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EFV-8 Club Forum / Light Commercial Truck Discussion / water temp senders

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Posted By Discussion Topic: water temp senders

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PeterFord
08-01-2012 @ 7:21 AM
New Member
Posts: 125
Joined: Jan 2011
          
When I bought my 51 ford F1 2 years ago the temp gauge worked, although it was connected to only one sender, the single pole. I decided to connect both of them. When I did, the gauge would not work (needle went all the way to the right). I decided to replace both senders with new ones. No matter how I wire them, the needle still goes immediately to the right and stays there. My Ford was converted to 12 volt before I got it and all the gauges have voltage reducers. I have ordered new voltage reducers to see if I might have a defective one. But I cannot understand why things worked so well before I started monkeying with it. Perhaps it is a faulty gauge, but why was it working perfectly on one sender before I started to replace both senders? If it is the gauge, for some reason, how do you repair them,

supereal
08-01-2012 @ 8:41 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
As you may know, the single terminal sender is the real sensor, the double terminal unit is just a switch that opens when the boiling point is reached. That allows the gauge to go clear to the right (hot side).
Connect the wire to the gauge directly to the single terminal sender. If that solves the problem, the two terminal sender is bad. If it doesn't change the problem, ground the wire to the gauge. If the needle still goes all the way to the right, there is a wiring problem. Finally, if you used Teflon tape, or other sealer on the senders, that will interfere with the necessary ground. Remove the senders, remove the sealer, and clean the threads on both the sender and head as best as you can. The senders use a "pipe thread" which is conical, and needs no sealer if tightened correctly.

Stroker
08-01-2012 @ 10:30 AM
Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
          
We used to "re-set" the two-pole sensors by inverting them in boiling water. Many of
these sensors were filled with a tar-like substance that when melted, allowed the
contacts to move. I've never sawed one apart, so I can't describe the mechanism,
but boiling them with the bulb up, always seemed to allow them to function again.

trjford8
08-01-2012 @ 6:19 PM
Senior
Posts: 4203
Joined: Oct 2009
          
If you have the "Runtz" style resistors on each gauge that could be the problerm. I have never had good luck with them. I always use the resistor that was used on the back of the mid 60's Mustang gauges. One of these serves all the gauges. The amp gauge does not need a resistor. Napa Auto Parts or the Mustang parts people carry the resistor.

PeterFord
08-02-2012 @ 8:57 AM
New Member
Posts: 125
Joined: Jan 2011
          
Thank you. I thought both senders simply have a resistor in them which, when heated, lowers each's resistance thus permitting a stronger electric flow, and moving the needle. You mentioned grounding the gauge wire. How do I do that?

Many thanks


Peter

PeterFord
08-02-2012 @ 9:01 AM
New Member
Posts: 125
Joined: Jan 2011
          
trjford8 --
I am using runtz type voltage reducers. The old ones are not grounded. Someone in the past cut off the small grounding wires. This may be my problem. I have not yet received my new voltage reducers (due here Monday) so I can;'t tell if that might be the fix.

Peter

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