ 12:34 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 54 Joined: Feb 2010 The axle end was not damaged thankfully. I was very careful to protect the threads from damage or mushrooming. If I end up opening the diff then I'll have a look at the gears in there for obvious damage. Hopefully I'll be lucky. I was using one of those knocker tools too, that a neighbor lent me. Just today I think I found a guy locally with a KRW tool that I can borrow, so I'll wait to try again until I get it. I honestly don't think it's rusted, I think maybe I just didn't get enough pulling force on there with the tool I was using. There is fluid coming out of the area around the threads so it should be clean and lubricated in there... I hope! ford38v8 04-10-2010 @ 4:59 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2883 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve, the damage you can do to the axle is the very end itself. I've seen axle ends that have mushroomed from sledge hammers, axles with no threads left from hitting on a castle nut, and even some that have been bent cockeyed. All these make the axle useless for future use, but the internal gears in the banjo can also be damaged by hitting the end of the axle. As everyone has said, the KRW is the best investment in tools you can make. Alan supereal 04-10-2010 @ 12:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 $170 seems like a lot of money, until you price replacement axles. You can reduce the cost by omitting the wooden box, to $155, which includes shipping. I've had mine for a very long time, and paid about $50 for it years ago, as I recall, but it has long since earned that back, and more. There is just no other puller as effective. The phone number for Winfield is (631)928-3316. 37RAGTOPMAN 04-10-2010 @ 10:31 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1992 Joined: Oct 2009 HI Steve S its funny, they sell hub knockers that screw on the axles and you hit them from the end, they still sell them, and they never tell you it can damage the rear, they sold these for 100 years, I think it has to do with how hard you hit them. I would also use heat , seems to work the best and fastest, it depends how many TOOLS you have an how much money you want to spend on them, paying $200.00 for one tool to take something apart maybw one time is good if you have DEEP POCKETS, or do it more often, TRY the HEATING METHOD,AND PB BLASTER RUST BUSTER most likley rusted from the INSIDE, MY3CENTSWORTH 37RAGTOPMAN LET HEAR HOW YOU MADE OUT Steve S 04-10-2010 @ 10:18 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 54 Joined: Feb 2010 I was really wary of hitting the end of the axle, but three different people told me that's how they got theirs off, and that it's a common thing on these Fords. I should have listened to my gut instinct. So now that I'm hit the end of the axle numerous time with a big hammer, what type of damage can I check for inside the axle, once I get it opened up? 37RAGTOPMAN 04-10-2010 @ 10:14 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1992 Joined: Oct 2009 hi STEVE S. wanted clarify a few things, DO not hit the axle from the end, it will do damage the end and is possible to RUIN the axle end,and parts in the rear itself,spider gears and such, SOAK with PB BLASTER,overnight, you can hit from the side on the tapered point of the tapered hub,[ not with a 20 # sledge ] if you have a proffessional air hammer.WOULD BE BETTER, you can also hit from the side, while someone rotates the hub, this usually SHAKES and Breaks them free.were safty glasses.and ear protection, this should not do any damage to the rear, but mark up the hub, I had a 39 MERC with frozen hubs and it took quite a while to get free, and was able to take apart the rear end and check out and put back together, do not hit the brake drum itself. the puller on e-bay, looks light duty to me,and is welded, were should be one piece. IF the puller you used did not move it,.I doubt any puller will work, maybe I am wrong, but removed many brake drums, the way I explained, and HAD NO PROBLEMS I would really like to hear how you removed the brake drums, my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN kubes40 04-10-2010 @ 9:29 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 3575 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve, If I were you I'd step up and buy the KR Wilson puller. A finer puller has not been made. They are reproduced. I recall (perhaps incorrectly) they are about $200. Well worth the investment.

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